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Emergency Brake Cable


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I'm feeling a little stupid here.  I went to the links and when I put in my vehicle specs, I get the notice that neither cable will fit my make and model truck.  I'll probably just call them later.

 

On edit, apparently Ebay's algorithms have changed and you can no long rely on them being right when they say a part will or will not fit your vehicle.  I called and have the correct part ordered.  Will be working on this Saturday.

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21 hours ago, Virginia said:

I'm feeling a little stupid here.  I went to the links and when I put in my vehicle specs, I get the notice that neither cable will fit my make and model truck.  I'll probably just call them later.

 

On edit, apparently Ebay's algorithms have changed and you can no long rely on them being right when they say a part will or will not fit your vehicle.  I called and have the correct part ordered.  Will be working on this Saturday.

Short Bed:
OEM Part Number: F116492
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=908891&cc=1181775&jsn=424
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CLM5JG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Long Bed:
OEM Part Number F116491
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=907472&cc=1181775&jsn=425

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It's been a while, but I remember it being a pain to get the old cable off the actuater. It is held in place with these tabs that I recall using a 13mm (?) socket to compress.

Edited by fiatslug87
Better recollection
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On 3/14/2018 at 12:31 AM, fiatslug87 said:

It's been a while, but I remember it being a pain to get the old cable off the actuater. It is held in place with these tabs that I recall using a 13mm (?) socket to compress.

The line didn't get here until yesterday so this will be a project for this weekend.  Is it better to attach to the brake lines in the back first then route up to the pedal or the other way around?

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On 3/13/2018 at 11:34 PM, saveevryjp1998 said:

Many local shops can make em too. I love Indianapolis Spring and axle. I will admit I use them a ton for custom brake lines. They will custom do about any thing you ask. I actually had them recently make me the hard steel line routed around cowl behind motor with flex stainless steel on either end so it can route with ease. It was $60. It took about 5 minutes to route. I did the same thing with a rear mj and have not installed it yet. Whole line about 65 again. 5 years ago and still like brand new 100% braided from master to t block on rear $35 he felt bad it was my first time in and it took him a month. They are a fleet truck facility so the walk in guys get put asside but if I'm doing something like a wj knuckle conversion and a complete brake job I figure out my plan and drop it off. By the time I'm ready for the lines its done and cheap. Not even worth spending a day bending lines for the cost. The best is reusing them to on the next heap!

Never thought about having a custom line done.  If I need it, I will look in to that.

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1 hour ago, Virginia said:

The line didn't get here until yesterday so this will be a project for this weekend.  Is it better to attach to the brake lines in the back first then route up to the pedal or the other way around?

The factory cable has a large rubber grommet on it at the body. Mine busted at the pedal so I just unscrewed the clamps (near foot well and under seat) and removed it out back from under the truck. Inserted new one in the reverse. I cut the grommet off the old line, put it on the new line and ran it into the cab from underneath, but just a few feet so I could find it under the carpet and route it correctly to the pedal. Good luck!

 

PS. I lived in Millington for a year at the end of High School and I really enjoyed Memphis. Cool town, just didn't live there long before heading off to college in Nashville.

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24 minutes ago, Virginia said:

I love it here. Nashville is fun but too big now. 

 

And thanks for some guidance on installation. 

Nashville was great for that time of my life, but it's definitely exploded since then. Good luck on the install!

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/20/2018 at 7:07 AM, Skorpyo said:

The factory cable has a large rubber grommet on it at the body. Mine busted at the pedal so I just unscrewed the clamps (near foot well and under seat) and removed it out back from under the truck. Inserted new one in the reverse. I cut the grommet off the old line, put it on the new line and ran it into the cab from underneath, but just a few feet so I could find it under the carpet and route it correctly to the pedal. Good luck!

 

PS. I lived in Millington for a year at the end of High School and I really enjoyed Memphis. Cool town, just didn't live there long before heading off to college in Nashville.

So, I changed the cable today.  Good bloody bleeping god.  

 

One question...well, maybe 2.  How do I know it's adjusted correctly?  I didn't feel any drag when I drove the truck and only needed to push it about 2 clicks for the truck to not move when I gassed it and slowly released the clutch.

 

Attached is a pic of what broke.  

IMAG0034.jpg

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On 3/31/2018 at 8:44 PM, saveevryjp1998 said:

I thought the standard Haynes manual had a section for the brake on the xj and its basically the same thing. I don't know if that helps you much.

I'll take a look but I think I'm ok.  Emergency brake is holding and I'm not feeling any drag or hearing any brake noise when rolling slowly down the road.

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On 3/31/2018 at 1:27 PM, Virginia said:

One question...well, maybe 2.  How do I know it's adjusted correctly?  I didn't feel any drag when I drove the truck and only needed to push it about 2 clicks for the truck to not move when I gassed it and slowly released the clutch.

 

To do it correctly you should adjust your brake shoes first with a brake spoon using the star wheel on both sides till you can barely hear them dragging inside the drums. Then adjust the e-brake cable to take out any excess slack.

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5 hours ago, HOrnbrod said:

 

To do it correctly you should adjust your brake shoes first with a brake spoon using the star wheel on both sides till you can barely hear them dragging inside the drums. Then adjust the e-brake cable to take out any excess slack.

 

Man...I can see your lips moving but..........................................is there English in what you just wrote?

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