I hate auto mechanics.

[DirtyComanche]

Why must they insist on torquing a TRE by rattling it with the impact until it won't move anymore.

 

 

If you actually torque it correctly it won't spin. HELLO. And the nut won't come off because it has a cotter pin in it. HELLO. And there might be a slight chance that the average guy with a puller and a pickle fork can actually get it off in his driveway. HELLO.

 

 

And I will extend this to the troquing of SAE fittings. The correct torque is really low (maybe 15 ft-lbs AT MOST), but it seems they'd much rather get the biggest french (cresent) wrench they've got and yard on it with both hands. Accomplishing what? Crushing the flare so the fitting isn't re-usable. And maybe actually making it leak. :mad:

[Pete M]

The last time any vehicle at my house was at a shop, the idiot didn't put the grease fitting into the tierod end and it promptly died 2 months later. :headpop:

[rockhardzj]

Why must they insist on torquing a TRE by rattling it with the impact until it won't move anymore.

I have one that I can't get off the damn tie rod... had it soaking in PB Blaster for over a week and a half, and the damn thing won't budge. Nothing but a cut tie rod, and a TRE that won't come out, no sleeve or anything on it... It's a good TRE too, if I can get it off that is, being the reason I'm trying to save it.

 

On another note, I do a quick zip n with those castle nuts with the impact set at level 1 power, then crank it ever so slightly more, if needed by hand so the cotter pin can go through. Maybe about 35ftlbs, if that...

[86FUBAR]

dirty i take personal ofence to that coment

 

 

 

 

 

 

na I'm kidn but iv never herd any mechanic or the like that i know of that runs those nuts down with a gun , thats :nuts:

i always use a wrench

[DirtyComanche]

No offense to the guys who actually do it right. But it seems a lot of them are lazy and figure it just zips back on with the gun, and you might as well rattle it for a minute so you know it won't come off.

 

 

I f'd over my pulled and the TRE trying to get it out.

[86FUBAR]

iv never even used a TRE puller nor do i own one i always just smack the knuckle with a BFH and it pops out , never had one NOT come off , thats a new fer me . i do however own a couple pickel forks but try not to use them because they tend to mess up the TRE boot

[DirtyComanche]

Yeah, I always smack it first. Tried a ball pein, nope. Small sledge, nope. Did a quick check with the pickle fork to see if it would work without messing up the grease boot. Didn't look like it. Figured I'd try a pulled for something completely different. Nope. Started wailing with the pickle fork. Got PO'd and went back inside.

 

 

I'll get it off tomorrow.

[86FUBAR]

some times il cram the pickel fork in and then hit it , seems to do the job

[Eagle]

TRE boots are cheap. They're in the HELP! section at Pep Boys and Auto Zone.

[tjbliley]

Take the castlenut off. replace with a regular nut and run it down to the level of the stud. Smack the piss out of it with a 3lb fist maul or hammer. it should unseat and the threads should still be ok. most important is to have the sacrificial nut perfectly flat with the top of the stud.

[DirtyComanche]

Would be nice if I did. But these TREs are metric, I think. Stupid chyrsler. I couldn't get it off with the pickle fork actually, and had to revert to the puller with the correct castle nut on upside down. In the end I destroyed the grease boot and mashed some of the unimportant threads. Oh, and when it let go it made a very audible bang....

 

 

Then after pulling the P/S box and tearing down the input side of it, I learned why I hate parts stores. The sold me the wrong seals for it. So, now I get to put it back together with the wrong seals and attempt to get a refund for the seals I bought, and attempt to get the right seals. And hope it doesn't just geyser P/S fluid when I go to drive it. Since I just replaced the pump and at the price they are I'd really not like to do it again.

[TNT]

You don't hit the TRE with a hammer... Hit the end of the knuckle where the TRE taper goes threw. It will pop out after a few blows. It helps if someone is prying down slightly on the TRE if that is not working.

 

I use a 32 ounce ballpeen hammer and have never found one I couldn't get out.

 

I just did mine 3 days ago with 2 swings each.

[aemsee]

Tread lightly there dirty! Unfortunately I tend to agree with you even after 25 yrs of wrenching for a living. Try using two hammers and hitting both sides of the knuckle at the same time where the TRE goes through. Sometimes the force will drive the TRE the direction of the taper. Good luck

[opsled]

You don't hit the TRE with a hammer... Hit the end of the knuckle where the TRE taper goes threw. It will pop out after a few blows. It helps if someone is prying down slightly on the TRE if that is not working.

 

I use a 32 ounce ballpeen hammer and have never found one I couldn't get out.

 

I just did mine 3 days ago with 2 swings each.

 

EXACTLY!!! Listen to him and TRE's will be EASY!!! Works every time if done right. Pickle forks and TRE pullers are a waste of time and money. You can knock out 10 tie rods with a hammer to every 1 you do with a fork or puller. If you can't get a good swing with a hammer use an air chissel with a blunt end on it.

 

opsled