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Adjustable rear proportioning valves--tips for location


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If your going to have in cab control of your brakes then man up and add a second bias valve..... Not front to back but left to right......think of how easy those hair pin corners would be if you could ......when turning left shut off the right side brakes....hit that corner old school Sammy Hagar "one foot on the brake and one on the gas".....talk about turning on a dime.....just a thought...

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Speedway didn't have comprehensive flow specs on that mini APV that I show in the picture.  it shows gpm and max psi and states that it can be completely shut down whatever line it is controlling if desired.  I was curious of flow characteristics during "fully open" setting.  

 

FYI for the benefit of anyone interested in this particular device, I sent them a message and here's their response:

 

Perry, I just spoke with one of my techs and he stated that it will not be fully open when the valve is fully open, there will still be some restriction there.
 
Thinking around 20% restriction, so it'll flow 80% of the fluid that a straight line will.
 
As far as I know, we do not offer a proportioning valve that will flow as if there is nothing there while fully open, however the purple proportioning valve might flow a little better as it is not a complete shutoff valve while fully closed, there will likely still be a bit of resistance there.
 
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2 hours ago, HOrnbrod said:

Captain Obvious says:  "Any inline valve will cause increased restriction from turbulence over a straight line flow".

 

True-dat.  As an owner, I wanted to know how much.  

 

2 hours ago, sinkrun said:

I have hauled many dozens of loads of ranked firewood to the cab line all oak and hauled it over 60 miles one way never had a braking problem at all and its all mountains. Even pulling a small trailer at times.

 

Glad to hear.  May be a different circumstance than I, however.   I now have a brand new single line running to rear, replacing the dual lines (and therefore, obviously, a LSV delete).   Perhaps more significantly, however, is that I'm running no front prop block, so no restricted orifices within anymore.

 

Who knows, maybe I don't need the APV.  My truck is still in pieces for another week or so.  But I now have one installed just in case.  Plus I can shut off rear brakes if I ever need to.  AND I can shut her down to do some WICKED BURNOUTS if I'm so inclined!

 

    

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New, member, forum very helpful. Was installing new emergency brake cables, due 12-31-17. Removed floor mat 1yr ago, HPV still hooked up ,can feel pressure differential when moving arm, didn't know what the block did, do now. Will leave in in place, just do the mod on front brakes for now.Brakes were horrific, didn't dare drive it too far, right rear line look as if it had 99% blockage @ a protective plate on rear end housing, had a severe pinch. I have a 1989 Comanche Sport, short bed, 4x4, A/T, locked the front drive in, put a hose clamp on shaft,  internally, after removing the vaccum motor , 40l engine, 189 k on the speedo. Installed a later mod radiator with fill tank. Putting new brake shoes & drums on the back. I'm 77yrs, don't plan to do any  major mods, want something to drive % let the big trk stay home & rest, 2k, k3500 ,crew cab.4x4, diesel, 8' bed. Last year of the Classic Style. Thanks for the info here been a great help. Mossyjaw, N.C.

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Glad to hear.  May be a different circumstance than I, however.   I now have a brand new single line running to rear, replacing the dual lines (and therefore, obviously, a LSV delete).   Perhaps more significantly, however, is that I'm running no front prop block, so no restricted orifices within anymore.
 
Who knows, maybe I don't need the APV.  My truck is still in pieces for another week or so.  But I now have one installed just in case.  Plus I can shut off rear brakes if I ever need to.  AND I can shut her down to do some WICKED BURNOUTS if I'm so inclined!
 
    
Coolwind you follow Jcr on social media? Here manche is a HO with a supercharger and they have a vid of theirs doing burnies

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

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Update:  My brakes ROCK now!  Got my MJ running last night and took her for a spin.  My brakes were not so bad to begin with.  But now they are excellent!  Feels like I have 4-wheel disc brakes. 

 

Many thanks to Cruiser54 for the advice on ridding the front proportional block.  I have killer good brakes, and I now have the ability to adjust the rears (or shut them down if I choose to). 

 

 

 

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On 12/12/2017 at 4:35 AM, coolwind57 said:

Update:  My brakes ROCK now!  Got my MJ running last night and took her for a spin.  My brakes were not so bad to begin with.  But now they are excellent!  Feels like I have 4-wheel disc brakes. 

 

Many thanks to Cruiser54 for the advice on ridding the front proportional block.  I have killer good brakes, and I now have the ability to adjust the rears (or shut them down if I choose to). 

That is largely or exclusively due to the size of the passage in the distro block being .050".

 

XJ prop valve is .100" as is the ID of the brake lines. 

No more restriction of fluid to the front brakes. Nice mod, eh?

I found that out when I went from distro to T fitting quite by accident. Already had the dual diaphragm booster and the adjustable prop valve for the rear. 

Getting rid of that restrictive distro helps braking immensely. 

On 12/12/2017 at 4:35 AM, coolwind57 said:

 

 

 

 

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