Known issues? (I think '88)

[KatahGii]

My friends mom's new husband. (Yes lol.) Has an old Comanche sitting behind his barn. It hasn't been driven in years and I was told it overheats before it makes it to the front of the house. So I plan on replacing the water pump (and the fan clutch while I'm in there.) But I'll need to drive it 1,000 miles from Indiana to Georgia. Are there any known issues that I need to know about before I go in for it. I think it's a good deal I was told $1,000 for it. 

[Green Mesa XJ]

I don’t know about driving it 1000 miles right off. It’s old and it’s been sitting you are going to have problems of some sort.

Is it a 4cyl ?




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[Eagle]

Looks like a 4-cylinder, and it probably needs both a water pump and a radiator. That's a solid looking truck, but it's not worth $1,000 unless it's running right.

[Jeep Driver]

It's an 86 not an 88

[HOrnbrod]

What's the mileage? Any idea how many owners?

[KatahGii]

27 minutes ago, HOrnbrod said:

What's the mileage? Any idea how many owners?

I don't know the milage for sure. I think it's around 175k though. If I heard correctly it has been in the family it's whole life.

[KatahGii]

1 hour ago, Eagle said:

Looks like a 4-cylinder, and it probably needs both a water pump and a radiator. That's a solid looking truck, but it's not worth $1,000 unless it's running right.

I was told it ran fine the reason they quit driving it was because they didn't want to put in the time to fix the over heating issue and didn't want to pay for new tires. I'm not all too worried about price I'm 19 and it would be MY first vehicle. When I still lived in Indiana I sat in it and as a 6'1" person fitting perfectly in a vehicle is kinda odd for me. I kinda just fell in love with Comanches after that. I've looked on Craigslist and other places and couldn't really find one less than $1,500ish. Also I'd hate to let it sit there and rot anymore than it already has.

[KatahGii]

59 minutes ago, Jeep Driver said:

It's an 86 not an 88

Thanks I wasn't sure and neither is the owner they said they think it's '88. Just for future reference how can you tell? I'm new to the Comanche community.

[KatahGii]

1 hour ago, Green Mesa XJ said:

I don’t know about driving it 1000 miles right off. It’s old and it’s been sitting you are going to have problems of some sort.

Is it a 4cyl ?




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I think it's a 4 cylinder

[Jeep Driver]

9 minutes ago, KatahGii said:

Thanks I wasn't sure and neither is the owner they said they think it's '88. Just for future reference how can you tell? I'm new to the Comanche community.

The interior color is a giveaway

It doesn't have C 101 connection above the master cylinder

What I could not see is the hood latch will be in the center of an 86 all other years have two Hood latches one on each side of the hood

[Green Mesa XJ]

Being a 86 it’s s early Renix, could have some electrical gremlins. Nothing that can’t be sorted. Be just keep in mind that being 32 years old and neglected it will need some TLC . Check the hoses and clean the grounds.
It’s a good engine but under underpowered. Looks like a 5 speed so that’ll be a ax5, decent transmission in my experience.
Radiator is a simple basic design , easy to pull. Might be more difficult to find than it used to be just be sure it a all metal design not the plastic tank Chinese version they are trying to sell now.



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[Eagle]

Does it start and move? If so, there's at least a possibility that the clutch is good.

 

Quote

Also I'd hate to let it sit there and rot anymore than it already has.

 

I can't argue with that. (See my signature.  )

[KatahGii]

38 minutes ago, Green Mesa XJ said:

Being a 86 it’s s early Renix, could have some electrical gremlins. Nothing that can’t be sorted. Be just keep in mind that being 32 years old and neglected it will need some TLC . Check the hoses and clean the grounds.
It’s a good engine but under underpowered. Looks like a 5 speed so that’ll be a ax5, decent transmission in my experience.
Radiator is a simple basic design , easy to pull. Might be more difficult to find than it used to be just be sure it a all metal design not the plastic tank Chinese version they are trying to sell now.



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Thanks for the tips. I was getting it as a first vehicle as well as a project vehicle. I want to lift it a bit for do some dirt/sand off roading but still good on the street.

[KatahGii]

2 minutes ago, Eagle said:

Does it start and move? If so, there's at least a possibility that the clutch is good.

 

 

I can't argue with that. (See my signature.  )

To be honest the first and last time I saw it was last October and the owner couldn't find the keys so I genuinely don't know. I'm not going up to Indiana just for the truck it's just another perk of going (going to see brother and nieces) but that is something I'd make sure works if it doesnt then I'm not interested. 

[Eagle]

Again, see my signature. I agree with you that it would be a shame to see what appears to be a complete, original, and fairly solid truck just rot away from misuse. I'd love to see you get it and, preserve it, and restore it. That doesn't mean I want you to get robbed. If the owner is the original owner, the truck doesn't owe him anything. He didn't want to spend the money to fix the overheating problem or buy new tires, but someone has to fix those things to drive it. In terms of what it's worth, don't go by what people are asking for Comanches on Craig's list or Auto Broker. Look at average selling prices for other 32-year old mini-pickups with high mileage, and not in running condition. If the owner is a fair and honest person, he should recognize that if he gave it to you, you'd be doing him a favor by getting it out of his yard. IMHO, if the underside isn't completely rusted out that's a $500 truck, at best. In fact, about 15 years ago I bought an '88 4-cylinder Comanche and drove it home from Rhode Island to Connecticut. I paid ... $500 for it, that was fifteen years ago, and the one you're looking at is two years older.

 

The one I bought was rough but solid, and it's a base model. The one you're looking at is a higher trim level, as shown by the 3-spoke steering wheel and the wheel trim rings. So let's say it could be worth $1,000 in good, running condition. Right now, it's not running. At a guess, just to put it on the road it needs a radiator, a water pump, and the brake drums and rotors are probably rusted so badly they're beyond hope. The rear drums might have enough material left to be turned but, at 175,000 miles, I doubt it. The front rotors aren't worth trying to turn, so they'll need to be replaced.

 

So you're into it for a radiator, a water pump, a brake job, and who knows what else. The cost of those things has to be factored against what a fair price would be if it ran well and reliably. And that's just to get it running and driving so you can find out what else is wrong with it. I would love to see you buy it and bring it back from the dead, and we're here to help you, but go into it with your eyes (and your checkbook) open. It's 32 years old -- it's going to need a lot of TLC. Don't for a minute think you're just going to fill up the tank and have a daily driver. If the owner is married to the mother of a friend, I would be very disappointed if he holds out for $1,000 for that truck. That's just not a reasonable price.

 

[Green Mesa XJ]

Eagle is right on. I tell people who are tempted by a car/project to go in expecting the worst case far as expense is concerned to make it a daily driver.

I get the excitement and I’d give in too often if the body is solid, but I also go in thinking waterpump, thermostat, radiator, hoses, clutch slave and master, break booster + master cylinder and front and back brakes possibly engine if they cooked the old one.

I you go in with this kind of mind set you’ve got a grasp on the work keeping the current owners from using it and what you’ll need to over come.

It it were me , I’d offer $500 to tow it away telling them I plan on fixing it and the rest of their asking price is going for parts.

 

But but this may be the car for you and a price you can afford.

 

 

 

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[gogmorgo]

I'll add my bit. 

Three weeks or so ago I picked up a second MJ. For how solid the body was, it seemed to be a steal. Seller said it ran ok but had an overheating problem. I looked at it in person and it was in as good shape as anticipate. I quickly diagnosed the overheating issue as almost no coolant and a radiator so corroded I could shove my fingers through in. No bigs, it sounded okay, could maybe use a tuneup. 

Between running around dealing with UHaul, etc (nothing ever seems simple there), it was about a 900 mile trip all told, 500 miles empty, 200 miles empty trailer, 200 miles loaded trailer. Although that comes down to my complete $#!&show luck with UHaul so far. I put a new rad, water pump, and tstat in it, all new ignition parts. Drove it to the gas station six blocks away and it was boiling over before I was even halfway. It didn't make it all the way back. I pulled the dipstick and what dripped off was more like the colour and consistency of almond milk than oil. Head gasket must be bad. I check compression, and I get 65, 90, 100, 25 psi. I pull the head to change the gasket, and find not only a bad gasket but also a hole in piston #4.

With parts and the tow home I'm now into this thing double what I paid, and I can't drive it without either swapping out or rebuilding the engine. 

 

So as others are saying, I'd say it's worth looking into, but there's no guarantee it's going to be a quick and easy fix, so don't go into it expecting it to be. 

 

On the flip side, a few years back I picked up an XJ for the same price, drove it 45 minutes home to my parents', and pretty much abandonned it in their driveway for a couple years, until this winter when I plugged the block heater in for a couple hours, put a new battery in it, then drove it about 300 miles to pick up a trailer and load it up with my parts horde, and then hit the highway for a further 1000 mile jaunt with the ~3000lb trailer. All of this below -30°F, plus whatever the hell the wind was at across the Canadian prairies. I did have to change the alternator along the way, but that was it, and in hindsight it may only have been burnt out because of poor battery terminals.

 

 So the moral is you don't really know what you're dealing with until you start dealing with it. 

 

I say go for it. But if you can get the owner to let you try to get it running before you buy it, that's even better. It will definitely be a learning experience, but learning is a great thing. 

Almost everything you'd need to know is available on this site, and definitely don't be afraid to ask for help if you can't find an answer yourself. There are a bunch of people on here who know way more about your truck already than most people would probably want to, and they're pretty good about sharing that info, so long as you pay attention to what they're telling you. 

[Jeep Driver]

15 years ago- We paid $1.69 for a loaf of bread, that same loaf of bread now costs $3.18. 

 

Demand, inventory, value of the dollar, thriving economy, seller's attitude........it's all relevant. What is not relevant is what someone did 15 years ago. 

 

 

 

OP, there is a 99% chance that truck will never make the trip on it's own, be prepared. 

I'd never drag a northern vehicle to the south anyway. 

 

Find something in your area and save yourself the aggravation. 

[Eagle]

2 hours ago, Jeep Driver said:

15 years ago- We paid $1.69 for a loaf of bread, that same loaf of bread now costs $3.18. 

 

Demand, inventory, value of the dollar, thriving economy, seller's attitude........it's all relevant. What is not relevant is what someone did 15 years ago. 

 

 

You're talking the price of a new loaf of bread compared to the price of a new loaf of bread. My first new car cost $2,500 out the door. A comparable new car today would cost around $30,000. That's what's irrelevant. What is relevant is that a 32-year old vehicle that's not running isn't a $1,000 vehicle unless it's something that has achieved collector status. As much as I like Comanches, they haven't gotten there yet. If they had, people wouldn't be buying old MJs, lifting them, and dropping small-block Chevy engines in them -- they'd be restoring them (which is what I wish they'd do with all MJs, but that's another story). If you go to an on-line inflation calculator, that $500 I paid fifteen years ago is worth $682 today. But ... the truck isn't. Fifteen years ago, a 1988 MJ was a fifteen year old vehicle. Today, a 1986 MJ is a 32-year old vehicle. How much would you pay for a loaf of 15- or 32-year old bread?

 

There are some old cars you can buy, put $20,000 into restoring, and sell for $40,000 or $50,000 or more. If you put $20,000 into restoring an MJ, unless you got VERY lucky you could never sell it for that.

 

What I did fifteen years ago is relevant, because it illustrates the problems that can be encountered. That 4-banger I bought for $500 fifteen years ago was about 125 miles from home. It made it 100 miles on the trip home when the clutch slave cylinder ruptured. I drove it the last 25 miles with no clutch.

 

You can't count on doing that for 1,000 miles. If KatahGii does buy this MJ, he should figure on renting a U-Haul truck and a car trailer, and hauling it home that way. He should then figure on going through it, front to back, before considering it a daily driver. Radiator, water pump, thermostat, tires, brakes, probably all brake lines, fuel pump, new fuel injector, battery, u-joints, exhaust. It adds up quickly.

 

Of course the seller's attitude affects what the seller is willing to take for the vehicle, but that doesn't affect what the vehicle is worth. You have to approach all such deals with your limit in mind. If the seller insists on a price that's double what the right price should be, you just have to be prepared to walk away from the deal. I'm not sure what his goal is, but at any price a 32-year old MJ that has been sitting for a number of years because the owner didn't feel like repairing known issues is not a daily driver. It's a project. He can't assume, or even hope, that he'll throw a battery and a radiator into it and have a reliable vehicle he can drive every day, anywhere, any time.

[gogmorgo]

39 minutes ago, Eagle said:

He can't assume, or even hope, that he'll throw a battery and a radiator into it and have a reliable vehicle he can drive every day, anywhere, any time.

The price of what would now be a 32-year-old loaf of compost aside, or what a truck was worth 15 years ago, this is exactly what I did less than a month ago, and I'm exactly nowhere closer to having a driver. I had entertained the idea of catching a ride and just driving it home, but a quick reality check had me renting a UHaul, as suggested. And had I not, there's no way in hell I would've made it out of Calgary with it, let alone the rest of the way home over 200-some miles of steep mountain roads. (I'd also suggest looking into borrowing a truck to do the towing, UHaul box trucks are kinda pricey to rent and feed gas into. Use UHaul's online rental estimator to make sure they'll let you tow with the truck. Trailer is better than a dolly for unknown suspension or tires that have been sitting.)

But yeah. After fixing the obvious issues, and say I get the engine rebuilt/swapped, I still have the sketchy as hell brakes to address, the windshield is cracked, I haven't really had it running enough to make sure all the electrical works... etc etc etc. And this one's been sitting in a suburban driveway, not out in a field, and for supposedly only since winter, not for a number of years. 

 

As romantic as the prospect of getting it running and hitting the road, the reality of working on it away from home base makes things difficult. Inexperience with the platform and wrenching in general is going to make it even more difficult. And the worse reality, getting stuck somewhere in between without a safe temporary storage solution or somewhere you can fix a problem, and especially a need to urgently be somewhere else, will get expensive in a hurry.

If you do go for it, plan to either have all the serious kinks out before hitting the road (this will generally need a couple weeks, even I wouldn't be foolhardy enough to try it over a weekend that would also include 2000 miles round-trip) or else plan on trailering it.

It's also not just you and the truck to be concerned about. If you experience a catastrophic failure of some kind, brakes, steering, suspension, etc., that results in a loss of control, you're jeopardizing the safety of all other road users too.

[Green Mesa XJ]

On the road that 2.5 is going feel gutless even running @ 100%. When I got my v6 2.8 XJ it was in a mountain town not being able to keep with traffic up a steep hill was a eye opener.
Only good thing is that mj has the manual transmission and probably 4.10 gearing




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[AZJeff]

18 hours ago, Green Mesa XJ said:

Eagle is right on. I tell people who are tempted by a car/project to go in expecting the worst case far as expense is concerned to make it a daily driver.

I get the excitement and I’d give in too often if the body is solid, but I also go in thinking waterpump, thermostat, radiator, hoses, clutch slave and master, break booster + master cylinder and front and back brakes possibly engine if they cooked the old one.

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Amen to all of this.  I bought a Comanche as a "project vehicle" for my retirement.  I had owned several XJ's, but I always wanted a Comanche.  Because of my XJ experience, I realized that a 30 year old vehicle is going to be in need of more than "just a little work" and I was mentally prepared in advance.

 

I paid $6k for my MJ, which had new paint, a new(er) engine, a well-done lift, bed liner, and other well-done stuff.  It was a pretty nice vehicle for being a 1989 model.  In spite of that, I have dumped several thousand bucks into the machine redoing the brakes, redoing some electrical stuff, fixing some lubricant leaks, etc.   And I have yet to tackle the need for new seats, carpet, and headliner. 

 

Now I am kind of picky about how my vehicle looks and operates, so my costs to repair/upgrade my MJ are probably higher than most owners would see, and I willing admit that others could be happy spending less to fix some issues I have enountered.

 

The point is that any MJ that has been sitting around unused (off the road) for any length of time will need a thorough inspection and test drive(s) before taking the plunge to accomplish a long road trip.  Nothing would suck more than to be 500 miles from home, on the side of the road, with a vehicle that needs a major repair to continue the journey.

 

 

[Jeep Driver]

8 hours ago, Eagle said:

 

You're talking the price of a new loaf of bread compared to the price of a new loaf of bread. My first new car cost $2,500 out the door. A comparable new car today would cost around $30,000. That's what's irrelevant. What is relevant is that a 32-year old vehicle that's not running isn't a $1,000 vehicle unless it's something that has achieved collector status. As much as I like Comanches, they haven't gotten there yet. If they had, people wouldn't be buying old MJs, lifting them, and dropping small-block Chevy engines in them -- they'd be restoring them (which is what I wish they'd do with all MJs, but that's another story). If you go to an on-line inflation calculator, that $500 I paid fifteen years ago is worth $682 today. But ... the truck isn't. Fifteen years ago, a 1988 MJ was a fifteen year old vehicle. Today, a 1986 MJ is a 32-year old vehicle. How much would you pay for a loaf of 15- or 32-year old bread?

 

There are some old cars you can buy, put $20,000 into restoring, and sell for $40,000 or $50,000 or more. If you put $20,000 into restoring an MJ, unless you got VERY lucky you could never sell it for that.

 

What I did fifteen years ago is relevant, because it illustrates the problems that can be encountered. That 4-banger I bought for $500 fifteen years ago was about 125 miles from home. It made it 100 miles on the trip home when the clutch slave cylinder ruptured. I drove it the last 25 miles with no clutch.

 

You can't count on doing that for 1,000 miles. If KatahGii does buy this MJ, he should figure on renting a U-Haul truck and a car trailer, and hauling it home that way. He should then figure on going through it, front to back, before considering it a daily driver. Radiator, water pump, thermostat, tires, brakes, probably all brake lines, fuel pump, new fuel injector, battery, u-joints, exhaust. It adds up quickly.

 

Of course the seller's attitude affects what the seller is willing to take for the vehicle, but that doesn't affect what the vehicle is worth. You have to approach all such deals with your limit in mind. If the seller insists on a price that's double what the right price should be, you just have to be prepared to walk away from the deal. I'm not sure what his goal is, but at any price a 32-year old MJ that has been sitting for a number of years because the owner didn't feel like repairing known issues is not a daily driver. It's a project. He can't assume, or even hope, that he'll throw a battery and a radiator into it and have a reliable vehicle he can drive every day, anywhere, any time.

 

 

There's no point in debating what makes a free market economy, that said-

 

I paid $2500 for mine, I cannot buy mine again for under $3500. 

I paid for rust-free, relatively straight, running. 

 

It's not up to me or you to determine the value of anything, buyers and sellers determine value. 

You say that truck is worth $500, yet someone will be more than willing to pay $500 for a straight and rust-free bed, the box alone will be worth more than $500 if a buyer can find one. 

Tail lights, stock tail lights, NOS ain't worth $.50 to me but to someone else they are worth $500, someone has paid $500. It's not up to me to determine what tail lights are worth, it's up to someone with strong desire for them to determine if they are worth $500. 

 

Would I pay $1000 for a straight rust-free carcass? just the cab and box, no engine, no trans, just the carcass??? You bet, like yesterday, hell, keep the axles even. And in retrospect, that exactly how I'd approach a new project today, live and learn. 

 

What has value to me may have no value to you, it's value that determines price. 

[DirtyComanche]

I'd get the little hydrocarbon coolant tester thingy to determine if the head gasket is shot or the head is cracked.  Get somebody that is there to do it for you preferably, if you can trust them to do it.

 

If it passes that, order a radiator/cap, hoses, water pump, tstat, air filter and oil filter off Rockauto, all to their address.  Show up with oil, coolant, brake fluid, lots of water, more water, some tools, salty and sugary snacks, 3 changes of underwear, a sleeping bag, towel (do NOT forget a towel), and a roll of duct tape to fix that intake hose again.

 

The truck will make it.  Have faith and don't listen to all the Debbie Downers in this thread.  Worst case you've got your towel, snacks, and a couple changes of underwear, you don't need more than that to hitchhike home, or across the universe for that matter.

[Jeep Driver]

2 hours ago, DirtyComanche said:

I'd get the little hydrocarbon coolant tester thingy to determine if the head gasket is shot or the head is cracked.  Get somebody that is there to do it for you preferably, if you can trust them to do it.

 

If it passes that, order a radiator/cap, hoses, water pump, tstat, air filter and oil filter off Rockauto, all to their address.  Show up with oil, coolant, brake fluid, lots of water, more water, some tools, salty and sugary snacks, 3 changes of underwear, a sleeping bag, towel (do NOT forget a towel), and a roll of duct tape to fix that intake hose again.

 

The truck will make it.  Have faith and don't listen to all the Debbie Downers in this thread.  Worst case you've got your towel, snacks, and a couple changes of underwear, you don't need more than that to hitchhike home, or across the universe for that matter.

You can't be more creative than that?

 

 

There are a few nice trucks close to home for $3-4K that he can drive home with no drama, no reason to be a burden on anyone else. 

 

That northern rust bucket will cost him every penny of that by the he gets it home. 

 

Uhaul truck and tow dolly cost me $1300 plus fuel, Tampa to Knoxville, that was 10 years ago. Or he's gotta find a buddy with truck and trailer to come drag him home. 

 

Or course, I give the opposing POV. 

 

Hell, according to Eagle it ain't worth $500, if it ain't worth that it ain't worth dragging 1000 miles.