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YITAMOTOR 746 injectors?

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Anyone ever used them?  Sounds like a Bosch 746 clone or something.  


They run new on Amazon for $55.99 for a set of 6.  I'm intrigued.  Listed part number is 0280155746.  



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57 minutes ago, Kickin’Chicken said:

Looks interesting. Are they single port or four port injectors?


Four port, just like Bosch.  Amazon web site shows good pics.  They look straight-up like Bosch 746s, with the same manufacturer's part number.


I'm dying to know if anyone has any experience with them.  They're sold as new and the inexpensive price entices me and worries me at the same time.

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  • HOrnbrod changed the title to YIhttps://comancheclub.com/forums/topic/54689-yitamotor-746-injectors/TAMOTOR 746 injectors?

Man, I went ahead and ordered these today from Amazon.  Yes, there's a risk, but they have a pretty good return policy if I'm not happy with them. 


Amazon buyers gave them pretty good reviews overall.  They're only $56 bucks for the set, so I'll be the guinea pig here and let you know how they do.

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1 hour ago, cruiser54 said:

Keep us in the loop.


Don't screw up your throttle body to MAP hose/tube when you install them.


I hard-lined that sucker using copper tubing.  Much more resilient than that whoosie plastic tube. 



Will do.  I receive injectors tomorrow and plan on installing on Saturday.

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3 hours ago, cruiser54 said:

Ever see this fix?


yes, I did see your fix, as your website is a common reference guide for my beloved Renix MJ ownership.


I do like the way you used a secured fitting inside the throttle body.  Seems more solid and permanent going into the TB as apposed to my re-use of the existing stock "rubber plug" that secures the tube in place.  I do like the use of my copper tubing, however as I feel that it is superior in durability to plastic tubing.  At the time, I had no intention of pulling the TB and replacing my broken plastic vacuum tubing with copper also made for a quicker repair.      


Two different ways to skin a cat.  I like both strategies.  Personally, I think a guy with his TB off should combine the two methods.  I may do that one day.

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For those curious, here's what the Yitamotor 746 injectors look like upon arrival:





No scratches or wear areas.  They do in fact appear to be new.  They have the same manufacturing numbers seen on the Bosch Volvo 746 injectors:  1275194 & 0 280 155 746.  I still can't figure out if they're made by Bosch or they're an aftermarket clones manufactured by Yitamotor.  Can't find anything on internet to verify.


Anxious to see if I'll be happy or if I'll return to get my $56 back.

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Got them installed now.  Truck runs well, although I still think my idle seems a tiny bit off.  That was there to begin with however.  Died one time as I first began backing up, but hasn't died since in the short couple of mile I drove her afterwards.    


If this is no placebo effect, it does seem a bit more responsive at all speeds, taking off as well as stompin' down to pass in the hammer lane. 


I suppose at this point, I'm happy with my VitaMotor 746 injectors.   PRICE IS KILLER!!

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  • 1 month later...

Just wanted to report that my idle has been fixed with a lot of parts replaced and work done to my engine.  These injectors from 746 VitaMotor are working great.  I saved a BUNCH of money on them and so far, I recommend them.  My gosh, they only cost $55.99 for the whole dang set.  I can't figure out how they sell them for so cheap.



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21 hours ago, Kickin’Chicken said:

Thanks for the info.


What work did you do and parts did you replace to fix your idle?


It was one or doing all of the below things:

1.  Welded mildly cracked header and closed the very bad leak at the collector pipe.  I also welded a small gusset between the last two exhaust pipes of the header for added strength, by the way.

2.  Replaced my O2 sensor.

3.  Replaced my water temperature sensor (the one down towards the bottom of the block, driver's side).

4.  Eliminated my EGR.  Did this while I had my header off.  Removed tube connecting header to intake/EGR.  Sealed with weld.  Cut off EGR diaphram and other parts from it's cast iron housing.  Replaced iron housing with sheetmetal sandwiched between it and the intake manifold.  


My guess on which had the most likely impact would probably be the O2 sensor replacement but I'm only guessing.  I had to do all of this together at once, so I didn't have the opportunity to try each individually to test each one.  Maybe a combination of them all, who knows.  I had done all of the above work while I had my manifolds off replacing freeze plugs.  


A month or so prior, I had tested my MAP sensor and fuel rail pressure.  During this time, I had also replaced my CPS, TPS, IAC, and distributer cap (with one that has all copper contacts) and cleaned/reset my throttle body.  It was somewhat of an parts cannon.    

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Dang..... I'm leaning more and more to making the HO plunge. 

I personally plan to keep the renix operating system with a bastard engine. Use a 99+ intake, with whichever head has the better flow but still has the temp sensor (forgot the number and years), renix block, 96 fuel rail, bored HO throttle body, HO header and down pipe, and a few other little items. I see no reason to ditch the renix operating system.

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