Tanner Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 Hello gents, it's been some time since I've posted since my MJ was totaled in 2016. I unfortunately have not obtained another Comanche yet but I'm building my YJ and everyone here is way more knowledgable than what seems to be found on wrangler forums. anyhow I'm looking for opinions on steering over knuckle conversions... If that's even what it's called. Any help is appreciated!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 As in keeping the factory inverted-Y setup and flipping the tierod on the drivers side, or going to inverted-T and flipping both sides? Wait. I'm not sure if a YJ is inverted-T or inverted-Y from the factory... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanner Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share Posted May 18, 2018 Yes, so the PO set it up as SOA but left the stock steering set up. The issue then comes with any kind of extension/travel the front leaf pack makes contact with the steering arm. Obviously I don't particularly want to leave it that way and I don't necessarily want to convert to front coils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 You're not going to fix that by flipping anything. Look at doing crossover with a WJ knuckle, although I'm not sure if that will work or not. Or do what 90% of people do and bend the drag link for clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanner Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share Posted May 18, 2018 Yeah that was my thought but I seemed to remember hearing about flipping the steering assembly around and couldn't for the life of me remember what the purpose of doing it was. I guess I'll start looking into the WJ knuckle swap and see if that might assuage the problem. I'm open to any suggestions on getting this accomplished. Though I fear it will turn into either switching back to SUA or moving to front coils. Not sure how I would even begin to properly bend the link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 There is aftermarket high steer knuckles too. I'm not a huge fan of them, but they're basically meant for this situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeyyank Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 There is this kit, but personally I think RR makes junk http://www.rocky-road.com/yj-high-steer.html Also this kit https://www.mountainoffroad.com/steering-correction-kit-87-95-yj.html You can also look at reid knuckles but for the cost axle swap might be the best option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveevryjp1998 Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 Wj knuckles from 99-04 Grand Cherokee from a junkyard. These are for mj/xj with the spacers welded in. I never have researched what is needed for your setup as far as spacers for correct axleshaft ujoint alignment to ball joints. The best part is dual piston front calipers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanner Posted May 20, 2018 Author Share Posted May 20, 2018 Thanks for the help guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted May 22, 2018 Share Posted May 22, 2018 I do have the WJ knuckles on an XJ. I could measure the distance from the bottom flange to the top one. JKS and Iron Rock sell the 1/4 inch spacer. It is needed (by most accounts) to position the drive shafts joints correctly. Also, you will need WJ lower ball joints. I used 07-08 KJ or Dodge Nitro Brake rotors. They are about 1/16 less diameter than the WJ rotors. They have 5 on 4.5 spacing. I did calculations and about a 1/16 off of spacing than nominal. As for the cross over steering, I used Ruff Stuff kit. Chevy TREs. You would need to ream out the knuckles for the Chevy Taper. JKS makes a drop in kit, though. I did use Rusty's OTK Track Bar kit. I needed to use spacers on my front as I have 8 inch wide Canyon Rims. Also, you would need to use the hub bearing assemble from a 00-01 XJ. This is also to space the rotor correctly, ie offset. There are a lot of post on the WJ knuckle upgrade. Some of it scares me. Others are a lot more work than needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeyyank Posted May 22, 2018 Share Posted May 22, 2018 Only issue with the WJ swap is leafs........I don't think the drag link will properly clear the leafs for SOA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted May 22, 2018 Share Posted May 22, 2018 I looked under my XJ after lunch. The lower ear is about center of the axle. The upper ear is roughly 3.5" higher. It might work. The cross over would have to have the TREs on the underside. The steering would have to be over on the ear and probably under pitman. The swaybar bracket would have to go up then come out on the passenger side. At least that is the way I see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kryptronic Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 A pitman arm from an XJ might cure this. They give a 2" drop over the stock YJ pitman arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 2 hours ago, kryptronic said: A pitman arm from an XJ might cure this. They give a 2" drop over the stock YJ pitman arm. It's only 1" drop. A ZJ one would be 2" drop. It might make enough difference to fix it, but I have my doubts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kryptronic Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 29 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said: It's only 1" drop. A ZJ one would be 2" drop. It might make enough difference to fix it, but I have my doubts. This is right. I was mixed up. By the way it looks I think dropping it would clear at droop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 2 minutes ago, kryptronic said: This is right. I was mixed up. By the way it looks I think dropping it would clear at droop. If he turns the steering to full right lock and take the drag link end off the pitman arm, it would be easy enough to measure if it will make enough difference or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kryptronic Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 Just now, DirtyComanche said: If he turns the steering to full right lock and take the drag link end off the pitman arm, it would be easy enough to measure if it will make enough difference or not. That's what I was thinking. Pull the drag link off the pitman arm, position it lower and see if it clears. When the YJ went SOA a drop pitman arm should have been part of the plan, IMHO. That's stock length in the pic, if I'm not mistaken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeyyank Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 Did more digging because I want to know. Basically the only option is a WJ swap but it takes some creativity to get everything matched up. Big fan of the WJ swap but $$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 3 minutes ago, Smokeyyank said: Big fan of the WJ swap but $$$ How is it expensive? Looks like it's all just junkyard or generic parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 2 hours ago, DirtyComanche said: How is it expensive? Looks like it's all just junkyard or generic parts? I priced it some time back.........IIRC, about $600 by the time you're done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveevryjp1998 Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 It does add up fast and its a lot of work but worth it. Knuckles, ball joints, wheel bearings, spacers, calipers, pads, rotors to start. Then all the linkage and fabing brackets. Its definitely a lot of time and time is money. I'm interested in the kj setup. Its the first Ive heard of that setup vs. drilling out wj rotors for 5 on 4.5. I'm completely ignorant on those and have no clue on which calipers you would use with that or if those need spacers as well like the wj calipers and unit bearing flange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveevryjp1998 Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 The biggest problem I faced for a while was finding a zerk fitting for the wj lower balljoint that did not interfere with the axle shaft and was serviceable(meaning not a plug) without having to remove the axleshaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 7 hours ago, saveevryjp1998 said: It does add up fast and its a lot of work but worth it. Knuckles, ball joints, wheel bearings, spacers, calipers, pads, rotors to start. Then all the linkage and fabing brackets. Its definitely a lot of time and time is money. I'm interested in the kj setup. Its the first Ive heard of that setup vs. drilling out wj rotors for 5 on 4.5. I'm completely ignorant on those and have no clue on which calipers you would use with that or if those need spacers as well like the wj calipers and unit bearing flange. Is this in reference to my post?? If so, it is only the rotors. Also, I am not sure of the designation of the 07-08 Libby. I did the research and stack up about 3 years back. I am not sure if anybody used this info or not. I think so. I had this done just after Christmas. I have made some long distance runs and through WVa mountain areas. It is much smoother than stock. Also, the cross over steering is so much better. Drilling out the WJ rotors would be the best or next best option. I was trying for a bolt in option. Besides welding on the spacers, the JKS cross over steering might be bolt on. I am not sure if that would work for the OP though. I think as in the picture he would need the steering link to go above the knuckle. The pictures show what I think a WJ components. I was looking into that. It would involve welding and possibly threading. Its an odd thread. I did get some forming taps. Still, I was reading of WJ owners having problems with their steering links breaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeyyank Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 19 hours ago, DirtyComanche said: How is it expensive? Looks like it's all just junkyard or generic parts? WJ conversion at least for the MJ when I get there will be about 1.5-2k. I'm going with the Stinkyfab kit and will source some of my own parts. There is modification to the sway bar mounts and track bar that need to be done. In no way is it just a bolt up kit. I know some people will just swap knuckles but it's not taking full advantage of the set up. There complete kit is almost $1900, but that is EVERYTHING and new http://www.stinkyfab.com/sfr-high-roller-wj-steering-brake-kit-xj-mj/ Basic kit is less, but you need to source your own parts http://www.stinkyfab.com/sfr-basic-wj-high-steer-big-brake-kit-xj/ Obviously I know there are ways to do it cheaper, but I think they have the most complete kit and make awesome parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 That is both a OTK steering and the WJ big brake. I didn't read all of it. I puller the two knuckles from the JY. Say $50, give or take. I already had new upper ball joints. I got two Lower. I think for upper and lowers say $200. You'd need hub bearing units. I used Timken, say $100 each. There were the spacer plates, say $50 (JKS or Iron Rock). I had them welded on, $50 ???. I also grabbed the calipers and bracket from the JK. Say $50. Then I used them as a core for rebuilt NAPA's (Akebonos, recommended upgrade from the Teves). I'd say $50 each. New rotors Centrics $50 each or so. New pads $30 NAPA. I do have Black Magic $125. The cross over steering was from Ruff Stuff, $250 I think. Heavy tubing. You would not want to even drop it on your foot. I went with the Rusty's OTK Track bar. I want to say $300 shipped. There are others in that price range. I went with Rusty's as it has poly bushings instead of heim joints. (???). I come up with $1380, probably a bit more. Edit: I did purchase a Chevy tapers reamer $100 or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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