SatiricalHen Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 Or the wire between the IGN SW and the Starter Relay coil. Disconnect both C267 and C268 at the IGN SW. Using a fused jumper, jump C267_S to C268_B3. CAUTION STARTER SHOULD ENGAGE. Does Starter Motor engage? didn’t turn the starter over, it’s not started 4 or 5 times in a row now so I believe it may be getting more serious. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted February 8, 2020 Author Share Posted February 8, 2020 Well I put all the ignition switch stuff back up and back together and it started with the key again for a couple days, then today it didn’t start again. I popped the hood to jump the green wire like I normally do, but then I thought let me just look around for a second. There’s an absurd amount of wires connected to the post on the starter relay and right underneath it there are what looks like a bunch of bullet connectors for all of the wires. Well I grabbed them and gave em a lil jiggle jiggle and turn the key and it started, so either coincidence or that’s where my issue lies. I was heading to the library to get a lab report done so I didn’t investigate further, but hopefully this up coming weekend I may have time to actually see if they are connectors and if they are, clean or delete them. Currently I’m very seriously considering adding a late model PDC under the hood and sticking all the relays and such in there to clean things up/make adding extra items easier. In my 99 Cherokee I’ve added relays and fuses to the factory box, and I’ve added a cherokee PDC to a 4runner to power/fuse/switch all of the lights and accessories they added to it. They are very nice compact wiring solutions in my opinion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted February 8, 2020 Share Posted February 8, 2020 When engine fails to START/CRANK, do you lose power to everything? When this happens do you lose power to everything with the KEY ON? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted February 9, 2020 Author Share Posted February 9, 2020 Everything works as it should (as far as I can tell) except the power to trigger the starter relay. When you turn the key to the start position it kills power to everything as it should, when in the run position the clock and the blower are on as they should be. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 You got one (1) wire between IGN SW & Starter Relay. Check for OPEN circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted February 9, 2020 Author Share Posted February 9, 2020 You got one (1) wire between IGN SW & Starter Relay. Check for OPEN circuit. I’m assuming the issue is before the switch since the starter did not engage when I jumped the pins you recommended. I’m terrible at following wiring diagrams and such though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 You mentioned no loss of power with KEY ON or during CRANK. IGN SW C268_B3 seem to be HOT (B+). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 Someone here at sometime had a similar problem. Everything worked, but no CRANK, his starter was loose (no starter ground). Its a quick check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted February 9, 2020 Author Share Posted February 9, 2020 Someone here at sometime had a similar problem. Everything worked, but no CRANK, his starter was loose (no starter ground). Its a quick check. This can’t be the issue since it starts as soon as I touch the green wire off the starter relay to power. I’ve tested at the starter relay and the wire coming from the switch to the relay doesn’t have power when it’s acting up, I swapped ignition switches and that didn’t solve the issue so now I’m in the mindset that the issue is before the ignition switch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted February 17, 2020 Author Share Posted February 17, 2020 Well the heater core started leaking so that’s enjoyable. I also feel a little silly. I have noticed a lot of my Comanche seemed to not have any fuses. Well all that mess of wire under the starter relay is actually a lot of fusible links. I think this summer I’ll probably swap in a late model Comanche fuse box and wire all that up to it and make it a lot cleaner/ nicer looking. The hard part is finding out what the equivalent fuse for each link. Also, since putting it all back together she’s been starting flawlessly. There is a lot of wiring in this truck that seems it could be improved/fixed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted February 17, 2020 Author Share Posted February 17, 2020 Ordered parts not really thinking and I have most of a 95 Cherokee AC system because I converted to r134a when I did the motor swap. Well I decided to order an evaporator core and expansion valve for a 95 so I could finish it off. Now I’m starting to wonder if it will fit in my hvac box or if I’ll need to get one out of a 95 or if this whole thing isn’t going to work.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted February 18, 2020 Author Share Posted February 18, 2020 Well I had noticed a clunk and I had my girlfriend rock the wheel back and forth and the TRE on the trackbar is bad. No big deal, easy fix. Well I feel up on the back side and the nut is about rusted off so this is going to turn into a fun project. I can’t seem to find the track bar bracket online so I guess I’ll have to pull one from a junkyard or some how get the rusted nub off the top. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted March 19, 2020 Author Share Posted March 19, 2020 Got the new track bar on a while ago and it was actually super easy which is surprising. Since it’s getting warmer I decided to be lazy and put off the heater core. Instead I washed and waxed it and it looks red againSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted March 28, 2020 Author Share Posted March 28, 2020 I’ve never understood how people are pulling other Comanches or Cherokees with their Comanche. This load I could definitely feel. It was fine going like 45-50 around town, but I’ve tried to pull this trailer down the highway before empty and then drag from the tailgate kills my truck. It’s not happy doing 60-65 and barely can make it to 70-75. It feels quick and strong empty, but it bogs down real quick with loads. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted March 30, 2020 Author Share Posted March 30, 2020 Picked another one of these up today which reminds me again I still need to fix the front of the frame so I can actually install one of the two. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted April 7, 2020 Author Share Posted April 7, 2020 Well I’m done with this exhaust leak from the cheap eBay header. Ordered a banks torque tube header and I have plenty of time to put it on since were doing online school and stay at home so once I’m done with this round of tests I should be leak free!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted April 12, 2020 Author Share Posted April 12, 2020 Got the new exhaust in and it sounds a lot better. I think there might be a little bit of a leak at the header to front pipe connection, but I’ll tighten it up after driving it a few miles like they recommend. It could just be valve train noise too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted May 29, 2020 Author Share Posted May 29, 2020 I think I finally fixed my gas leak between the roll over valve grommets and JB welding the return tube on the gas tank. Also, it’s gotten a single pane rear window and I committed further to the single pane life. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onebigmj Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 Nice! Did you do manual or power windows? My window seals are junk and I’m leaning toward going one piece glass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted May 30, 2020 Author Share Posted May 30, 2020 Nice! Did you do manual or power windows? My window seals are junk and I’m leaning toward going one piece glass. I had manual windows and don’t mind the manual windows so I stuck with what I had. It wasn’t too bad once I fully committed. I need to adjust the passenger window some and it’ll be good to goSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onebigmj Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 11 minutes ago, SatiricalHen said: I had manual windows and don’t mind the manual windows so I stuck with what I had. It wasn’t too bad once I fully committed. I need to adjust the passenger window some and it’ll be good to go Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I just got glass, seals regulators for mine at the JY. Might try to tackle it this weekend if weather allows. Did you do the bleepingjeep method or another way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted May 30, 2020 Author Share Posted May 30, 2020 I just got glass, seals regulators for mine at the JY. Might try to tackle it this weekend if weather allows. Did you do the bleepingjeep method or another way? I did what he did, using the measurements he provided, but I kinda turned the crank some so the holes landed on the flat spot instead of bending it. The crank pokes out far enough to not weld or anything. I don’t like the newer style cranks so I’m trying to figure out how to get the old style ones to work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted June 1, 2020 Author Share Posted June 1, 2020 I was thinking about doing brakes, steering and ball joints this summer and I can’t decide if I stick with factory stuff because I haven’t really had an issue locking up the tires with the single diaphragm booster and stock calipers and rotors. I’ve contemplated doing the WJ big brake swap, but I don’t know if it’s really that big of an advantage for stockish size tires Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted June 6, 2020 Author Share Posted June 6, 2020 Did the 97+ wiper arms, new wiper blades, new wiper bushings, a DIY antenna delete thing since I still can’t find a factory antenna delete plug and it got a side hood prop because I got tired of the annoying front hood prop. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted June 7, 2020 Author Share Posted June 7, 2020 Was feeling froggy so I finally swapped in my intermittent wipers which is a huge ordealVery convenient to be able to just pop the door off and it’s completely out of the way Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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