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been pouring over past posts on door weatherstrip to see if their was a general consensus on which vendor had the best product. and it seems that the replacements tend to be that they don't seal that well, especially at the top of the door. the vendors that include width measurements all seem to indicate 7/8" overall width. it would seem the originals were about 1" or slightly wider.

mine are original and they're at least 1" in width and they're 30 years old. has anyone found a good vendor to that has had good success with issue, or has anyone used original mopar W/S, is it wider? I've been to many of the web sites and it seems inconclusive and there's only about 4 different W/S makers. crown, Fairchild, omix-ada, and maybe one other. 

 

  door_weatherstrip.jpg.83ac1b785c438bcccd05e5fdf2edfaaa.jpg

 

my doors hinges are tight with no sag and the body lines are good

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The Fairchild stuff on Rockauto is listed as being 152"x1.03"x.85".

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1777322&cc=1179996&jsn=1822

 

I haven't bought it but I don't see why it wouldn't be correct. :dunno:

 

They also have a kit (2 pieces) that saves a little money.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3385443&cc=1179996&jsn=1825

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I bought and installed the kit referenced by DirtyComanche. It works, but it appears smaller than the original seals. Adjusting the drivers door (and cleaning up the sag) took care of the gap I had at the top rear.

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18 hours ago, DirtyComanche said:

The Fairchild stuff on Rockauto is listed as being 152"x1.03"x.85".

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1777322&cc=1179996&jsn=1822

 

I haven't bought it but I don't see why it wouldn't be correct. :dunno:

 

They also have a kit (2 pieces) that saves a little money.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3385443&cc=1179996&jsn=1825

 

11 hours ago, SVPete said:

I bought and installed the kit referenced by DirtyComanche. It works, but it appears smaller than the original seals. Adjusting the drivers door (and cleaning up the sag) took care of the gap I had at the top rear.

appreciate the input guys. what are the differences between pre-97 and post-97 W/S.

Pete, what do you mean by "adjusting the doors" ?

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3 minutes ago, a bum with money said:

appreciate the input guys. what are the differences between pre-97 and post-97 W/S.

 

When I installed mine, the 97+ strips looked like a slightly different rubber compound and was a bit longer than my originals. They worked great for me.

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41 minutes ago, HOrnbrod said:

 

When I installed mine, the 97+ strips looked like a slightly different rubber compound and was a bit longer than my originals. They worked great for me.

 

good to now. my neighbor has a 98 xj, I'm going to look at his when I get a chance. what are your opinion on oem W/S from mopar? besides the price. 

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3 minutes ago, a bum with money said:

good to now. my neighbor has a 98 xj, I'm going to look at his when I get a chance. what are your opinion on oem W/S from mopar? besides the price. 

 

If still available, I always use OEM Mopar parts for everything. As for the door weatherstrips, I pulled them off a fairly new wrecked XJ in a junkyard several years ago.

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I pulled mine from a late model Grand Cherokee.  The door opening shapes are very similar and the weatherstrip is wider.  It’s a little longer so you just cut to fit at the bottom.  Fit is good starting at the “kick on the froward door jamb and working around.  Sealed my MJ up well.

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14 hours ago, a bum with money said:

 

appreciate the input guys. what are the differences between pre-97 and post-97 W/S.

Pete, what do you mean by "adjusting the doors" ?

Loosening the hinge bolts on the door (three on both the top and bottom hinge) and tilting the door inward or outward. Slipping in another spacer (you can make one out of some thin sheet metal also) on the bottom hinge can also help kick the door up to give some relief to the driver's door sag that we can have.

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9 hours ago, SVPete said:

Loosening the hinge bolts on the door (three on both the top and bottom hinge) and tilting the door inward or outward. Slipping in another spacer (you can make one out of some thin sheet metal also) on the bottom hinge can also help kick the door up to give some relief to the driver's door sag that we can have.

 

I've used to use that trick on interior doors too, never thought of that for car doors. I used to watch my dad tweak car doors with the ole " 2x4 in the door jamb adj " and it worked most of the time too. I had another thought, and that would be to shim the outside of the flange somehow  that the W/S fits over in needed sections or the whole thing. the idea would be to force it toward the door.

 

orrrr...……………….

 

12 hours ago, Keyav8r said:

I pulled mine from a late model Grand Cherokee.  The door opening shapes are very similar and the weatherstrip is wider.  It’s a little longer so you just cut to fit at the bottom.  Fit is good starting at the “kick on the forward door jamb and working around.  Sealed my MJ up well.

 

just get a wider W/S! ...…………………... thanks keyav8r. 

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I slipped a spacer shim under the bottom hinge on the DS door to correct sag.  Could not get the hinge pins to move.  Pulled one of the original shims to use as a pattern.  Between that and the GC weatherstrip wind and road noise are greatly reduced.

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6 hours ago, Keyav8r said:

I slipped a spacer shim under the bottom hinge on the DS door to correct sag.  Could not get the hinge pins to move.  Pulled one of the original shims to use as a pattern.  Between that and the GC weatherstrip wind and road noise are greatly reduced.

 

Normally the pins step so bad that it takes tremendous force to move them.

 

I often just cut them and drive the pieces out because of that.

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Another option for a w/s with worn sections--

I've noticed that the rear door weatherstrips on my XJ seem to wear out where peoples feet rub across it getting in.  I've seen similar on my MJ, holes worn in the w/s in certain areas.  I pulled a w/s off a 96 XJ and then cut one foot sections out of it and basically made "patches" for the worn sections of my w/s.  I slip an appropriate size vacuum or fuel hose inside the "bulb" of the w/s at the butted joints of the patch.

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On 8/7/2018 at 1:08 PM, a bum with money said:

 

thanks for the info. not much of a junk yard dog, but may have to do some reconnoitering. 

 

It's worth checking CL for these too. Got my seals off a 96 XJ for $25 for the set and they are a big improvement.

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7 minutes ago, NC Tom said:
7 minutes ago, NC Tom said:

 

It's worth checking CL for these too. Got my seals off a 96 XJ for $25 for the set and they are a big improvement.

It's worth checking CL for these too. Got mine off a 96 XJ for $25 for the set and they are a big improvement.

 

according to the parts vendors the replacement w/s for a mj is the same as and up to a 96 xj. which makes me wonder if the oem is a little bit wider than aftermarket replacement.

thanks for the info.  :L:

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