Virginia Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 I snapped the cable right at the end of the emergency brake lever. I can't find a good video or write-up on how to replace that. Can someone point me in the right direction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Mesa XJ Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 I know XJ well enough to say but I’m not sure about MJ. I’d imagine it’s very similar to the Wrangler.This thread might help.https://comancheclub.com/topic/34536-diy-e-brake-fix/Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 The e-brake write up is great but that's not my problem. I snapped the cable so now have to replace the cable from the e-brake down under the truck to where it attaches to the rear brake lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kryptronic Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 I'm in the middle of this myself. Same thing happened. It routes under the carpet and seat, so be prepared to remove those, then through the back of the cab in the middle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 Awesome, thank you! I already have the carpet out. Will remove the seat just to make it easier to work on. From where did you order the new cable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 If SWB: https://www.ebay.com/p/Parking-Brake-Cable-Front-Crown-52003192-fits-87-89-Jeep-Comanche/222990698 If LWB: https://www.ebay.com/p/Parking-Brake-Cable-Front-Crown-52003190-fits-87-92-Jeep-Comanche/222771174 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 I'm a 91 comanche. Will either of those fit? I can't really tell from the pictures if they're the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 No, they are not the same. One is for a short bed (SWB), the other a long bed (LWB). Different cables - different lengths. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 I'm feeling a little stupid here. I went to the links and when I put in my vehicle specs, I get the notice that neither cable will fit my make and model truck. I'll probably just call them later. On edit, apparently Ebay's algorithms have changed and you can no long rely on them being right when they say a part will or will not fit your vehicle. I called and have the correct part ordered. Will be working on this Saturday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skorpyo Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 21 hours ago, Virginia said: I'm feeling a little stupid here. I went to the links and when I put in my vehicle specs, I get the notice that neither cable will fit my make and model truck. I'll probably just call them later. On edit, apparently Ebay's algorithms have changed and you can no long rely on them being right when they say a part will or will not fit your vehicle. I called and have the correct part ordered. Will be working on this Saturday. Short Bed: OEM Part Number: F116492https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=908891&cc=1181775&jsn=424https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CLM5JG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Long Bed: OEM Part Number F116491https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=907472&cc=1181775&jsn=425 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 It's ordered. Hope to fix it this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 35 minutes ago, Virginia said: It's ordered. Hope to fix it this weekend. Did you order the Mopar cable? They last longer.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted March 14, 2018 Author Share Posted March 14, 2018 4 hours ago, HOrnbrod said: Did you order the Mopar cable? They last longer.. I ordered the one you recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 (edited) It's been a while, but I remember it being a pain to get the old cable off the actuater. It is held in place with these tabs that I recall using a 13mm (?) socket to compress. Edited March 14, 2018 by fiatslug87 Better recollection Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 On 3/14/2018 at 12:31 AM, fiatslug87 said: It's been a while, but I remember it being a pain to get the old cable off the actuater. It is held in place with these tabs that I recall using a 13mm (?) socket to compress. The line didn't get here until yesterday so this will be a project for this weekend. Is it better to attach to the brake lines in the back first then route up to the pedal or the other way around? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 On 3/13/2018 at 11:34 PM, saveevryjp1998 said: Many local shops can make em too. I love Indianapolis Spring and axle. I will admit I use them a ton for custom brake lines. They will custom do about any thing you ask. I actually had them recently make me the hard steel line routed around cowl behind motor with flex stainless steel on either end so it can route with ease. It was $60. It took about 5 minutes to route. I did the same thing with a rear mj and have not installed it yet. Whole line about 65 again. 5 years ago and still like brand new 100% braided from master to t block on rear $35 he felt bad it was my first time in and it took him a month. They are a fleet truck facility so the walk in guys get put asside but if I'm doing something like a wj knuckle conversion and a complete brake job I figure out my plan and drop it off. By the time I'm ready for the lines its done and cheap. Not even worth spending a day bending lines for the cost. The best is reusing them to on the next heap! Never thought about having a custom line done. If I need it, I will look in to that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skorpyo Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 1 hour ago, Virginia said: The line didn't get here until yesterday so this will be a project for this weekend. Is it better to attach to the brake lines in the back first then route up to the pedal or the other way around? The factory cable has a large rubber grommet on it at the body. Mine busted at the pedal so I just unscrewed the clamps (near foot well and under seat) and removed it out back from under the truck. Inserted new one in the reverse. I cut the grommet off the old line, put it on the new line and ran it into the cab from underneath, but just a few feet so I could find it under the carpet and route it correctly to the pedal. Good luck! PS. I lived in Millington for a year at the end of High School and I really enjoyed Memphis. Cool town, just didn't live there long before heading off to college in Nashville. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 I love it here. Nashville is fun but too big now. And thanks for some guidance on installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skorpyo Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 24 minutes ago, Virginia said: I love it here. Nashville is fun but too big now. And thanks for some guidance on installation. Nashville was great for that time of my life, but it's definitely exploded since then. Good luck on the install! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 Got the wheel cap. It's great. Do you have paypal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted March 31, 2018 Author Share Posted March 31, 2018 On 3/20/2018 at 7:07 AM, Skorpyo said: The factory cable has a large rubber grommet on it at the body. Mine busted at the pedal so I just unscrewed the clamps (near foot well and under seat) and removed it out back from under the truck. Inserted new one in the reverse. I cut the grommet off the old line, put it on the new line and ran it into the cab from underneath, but just a few feet so I could find it under the carpet and route it correctly to the pedal. Good luck! PS. I lived in Millington for a year at the end of High School and I really enjoyed Memphis. Cool town, just didn't live there long before heading off to college in Nashville. So, I changed the cable today. Good bloody bleeping god. One question...well, maybe 2. How do I know it's adjusted correctly? I didn't feel any drag when I drove the truck and only needed to push it about 2 clicks for the truck to not move when I gassed it and slowly released the clutch. Attached is a pic of what broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted April 2, 2018 Author Share Posted April 2, 2018 On 3/31/2018 at 8:44 PM, saveevryjp1998 said: I thought the standard Haynes manual had a section for the brake on the xj and its basically the same thing. I don't know if that helps you much. I'll take a look but I think I'm ok. Emergency brake is holding and I'm not feeling any drag or hearing any brake noise when rolling slowly down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 2, 2018 Share Posted April 2, 2018 sounds like it's properly set to me. an inferred temperature gun should be able to check if there's some heat from drag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 2, 2018 Share Posted April 2, 2018 On 3/31/2018 at 1:27 PM, Virginia said: One question...well, maybe 2. How do I know it's adjusted correctly? I didn't feel any drag when I drove the truck and only needed to push it about 2 clicks for the truck to not move when I gassed it and slowly released the clutch. To do it correctly you should adjust your brake shoes first with a brake spoon using the star wheel on both sides till you can barely hear them dragging inside the drums. Then adjust the e-brake cable to take out any excess slack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted April 2, 2018 Author Share Posted April 2, 2018 5 hours ago, HOrnbrod said: To do it correctly you should adjust your brake shoes first with a brake spoon using the star wheel on both sides till you can barely hear them dragging inside the drums. Then adjust the e-brake cable to take out any excess slack. Man...I can see your lips moving but..........................................is there English in what you just wrote? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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