gogmorgo Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Looking into it more the less and less I suspect the "old knowledge" is true, at least not any more. The more common tire sizes are getting wider, and tread blocks are moving further outwards onto the shoulder of the tire, making them behave as though they are even wider than they are so even the same sizes that used to fit may not any more. The 235/75/15 Hercules Terra II's on my MJ don't rub my lower control arms, but the more aggressive Grabber AT2's I had before them did, which supposedly should only stick 1/4" further out than the factory tires. For someone like me who needs to drive in snow pretty regularly, I don't want to go any wider than 10.5", but my selection of tires that'll behave in snow is pretty limited if I want to go beyond a 31" diameter. In fact there's only the KO2 out there in a 33x10.5, and I have those on my Jimmy and don't really care that much for them. Ideally I'd have a 32x10.5 but no one makes anything in that size that would handle winter... If you want a 32" they're all 11.5 wide now, 33's are all 12.5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 This is true. 15" "skinny" tires like 31x9.5 and 32x10.5 don't exist anymore for anything except off-road mud tires made by manufacturers like Dick Cepek and Mickey Thomson. At least I can't find any. There seems to be a lot of demand for these sizes too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Ever driven mud tires on ice? Hitting the highway's like throwing a curling rock... except you can steer those if you're good with a broom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertRat1991 Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 11 hours ago, gogmorgo said: Looking into it more the less and less I suspect the "old knowledge" is true, at least not any more. The more common tire sizes are getting wider, and tread blocks are moving further outwards onto the shoulder of the tire, making them behave as though they are even wider than they are so even the same sizes that used to fit may not any more. The 235/75/15 Hercules Terra II's on my MJ don't rub my lower control arms, but the more aggressive Grabber AT2's I had before them did, which supposedly should only stick 1/4" further out than the factory tires. For someone like me who needs to drive in snow pretty regularly, I don't want to go any wider than 10.5", but my selection of tires that'll behave in snow is pretty limited if I want to go beyond a 31" diameter. In fact there's only the KO2 out there in a 33x10.5, and I have those on my Jimmy and don't really care that much for them. Ideally I'd have a 32x10.5 but no one makes anything in that size that would handle winter... If you want a 32" they're all 11.5 wide now, 33's are all 12.5. If that's really what you need, then why not move up to a 16" wheel? Something like the TJ Moab in 16x8. There are dozens of options available in 265/75R16, which is esentially 32x10.5. Even dedicated winter tires like Blizzaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Because I like my factory wheels and haven't found anything else that looks as good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 16 hours ago, gogmorgo said: Ever driven mud tires on ice? Hitting the highway's like throwing a curling rock... except you can steer those if you're good with a broom. Mud tires suck on everything, except mud. I ran a set of BFG MT's for awhile until the tread wore down and the tires started whining/screaming on the pavement. It drove me nuts........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Mud tires on the highway make an Army deuce and a half sound like a limousine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine.D Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 I decided to not to do the lift kit instead I went for coil spring spacers to do about 1” lift in the front. Also I change my mind about the combo because you can buy just the wheels now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Good decision, IMHO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh RC Posted July 1, 2022 Share Posted July 1, 2022 On 1/18/2018 at 3:39 AM, DirtyComanche said: I'm fairly much with DesertRat1991 on this. But I'd do it a little different. I'd look at the condition your coil springs are in before buying spacers. If the truck has any lean, or one is broken or has and uneven set in it, or they're super rusty and the truck has lots of miles, I'd say you're better off buying some V8 ZJ style coils. Moog makes some variable ones for not much money ($50/pair or so): http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=201281&cc=1182057&jsn=2521 I don't actually know how much lift they will give you, its should be almost 2" or a bit less. They actually list them as being a "Heavy Duty" option for the XJ, and they have about a 3/4" more free height and 20lbs more rate than their regular XJ ones. Being variable rate they will be a little nicer ride. Their regular XJ coils for comparison (they're also variable rate): http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=201281&cc=1182057&jsn=2521 For shocks I would say just buy some Bilsteins and get it over with. I can dig you up the P/N for a rear that fits since Bilstein doesn't list it, if you want. Maybe 5% of lift kits come with shocks worth running, the rest are complete garbage. If you don't want to spend as much do the fronts at least, the rears will be less noticeable. For the control arms the stock replacement uppers are fine. Do the bushings in the axle too, I'll warn you they're a pain in the butt to change. I'd get WJ arms for the lowers and mod them so they fit, they have a vibration absorbing bushing in them that does improve the ride. Moog WJ arms: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3983961&cc=1381452&jsn=390 Something like $30/each. (I didn't feel like switching the pricing on the site, I have it in cnd so it's a bit of a guess on the conversion). Mevotech: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6115977&cc=1381452&jsn=398 $40/each, obviously a better product. You'll also want some caster shims and maybe new forks (they tend to break when you go to put the shims in). I think Hornbrod or Cruiser posted the p/n for these at some point, I don't know it and they may be dealer only. Adding a couple shims will make it drive better. Spend the rest of your budget on upgrading the steering to the V8 ZJ/later XJ stuff, a new steering stabilizer, swaybar bushings and end links, and replacing any worn ball joints or brake parts, or anything else that looks ugly when you get in there. IMHO the end result of doing this will be much better than throwing an entry level lift kit at it. Hey man! I'm trying to follow this guidance but some of the links aren't working for me. Any way you can post the part #s? I've been lurking a long time but just now finally decided to join and couldn't pm yet. Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted July 1, 2022 Share Posted July 1, 2022 48 minutes ago, Josh RC said: Hey man! I'm trying to follow this guidance but some of the links aren't working for me. Any way you can post the part #s? I've been lurking a long time but just now finally decided to join and couldn't pm yet. Thanks in advance! I just tested all the links and they work fine for me. Perhaps try opening them on a different device if you have one. You can also copy and paste the link since the whole address is there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 2, 2022 Share Posted July 2, 2022 8 hours ago, Josh RC said: Hey man! I'm trying to follow this guidance but some of the links aren't working for me. Any way you can post the part #s? I've been lurking a long time but just now finally decided to join and couldn't pm yet. Thanks in advance! Links still work for me, although one of them is actually wrong. ZJ springs are Moog P/N CC782. Control arms are MOOG RK640773 and MEVOTECH CMS20425. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motownXJdad Posted July 3, 2022 Share Posted July 3, 2022 On 7/2/2022 at 12:17 AM, DirtyComanche said: Links still work for me, although one of them is actually wrong. ZJ springs are Moog P/N CC782. Control arms are MOOG RK640773 and MEVOTECH CMS20425. moog cc782s are also the replacements for early MJ, XJ off road group springs, and the later XJ upcountry spring, good for 1" lift over stock👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 3, 2022 Share Posted July 3, 2022 23 minutes ago, motownXJdad said: moog cc782s are also the replacements for early MJ, XJ off road group springs, and the later XJ upcountry spring, good for 1" lift over stock👍 I'd figured that out when I checked the links. I think I meant to put a link to a different spring when I made the post, hence my comment that one of the links was wrong. That was 4 years ago though, so, eh, I ain't perfect. My advice is worth exactly what people pay for it, sometimes less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motownXJdad Posted July 3, 2022 Share Posted July 3, 2022 12 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said: I'd figured that out when I checked the links. I think I meant to put a link to a different spring when I made the post, hence my comment that one of the links was wrong. That was 4 years ago though, so, eh, I ain't perfect. My advice is worth exactly what people pay for it, sometimes less. no worries man, i wasnt trying to correct you, you were right, they are V8 ZJ springs too, in addition to also being what i said👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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