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Water swamp driver side floor pan


Billy
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Hey all, I did a floor pan job about 4 months ago on my driver side which was a  typical repair with nothing out of the ordinary.  I assumed that the reason why my pedal area was so wet was because I had a flint stone hole in my floor pan.  I also live in the Pacfici Northwest so driving on wet roads plus hole equals wet floor.  After my floor pan job I took it to a place to have it pressure tested and see if they could find any leaks and the only thing they told me to do was plug up a few holes in my firewall where my wires come through, which I did.

 

Everything was good until winter hit and we had a really hard rain (Pacfic Northwest).  Went to get into my truck and had a freakin puddle on the driver side floor pan, worse than I’ve previously seen.

 

If you look closely there’s a trail of water going from the back window side to the front floor pan.  

 

I’m thinking either back window is leaking or is there a area between the cab and bed that could be leaking?

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Mine leaks at lower drivers side rear window seal...plus the windshield ...

Hey all, I did a floor pan job about 4 months ago on my driver side which was a  typical repair with nothing out of the ordinary.  I assumed that the reason why my pedal area was so wet was because I had a flint stone hole in my floor pan.  I also live in the Pacfici Northwest so driving on wet roads plus hole equals wet floor.  After my floor pan job I took it to a place to have it pressure tested and see if they could find any leaks and the only thing they told me to do was plug up a few holes in my firewall where my wires come through, which I did.
 
Everything was good until winter hit and we had a really hard rain (Pacfic Northwest).  Went to get into my truck and had a freakin puddle on the driver side floor pan, worse than I’ve previously seen.
 
If you look closely there’s a trail of water going from the back window side to the front floor pan.  
 
I’m thinking either back window is leaking or is there a area between the cab and bed that could be leaking?
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0DACA6B3-58EE-4C99-9EF6-7ACBADF94B0E.jpeg.9c87dd3c52594b337c46c45f3633e625.jpeg


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Our trucks have problems keeping the water out. Any seal is a likely leak point. Both the front and rear windshields are common leaks, as are the wiring bulkhead, antenna grommet, and the HVAC bulkheads at the blower motor and where the heater and AC lines pass through.

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Our trucks have problems keeping the water out. Any seal is a likely leak point. Both the front and rear windshields are common leaks, as are the wiring bulkhead, antenna grommet, and the HVAC bulkheads at the blower motor and where the heater and AC lines pass through.
Equals a lot of water where it shouldn't be...well said@Minuit

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2 hours ago, Minuit said:

Our trucks have problems keeping the water out. Any seal is a likely leak point. Both the front and rear windshields are common leaks, as are the wiring bulkhead, antenna grommet, and the HVAC bulkheads at the blower motor and where the heater and AC lines pass through.

 

How do you go about fixing  front or rear windshield leaks?  

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On 5/23/2013 at 5:57 AM, Pete M said:

I used baby powder to pinpoint my leaks.  the water will make tracks through it and lead back to the source. :thumbsup: one of my leaks was actually coming through the windshield, running inside the a-pillar, and behind the paneling to get to the floor. :ack:

 

 

Baby powder ftw 

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16 minutes ago, Billy said:

 

How do you go about fixing  front or rear windshield leaks?  

Before you do anything, make absolutely damn sure that you know exactly where the water is coming from. Spread some baby powder along possible leakage paths and have someone blast the truck with a hose from all directions, preferably with you inside watching.

 

The front and rear windshields are sealed in with urethane like most other car windshields. The "gasket" around it is cosmetic. The only real fix is to remove the windshield and re-install it with new urethane. There is a non-zero chance of breaking the windshield doing this, and for that reason it might be hard to find a glass person brave enough to do it.

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Well found the leak, I still need to take the seat belt trim off but I’m pretty sure it’s the top of my rear window, there’s a pretty good size gap on the exterior part.  It’s amazing how hard it is to pin point these leaks, I sat in my truck with a water hose on top for a good 10 min watching the water but I was surprised how hard it was to freakin locate the actual place the water was coming in 

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I haven't seen it recently, but I also haven't looked for it recently. 3-M or Permatex (don't recall which) used to offer a slow-cure, "flowing" grade of silicone sealant that was for the express purpose of fixing leaks like this. The idea was to close off the inside of the leak with masking tape, dribble some of the sealant into the gap from the outside, and allow it to make its way to where it needed to be before setting up.

 

Looks like it's still available: https://www.permatex.com/products/adhesives-sealants/permatex-flowable-silicone-windshield-glass-sealer/

 

It's not available in small tubes like the automotive stuff, but some of the construction sealants companies have a flowable grade of urethane sealant that might work better with the OEM urethane adhesives used with automotive glass.

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex-10-1-oz-Gray-Self-Leveling-Sealant-91065/202527281?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-202523824-_-202527281-_-N

 

 

A word to the wise: If you try the Permatex stuff, be sure to tape off the inside. I used it once to seal a leaking rear window on  a car. It seemed to need a LOT of sealant to fill what should have been a small gap. When I opened the trunk, I had a pool of silicone on the trunk floor. That stuff really flows ...

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17 hours ago, Eagle said:

I haven't seen it recently, but I also haven't looked for it recently. 3-M or Permatex (don't recall which) used to offer a slow-cure, "flowing" grade of silicone sealant that was for the express purpose of fixing leaks like this. The idea was to close off the inside of the leak with masking tape, dribble some of the sealant into the gap from the outside, and allow it to make its way to where it needed to be before setting up.

 

Looks like it's still available: https://www.permatex.com/products/adhesives-sealants/permatex-flowable-silicone-windshield-glass-sealer/

 

It's not available in small tubes like the automotive stuff, but some of the construction sealants companies have a flowable grade of urethane sealant that might work better with the OEM urethane adhesives used with automotive glass.

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex-10-1-oz-Gray-Self-Leveling-Sealant-91065/202527281?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-202523824-_-202527281-_-N

 

 

A word to the wise: If you try the Permatex stuff, be sure to tape off the inside. I used it once to seal a leaking rear window on  a car. It seemed to need a LOT of sealant to fill what should have been a small gap. When I opened the trunk, I had a pool of silicone on the trunk floor. That stuff really flows ...

 

 

I’m worried about this gap right here, if I use the permatex stuff where is it going to go?  I’m not sure if it’s factory sealant or someone gooped the top area between the gap and window, should I remove this and redo?  Also my sliding window seals are shot...defiantly have some stuff to seal up.  I was even thinking about just doing the back window job that’s in the write up list.

 

 

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6 hours ago, Billy said:

 

I’m worried about this gap right here, if I use the permatex stuff where is it going to go?  I’m not sure if it’s factory sealant or someone gooped the top area between the gap and window, should I remove this and redo?  Also my sliding window seals are shot...defiantly have some stuff to seal up.  I was even thinking about just doing the back window job that’s in the write up list.

 

 

From your photo I can't see what gap you're referring to. That said, that's a photo from the inside. You don't try to seal leaks from the inside, because that can trap water between the glass and the body and promote rusting away of the window surround flange. You need to prevent water from entering, not trap it after entering. The Permatex stuff is applied from the outside, where it flows into the space between the gasket and the body to seal out water before it can enter. It definitely isn't "goop" -- it runs almost like water, so it gets applied from the top and then flows in and down to seal areas that you could never reach with the regular grades of silicone sealant.

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16 hours ago, Eagle said:

 

From your photo I can't see what gap you're referring to. That said, that's a photo from the inside. You don't try to seal leaks from the inside, because that can trap water between the glass and the body and promote rusting away of the window surround flange. You need to prevent water from entering, not trap it after entering. The Permatex stuff is applied from the outside, where it flows into the space between the gasket and the body to seal out water before it can enter. It definitely isn't "goop" -- it runs almost like water, so it gets applied from the top and then flows in and down to seal areas that you could never reach with the regular grades of silicone sealant.

 

 

Awesome, thanks for bearing with me, never messed with automotive glass before.  I picked up some of that permatex product.  The only issue I’m running into is my back glass has metal trim around it instead of just that gasket.  Does the trim just pop off?

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9 hours ago, Billy said:

 

 

Awesome, thanks for bearing with me, never messed with automotive glass before.  I picked up some of that permatex product.  The only issue I’m running into is my back glass has metal trim around it instead of just that gasket.  Does the trim just pop off?

 

Don't know. All the factory rear windows used a gasket. Yours must be aftermarket.

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11 hours ago, Billy said:

Awesome, thanks for bearing with me, never messed with automotive glass before.  I picked up some of that permatex product.  The only issue I’m running into is my back glass has metal trim around it instead of just that gasket.  Does the trim just pop off?

 

Do you have slider?

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1 hour ago, HOrnbrod said:

 

Do you have slider?

 

Yeah I have a slider, but now I’m second guessing if it’s stock or not

 

2 hours ago, Eagle said:

 

Don't know. All the factory rear windows used a gasket. Yours must be aftermarket.

 

 

Did the stock mj come come with a 4 piece slider?  Left/right panes with 2 middle panes that slide and latch?  But I did go with the permatex idea.  Seemed like it went well but I had a heck of a time trying to do it in pouring rain.  Set up a pop up tent and dryer the area with a hair dryer, taped up the inside hole and applied from the outside.  I put a super tiny amount and watched it kind of form and flow into the hole against the tape. Checked it a hour later and it was rubbery.  Says to wait 24 hours and going to get the hose again to test it.

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10 hours ago, Eagle said:

The factory slider was 3-piece -- two sides and one sliding panel. It was only a "semi" frame 00 metal along the top and bottom, exposed glass edges on the ends.

 

Holy heck I don’t have a stock slider.  Alright now I feel a bit more at ease working on this thing.

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This afternoon i removed my windshield (in one piece but not unbroken...). Rust is not as bad as expected but rust none the less and whoever last installed this #Safelite glass didn't do a very productive job. Glass sealant heavy in some spots and too thin in others. It actually looked as if the glass wasn't touching the sealant in one spot. Weird...I will finish cleaning up the channel tomorrow and doing the rust repair. Will post pics later...

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  • 4 months later...

When I got my mj I had so much wind noise I couldn’t think. You get it up to speed on the freeway it sounded like you had the windows down. Went to dig something out from down by the windshield and the windshield moved. So come  to find out it was only attached by about 6” at The middle of the top above the rear view mirror. Had a guy come cut it out reseal it and re install and boy did that make a difference. 

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1 hour ago, 1989commanche said:

When I got my mj I had so much wind noise I couldn’t think. You get it up to speed on the freeway it sounded like you had the windows down. Went to dig something out from down by the windshield and the windshield moved. So come  to find out it was only attached by about 6” at The middle of the top above the rear view mirror. Had a guy come cut it out reseal it and re install and boy did that make a difference. 

 

 

holy crap!  :eek:  I can barely imagine losing my windshield in the highway

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