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Posted

yeah, 35s are a lot of tire for our little wheel wells. :(   the proper backspacing and longer bumpstops can help but even then it might be nipping at the corners pretty bad when turning and stuffing.

Posted
3 hours ago, Pete M said:

yeah, 35s are a lot of tire for our little wheel wells. :(   the proper backspacing and longer bumpstops can help but even then it might be nipping at the corners pretty bad when turning and stuffing.

 

4 hours ago, 89eliminator said:

you'll still have to trim

Dam that’s if I go off road tho right? 

Posted
43 minutes ago, Pete M said:

Excellent!  that should work out well.  :thumbsup:  you'd be surprised how many forget that part.  :D  

So it’s safe for 6 inch or 4.5 inch lift with 35s? What would you do

Posted

I'd just go SOA in the rear, then match the front to whatever that worked out to, then bumpstop as required and/or add springs or spacers to get it to exactly where you want it.  However, if you want to do zero cutting or trimming, I'd just about guarantee you will need 6" lift and about 5" worth of bumpstops.

Posted

 

10 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said:

I'd just go SOA in the rear, then match the front to whatever that worked out to, then bumpstop as required and/or add springs or spacers to get it to exactly where you want it.  However, if you want to do zero cutting or trimming, I'd just about guarantee you will need 6" lift and about 5" worth of bumpstops.

 

3 minutes ago, Pete M said:

I ran 33s, that's what I did. :thumbsup: and I  still had to trim a little bit at 5.5" of lift.  :(  

I was doing 6.5 just to be safe but thank you. Soa is will have to happen. 

Posted

if you run 35s, youll have you trim no matter what you do with the truck.  the wheel opening is only so big.  i had skinny 33s with 6.5" lift and still had to trim some of the flares.

Posted

yes, but "go big" usually involves axles tougher than a dana 30 :D    looks aside, your truck and your drivetrain will always appreciate a smaller tire.   

 

when I was building my truck I always had in the back of my head the fact that 35s will only give you 2" more ground clearance over 31s.  I split the difference with 33s but I also had a salt-belt truck so it wasn't any big deal to nip a bit here and there.  oh, and I extended the bump stops front and rear to help keep things in check.  

Posted
3 hours ago, Pete M said:

yes, but "go big" usually involves axles tougher than a dana 30 :D    looks aside, your truck and your drivetrain will always appreciate a smaller tire.   

 

when I was building my truck I always had in the back of my head the fact that 35s will only give you 2" more ground clearance over 31s.  I split the difference with 33s but I also had a salt-belt truck so it wasn't any big deal to nip a bit here and there.  oh, and I extended the bump stops front and rear to help keep things in check.  

What’s a good swap for the Dana 30? I got the amc 20 on the rear 

Posted

nothing much actually. :(  at least nothing that matches your current width and bolt pattern.  unless you can find the TJ Rubicon front dana 44.  but it's rare, expensive, and only kind of an improvement (is low pinion and uses a lot of dana 30 parts in the outers).   of course there is a complete aftermarket axle, which is perfect :D except it's even way more expensive.  :(  

 

how to keep your dana 30 alive?  upgrade the shafts an ujoints with aftermarket goodies.  add a truss and upgraded steering.  and don't ever jump it. :D  

 

no matter what you do, it's going to need money thrown at it. :(  big tires are not cheap, even if they are free.  

 

a side note: my axles came from a half-ton Ford.  

Posted
1 hour ago, Pete M said:

nothing much actually. :(  at least nothing that matches your current width and bolt pattern.  unless you can find the TJ Rubicon front dana 44.  but it's rare, expensive, and only kind of an improvement (is low pinion and uses a lot of dana 30 parts in the outers).   of course there is a complete aftermarket axle, which is perfect :D except it's even way more expensive.  :(  

 

how to keep your dana 30 alive?  upgrade the shafts an ujoints with aftermarket goodies.  add a truss and upgraded steering.  and don't ever jump it. :D  

 

no matter what you do, it's going to need money thrown at it. :(  big tires are not cheap, even if they are free.  

 

a side note: my axles came from a half-ton Ford.  

Can a 2001 Jeep Cherokee front axle work?i got a guy selling it for 100

Posted

that one will be low pinion and technically less desirable than the current one, BUT the shafts inside will use the bigger factory 297 Ujoints.  might be worth it just to put those into yours.  (86 got the puny 260 joints)

Posted
8 minutes ago, Pete M said:

that one will be low pinion and technically less desirable than the current one, BUT the shafts inside will use the bigger factory 297 Ujoints.  might be worth it just to put those into yours.  (86 got the puny 260 joints)

Good call about the shafts. I know 33/35 size tires are debatable with this forum but  I wanna take the risk instead of not liking the 33s 

Posted
On 4/2/2018 at 7:18 PM, Omarmartinez33 said:

 

Dam that’s if I go off road tho right? 

 

You might have to turn on the street, too. :banana:

Posted

A buddy of mine @88whitemanche runs about 5.5" of lift on 35s but he did trim the front fenders and his bedsides. You can check out his build thread here on the forum.

I personally have a 6" lift on my comanche but I will most likely be running 31s until I can regear. Little 2.5l, 3.55s and 35s don't really mix well, or even 33s on that ratio

Posted
18 minutes ago, Swampy said:

A buddy of mine @88whitemanche runs about 5.5" of lift on 35s but he did trim the front fenders and his bedsides. You can check out his build thread here on the forum.

I personally have a 6" lift on my comanche but I will most likely be running 31s until I can regear. Little 2.5l, 3.55s and 35s don't really mix well, or even 33s on that ratio

How you have 3.55s on a 2.5? It’s 2wd?

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