Ant_mant Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 Hello again. So I was finally able to get a moment to put my comanche up on Jack stands and get my first real look at what was going on. I had posted a few questions on here before and got some wonderful feedback and now that I am a little more informed, I want to try again. My name is Ant and I just bought my Comanche! It is an 88 Jeep Comanche Cheif. 4.0l Renix 5 speed 4wd Short bed. (Previously I said it was an 87, but the title says differently) The previous owner bought the truck as a project and never began. The Guy he bought it from apparently stopped driving it because the clutch slave cylinder went bad. Seems likely as there is a new slave cylinder in the cab that came with the truck, and the transmission is half out. Whoever started on it broke the trans line off of the original slave cylinder. No big deal as long as i can get it free from the coupler. So... The starter is removed. The bolts to the engine are removed (and have long since been lost apparently, anyone know where I can buy replacements? The RPM or Speedometer cable that hooks into the trans is removed. The Stick is removed. As far as I can tell, the only thing holding the trans in is the mount attached to the crossmember. Is there anything else I need to look for before attempting removal? Puegeot right? Anybody have a relay diagram? What is this Vacuum line for? It passes into the firewall and it is broken. I'm sorry to bother with all these silly questions. I know the information is out there but it becomes very hard to filter through to find what you need. I am not a mechanic. I am a novice car guy. I have worked on my own jeeps plenty but they have been newer cherokees and I learn as I go. When something breaks, I learn how to fix it. I am good with my hands, I just don't know this particular truck yet. And if I took it apart I would know how to fix it but unfortunately many things are already half apart. The Hanes manuals are so vague because they cover 1984-2001 that they are basically no help. If anybody can recommend a better manual more specifically tailored to this truck, I would greatly appreciate it. Furthermore, I am about 10 miles from Philadelphia. I have been looking to outsource some of this work to other people. For instance, the new ignition cylinder I need put in. Could I do it? Yeah probably, but I would rather save myself the frustration and pay someone to replace it. I am also really trying to get this project moving and don't have as much time as I would like. So If you are looking to make a few extra bucks and wouldn't mind coming out to my house to take on a few of these smaller projects, let me know and maybe we connect. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 Ant, here is a link to the 88 electrical manual. Save to your desk top and print out a hard copy for easy reference. I cannot tell if yours is a BA10. Your picture is the back of the tcase. However, 88, 4.0 5 speeds came with the BA10. The vacuum line could be for the heater control valve. It is hard to see in the picture if a PO removed it. Does yours have the reservoir bottle on at the firewall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 The shifter is the easiest way for a novice to tell which transmission you have. 3 bolts holding it on is BA 10/5, 4 bolts is AX series (AX4 or AX5 with 4 cyl, depending on whether it is 4 speed or 5 speed. 4.0L came with AX15 5 speed starting in '89 with some dealer replacements of the BA 10/5 under warranty in older models before that. ) The Tremec series trans used in pre '88 XJ, CJ Jeeps, AMC Eagles and stupidly some Full Size 81-84 Jtrucks with 4.2L was a light duty T5 that died quickly due to only holding 1 quart of fluid and having too much flexing of the main shaft away from the countershaft. It wasn't the world class high performance trans used in Mustangs with the 5.0L. Someone thought it would work fine when they converted the metric strength to standard but like with the BA 10/5 they used the wrong conversion factor and neglected the added load of being 4x4 to the equation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Mesa XJ Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 I’m not too sure on the renix jeeps (87-90 4.0 mj &xj) it looks to me like there might be some relays missing from that block but I could be wrong. Missing bolts you should be able to get from the hardware store. Maybe somebody here will remember the sizes needed. Or that parts XJ you have.Yeah, that’s the back of the transfer case, which might have the selector lever to shift it in to 4 wheel drive still connected, it’ll be on the drivers side of the transfer case.You can lower the transmission a little and separate the transfer case from transmission, might make it easier to remove. Or you can pull them together if you want.Sucks the PO lost the bolts, I hate taking on abandoned projects just because there is always something else waiting to surprise as you reassemble. Not that it isn’t worth it to get this MJ back in the road.If too much is missing I’d go the ax-15 route since you have all of that on another XJ. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 I’m not too sure on the renix jeeps (87-90 4.0 mj &xj) it looks to me like there might be some relays missing from that block but I could be wrong. Missing bolts you should be able to get from the hardware store. Maybe somebody here will remember the sizes needed. Or that parts XJ you have. Yeah, that’s the back of the transfer case, which might have the selector lever to shift it in to 4 wheel drive still connected, it’ll be on the drivers side of the transfer case. You can lower the transmission a little and separate the transfer case from transmission, might make it easier to remove. Or you can pull them together if you want. Sucks the PO lost the bolts, I hate taking on abandoned projects just because there is always something else waiting to surprise as you reassemble. Not that it isn’t worth it to get this MJ back in the road. If too much is missing I’d go the ax-15 route since you have all of that on another XJ. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro All 3 relays (fuel pump, AC and cooling fan IIRC) appear to be missing. Is the crank sensor still on the bell housing? I'd remove it first to prevent damage if this was my Jeep. On the AX15, I would swap it in rather than chance the BA-10/5 was toast already. It's a lot of work for nothing otherwise. The pilot bearing in the crank is different but I can't recall what else changed on those. Different slave maybe? That would get you the bolts you need at the same time. Make sure you swap the AX15 along with the tcase to avoid the 21 spline vs 23 spline problems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant_mant Posted September 28, 2017 Author Share Posted September 28, 2017 87MJTIM: Thank for that manual. I'm sure I will need it. There are electrical problems already that I can visually see, and I haven't even put a battery in it yet. And yes there is a reservoir on the passenger side towards the firewall. The small hose that comes out of the thermostat housing splits towards the firewall, Then goes to the reservoir and to that vacuum line that passes into the firewall. Green Mesa: Yes I do have the ax15 trans in the other jeep but i am really nervous about doing the swap because i have read about the pilot bearing and input shaft being different and I havent found a lot of information as to exactly what parts i would need to put a 92 ax15 in an 88 comanche. I don't want to get that far into a project that I know very little about. Maybe dropping this transmission will at least give me some idea as to how these things all connect. I think I just need to see it. I know it seems a little silly to put the Puegeot back together if I want to do the swap anyway, but I would feel more comfortable if i could get the truck back up running and driving before adding another project to the list. I have been thinking about dropping the ax5 and storing it until I can find more info on the swap. Carnuck: I had a feeling those relays were important. Hahah Thanks Furthermore the dust jacket(?) that goes on the internal slave is missing so I have to locate one. I'm pretty sure that shouldn't be too hard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 Ant, here is a write up of the swap: I have a write up on my swap, but...thanks to BotoPhucket, the picture links are gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveO Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 Nice build. Solid start! Reminds me of mine when I acquired it years ago. It was also listed as an 88'. Title being 87'. Previous owner stared to build it his way, gave up and sold it. Lucky me. It will be worth it when it's done. Drove mine for the first time on the road today. Well worth all the hours and work. Following. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant_mant Posted September 30, 2017 Author Share Posted September 30, 2017 I confirmed that it is a Peugeot trans. 87MJTIM: Thanks for the write up. It seems simple enough. So the only thing I need to change is the pilot bearing to a 74 cj? And of course the ax15 parts and pieces. But I have a complete 92 xj 5 speed to pull from. SteveO: that is sweet man. I can't wait to have that feeling. Mine was actually sold as an 87 but according to the title and stickers under the hood it is an 88 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant_mant Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 All bolts that attach bell housing to engine are removed. I can't get the trans mount that is attached to the crewmember off so I unbolted the crossmember. Trans will still not come out. Its bolted to something I suppose. Any ideas what could be holding this up? When I let the jack down it drops enough for crossmember to clear the bolts and then stops. I cannot figure what is holding it in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Mesa XJ Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 Electrical harness, transfer case linkage, transmission linkage, the torx bolts at the top of the bellhousing. Just a few idea of maybe what’s holding it back.Thing is these transmissions and engines have been bolted for decades together sometimes it takes some persuasion separate them. Other worse case is depending where the jeep was is rust between the transmission, flywheel/flexplate and motor. Around here that would be a salt water flood car. I would think this is rare condition.Other weird thing is on some cars there are bolts the thread in from the front of the motor you don’t see looking from behind the transmission.Other than that it’s a matter of persuading. I’ve never had to drop the transmission on a 4.0 jeep so I’m probably missing a few tricks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant_mant Posted October 8, 2017 Author Share Posted October 8, 2017 Green Mesa xj: Damn torx bolts! Anyway, I got the transmission out and replaced the slave cylinder and after a few hours of work, got it back in. there are two valves on top of the trans. one of which has xfercase fluid in it. the other is some sort of breather hose. Can anyone tell me where these lines are supposed to connect? The plastic one (breather) went into a fuel/vacuum line, and then into junction piece wich was not attached to anything. The transfew case line was not attached to anything so I also have no idea what that goes to. See Picture: ALSO THIS? Don't know what it is for? its on the driver side of trans. Maybe for 4 wheel drive selector? Also if anyone can tell me how to reinstall 4WD that would be awesome. I didn't take it apart so I have little idea of how exactly it is supposed to go back together. I see the lever and actuator but I don't know how to rebolt. More Questions: Driver Side: Brake lines have been cut and partially removed so I can't follow them all to source. One of the top lines runs to some valve on gas lines. The other disappears up above fuel tank. Any ideas? Passenger side: These lines are running on passenger side by the front axle. They hook into that connector which appears like some sort of vacuum line? Not sure what they are for. Any help would be appreciated. Since I bought the truck with some things already apart, I just don't know where they go to replace. Brake(?) lines I want to replace because they are old rotted and broken/cut but again can't say where they are all supposed to go. Thanks, Ant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 The two breather/vent lines on the transmission and tcase would originally get routed around and hook to a bracket on the bellhousing that dumps them downwards. You're better off putting a new hose on them (you can tee them together) and running them up into the engine bay. There is a vent cap to go on them to keep water/debris out, I have the Dorman P/N around somewhere if you want it. The switch on the transmission is for backup lights. Of your mystery lines that run to the rear, I can't commend what order they go in. However there is a brake pressure line, a brake fail pressure line, both of which run from the distribution valve by the master cylinder back to the height sensing load valve above the rear axle. The fail line only comes into play if there is a front brake failure (drop in pressure) as the valve will shuttle in the distribution block to provide pressure to the fail line which bypasses the height valve (gives rear brakes full pressure). Then there is the fuel pressure and return (which you ID'd) lines. Lastly there is an evap line from the fuel tank to the charcoal canister in the engine bay. The other lines are vacuum lines for the CAD (central axle disconnect), they run from the vacuum reservoir to the tcase vacuum switch, and then to the axle and an indicator switch for 4wd. There is info around on exactly which ones do what and how to make it all work, personally I'd delete it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Mesa XJ Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Green Mesa xj: Damn torx bolts! ALSO THIS? Don't know what it is for? its on the driver side of trans. Maybe for 4 wheel drive selector? Also if anyone can tell me how to reinstall 4WD that would be awesome. I didn't take it apart so I have little idea of how exactly it is supposed to go back together. I see the lever and actuator but I don't know how to rebolt. That plug in the picture should be the reverse light switch. When you reinstall you should find a plug in the wiring harness that matches it.The vent tubes in the first picture generally run to the top of the transmission to near the firewall. I’m not sure exactly where For hooking up the transfer case I’ve got the linkage and selector lose in a box I can get a picture of. More Questions: Driver Side: Brake lines have been cut and partially removed so I can't follow them all to source. One of the top lines runs to some valve on gas lines. The other disappears up above fuel tank. Any ideas? The on top of the tank I think is where the gas vapor vents go to the intake to be used. Not 100% on that . Passenger side: These lines are running on passenger side by the front axle. They hook into that connector which appears like some sort of vacuum line? Not sure what they are for. Any help would be appreciated. Since I bought the truck with some things already apart, I just don't know where they go to replace. Brake(?) lines I want to replace because they are old rotted and broken/cut but again can't say where they are all supposed to go. Thanks, Ant Passengers side I believe are for the from axel vacuum disconnect (CAD). 84-91 jeep thought disconnecting the passenger side axel in the front would some how magically make the XJ/mj more fuel efficient, it didn’t, it just left a weak spot to fail on the trail. I can get pictures later of how it hooks up later if you need it. We got miserable weather here from hurricane Nate so I’m not going out side until I must. Spent the last day working in random rain from feeder bands, trying to stay dry to day.However o the vacuum disconnect most bypass that CAD on the axel to have it engaged all the time. Some good writes up on how to do it with the parts already there on the axel . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Mesa XJ Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 DirtyComanche beat me to it! :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant_mant Posted October 8, 2017 Author Share Posted October 8, 2017 A-Ha! Much obliged! DirtyComanche/Green Mesa XJ. That is just what I needed. Now that I know what that is called (CAD) i can further research what to do with it. Thanks As far as the other lines that makes sense and all lines accounted for. They are all cut, except fuel lines thankfully, so i need to bend/flare new lines. Now that I know what they go to, it should make it much easier. Green Mesa: Yeah I'm not real sure how the 4wd selector gets reattached to the transmission. I figured worse comes to it, I will take a ride over to where the xj is and take a look at how it is hooked up. I see the arm/actuator, I'm just not sure where/how it bolts up. Sorry to hear about your hurricane troubles. Hope everything remains reasonably dry and intact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant_mant Posted October 8, 2017 Author Share Posted October 8, 2017 Also if anyone is savvy to ignition issues, I started a thread pertaining to mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Mesa XJ Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 The hurricane really was more of a inconvenience for our part of Fla, Mississippi and Alabama got the worst of the storm. The linkage looks something like the, the bracket in the picture is for an automatic. My 5 speed has a much smaller bracket that bolts up after the transfer case with one bolt from transfer case holding it and a bolt further up the transmission. And this is where on the transfer case it connects . Depending how hard it is to remove some remove the selector hardware from the transfer case. You can also get a aftermarket kit to replace the factor links. Boosterwerks I think is the name of one of the companies making it, although it a simple design a jeeper came up with a few years ago.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Yeah, I'd suggest making your own tcase linkage. I would have to find my old phone to get the pics from when I made mine. But it was very simple, just one piece of flat bar with the correct holes in it and a little grinding to shape, a couple rod ends, some threaded rod, and some nuts and bolts. Functions way better than the factory one ever did. Also, since your brake lines are cut you might want to look into deleting the height sensing load valve thinger for the rear brakes. Lots of guys do, as most of them aren't functional at this point anyways. Mine was gone before I got the truck. You will only need one line to the rear brakes that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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