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Dzimm

92 Turbo, Autocross MJ

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6 minutes ago, Comanchejager said:

You have a nice project going on there D. Glad you got the window in without any problems.

Thanks! :comanche:

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Finally got the time to do more rust repair on the bed.  I cut out the entire top of the wheel well and then cut the inner wheel well out as well.  

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I used a piece of the washer sheet metal to make the inner wheel well piece and sprayed it down really good with rust reformer and preventive sprays. 

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I used a spare front fender I had laying around for the wheel arch.  It is very close to the same arch as the MJ rear, just curved a little more sharply in the rear and slightly narrower vertical face.  I also only have to drill two holes for the flares since the others line up perfectly. 

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I still need to get some new flap disks to smooth out the welds and throw on some body filler to get it as even as I can.  My next task is to figure out how I'm gonna deal with this spray foam mess in the rockers and cab corners... I hear this stuff is pretty flamable.. 

IMAG1415.jpg.af7dbeadea81ad47d2e1005cbccd5dc1.jpg

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13 hours ago, gogmorgo said:

Where'd you get the idea for the fenders? That really is a surprisingly close match that I don't know I ever would have thought of.

I was just thinking of ways to repair it and I knew finding an MJ one would be hard.  I had a spare set of fenders from my 97+ swap so I held it up and it was close so I went for it.  

 

It's definitely a different curve but it's close enough that once the flare is on, you wouldn't be able to tell at all. 

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The diff has been leaking since I bought the truck so I figured I'd go ahead and clean it out, replace the leaking rtv with a Gasket, and fill with new fluid.  All went well there and the gears are in good shape. 

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I was looking around at the rear brake setup because it's leaking and I plan on removing the rear prop. valve and replace the brake lines.  I have a mid 90s XJ brake booster and MC in the parts pile and I just bought an XJ distribution block off ebay that I will install.  Should greatly improve the brakes.  

 

OH yeah, I found the brake fluid leak... :doh:

How I didn't see this when replacing the fuel filter, I don't know. IMAG1435.jpg.3a1105fef9ebfa3bcb8bf68240fb2f94.jpg

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I've been working on the brakes today and stopped for lunch so I figured I'd post where I'm at.  

 

I've got all the brake lines ripped out.  Everything broke of course.  I didn't even bother trying to use wrenches, I just went straight for the vise grips and still managed to round a fitting off.  Had to use a cutoff wheel to grind it back flat for another try.  This is what a pile of factory MJ lines looks like after years of road salt.  

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A little trick I found to remove the lines from the distribution block is to use a 19mm wrench to hold it. 

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I am happy that I don't have to modify the brake booster because the truck has the newer brake switch.  Everything I've read said all Comanches needed to have the flat spot added to the booster but my 92 had the newer style brake switch pictured below (maybe HOs have this new switch?).  This required no modification to the booster, I just had to take the aluminum spacer off the mounts. 

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Currently I got the booster/master removed, all old lines removed, load sensing valve removed, and the new front brake lines ran.  After lunch I'll install the rear lines and the new booster/master. 

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Good work getting it all out.  I have been down that road on a couple vehicles (removing super crusty brake lines).  I have a trick for you that makes it easy.  Cut the brake line flush/close to the flare nut, can use a pair of dikes.  Then you can put a six point socket on the flare nut to take it out.  Bonus - you can ratchet it out.

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1 hour ago, bad_idea said:

Good work getting it all out.  I have been down that road on a couple vehicles (removing super crusty brake lines).  I have a trick for you that makes it easy.  Cut the brake line flush/close to the flare nut, can use a pair of dikes.  Then you can put a six point socket on the flare nut to take it out.  Bonus - you can ratchet it out.

That is a good tip.  I actually ended up using a socket to break the bleeder screws loose. 

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Finally done!  Has a new booster and distribution block from a late model XJ, as well as all brand new Copper/Nickel brake lines.   Took all day but man was it worth it, brakes are now fantastic and lock up at low speed on wet pavement.  It's dark and raining so I'm not going to go do a full test drive until tomorrow but so far so good.

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The bleeding process was a one man show since nobody could lend a hand :fistshake2:  I made a one man bleeder setup with an old power steering fluid bottle, a clear hose from a gear oil bottle, and some vacuum line I had laying around to adapt everything to the right sizes.   Not the best way to bleed brakes but worked well enough.  

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There were only two problems I encountered for the whole project.  One was a bad flare on the underside of the distribution block, which sucked to cut and reflare down between the booster and intake manifold.  The other was the front driver bleeder screw won't budge at all, even with vise grips.  I bled it the best I could through the brake line fitting for now but I sprayed it with some pb blaster to hopefully get it out.  I'll spray it a few times over the next few days then pull the wheel off and try again.   Worst case cenario, I get a new set of front brakes and calipers.  

 

Anyone else looking to replace their brake lines, this is a nice kit and was one of the cheapest I could find that was copper/nickle.  The 25ft roll of line is just enough to do an MJ if you remove the rear load sensing valve.  If you retain the valve, you'll need another 10-15ft.  I ended up with a handful of fittings left over and about 3" of brake line.  

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01801G45A/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_WcxSBb8A5TG1C

I also bought these rubber clamps but ended up only needing one since all the factory mounts were in good shape. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZQ7EE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_iixSBbVHYHT9T

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Well I went for a longer test drive this morning.  As I drove the pedal kept getting harder and the truck started to struggle to accelerate.  I got it home and the front brakes were billowing smoke...  Did some googling and came to the conclusion it was a problem with the master cylinder.  

 

I pulled it all apart and rebled the master, then all 4 wheels.  I'm guessing when I had the leaking connection at the distribution block, it sucked some air into the master or something.  

 

Couple hours later, I got it all put back together and did a really good, long test drive.  I was really hard on the brakes and everything is working now.  Pedal is much better and no more problems. 

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I had some time before work so I did most of the ground refreshing steps from Cruiser's tips.  The only things I have left to do are add the extra ground cables and do the ground under the dash. 

 

When doing the taillight ground I found at some point the taillight got the old 3" construction screw treatment.  The two inner holes have screws with the wrong thread busted off in them so I need to get new clips.  Currently there is a 3" screw running between the clip and plastic to hold the light on.  The outer holes were in good shape but only had one factory screw.  

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I went ahead and installed a DIY tailgate lock to deter theft and replaced the old ball style wiper arms with some newer u-clip style arms from a 98 XJ that had a good pair of beam wiper blades on them. 

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What kind of tailgate lock did you go with? I was looking into getting one, but wasn’t sure what would work/fit well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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3 hours ago, SatiricalHen said:

What kind of tailgate lock did you go with? I was looking into getting one, but wasn’t sure what would work/fit well.


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A simple hose clamp.  Just turn it in an awkward way so it's damn hard to get off.  Best tailgate lock we've all got laying around the garage. 

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After thinking my brake issues were fixed I continued driving the truck to work over the last couple weeks and still had some strange things happening.  

 

The rotors ended up being warped from the brakes locking up after the first round of brake work.  Well at first it only seemed to be affecting braking so I knew I needed new brakes but not necessarily immediately.  But the first time I drove it to work I started to get a really bad shimmy in the front end about 10 mins into my drive that would either go away on its own, or go away after I pulled over and took off again.  I figured the shimmy had to be due to the warped brakes so I ordered new rotors/hubs, pads, calipers, bearings and seals, and soft lines for the front. 

 

When the parts arrived I got the work done over last weekend. 

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Started by tearing everything apart and found the drivers side spindle had some wear in it. 

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This will get replaced eventually but it's gonna have to do for now since I had to do way more brake work than I had anticipated.  I also found that rotor to be cracked. 

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First step of install was to swap over to the new calipers and hoses.  I attached the hose to the caliper while it was on the bench then attached the hose to the truck.  

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Packed the bearings with grease and got them in the hub and tapped the new outer seal into place. 

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After the rotor/hub has greased bearings and rear seal I slid it onto the spindle, put on the new thrust washer, new nut torqued properly thanks to HOrnbrod and his FSM, new nut retainer, and new cotter pin.  

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Replaced dust cover, installed new pads and retainers, and bolted up the calipers. 

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Bled brakes and reinstalled the wheels and all seemed well.  Did a long test drive and everything seemed fine until I drove to work a couple days later... 

10 mins into my drive I started to lose speed for seemingly no reason.  Down shifted to fourth and I was able to accelerate back up to 70mph and shifted back to 5th and had no issues the rest of the drive.  

 

This happened every day after 10 mins of driving down the highway.  Fast forward to yesterday when I finally had the ah-ha moment.  The booster and master the I used were the ones that came in the blue truck when I bought it.  I never took the master off the booster because I assumed it was a matched pair from the factory.  I was wrong and found the push rod to be too long and not allowing the master to return completely causing brake drag.

 

Since the push rod is recessed inside the booster it's kind of a pain to adjust but with a small socket and long needle nose pliers it can be done.  Grip the shaft with the pliers and use the socket on the end of the push rod.  After some trial and error I found that 3 threads shorter than what it was at was perfect.  I didn't use any special tools, I just pushed the master on and felt for engagement between the master and push rod. 

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The pedal feels so much nicer now and after a trip to work I had no issues.  Finally!! 

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