coolwind57 Posted September 1, 2017 Share Posted September 1, 2017 Newbe here. Just bought a 97K mile long box/4.0/Auto, 1989 base model. It has the common non-working front signals. I have been reading prior posts regarding this issue and I'm ready to try replacing the front bulb sockets. A couple of weeks ago I found a post about replacing with the newer upgraded socket/bulbs in later model XJ. These sockets use the newer push-in type bulbs (as apposed to the current, old-style push and rotate-type). I'm heading to the junkyard in the morning and I'm thinking I'll go with these instead of buying the Dorman HELP replacement sockets that some have. Anyhow, for the life of me, I cannot find the post here where a guy used these newer upgraded sockets. I'm just needing to know if there were any issues with them and maybe anything I should be looking out for at the junkyard regarding front signal swap in general. Is it a direct 3-wire cut and connect? Wire colors correspond, etc? Any of you guys done this upgrade? They do have a Comanche there, but it's in pretty bad shape. I did remove the rear sliding glass (by hand, no tools) already and I'm thinking of grabbing that heavier-built rear bumper it has as compared to mine. Speaking of rear glass: Anyone needing the rear glass molding? I have an extra in good shape. Thanks for accepting me, Moderators. Really appreciate this site and looking forward to learning from you Veteran Comanche owners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnj92131 Posted September 1, 2017 Share Posted September 1, 2017 Welcome to the Comanche Club. You may want to search the DIY section for past "How to" articles. My suggestion would be to do the head light relay upgrade for better head light performance. Don't have any input on the turn signal up grade - never done it and don't see a reason to do it. But that is just me. Good score on the sliding rear glass! Was it a 3 pane window or a 4 pane window? 3 pane is original. Again, welcome to the club. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted September 1, 2017 Author Share Posted September 1, 2017 Thanks for the reply. Yes, I am doing it because I have to do something. I just like the newer type of connectors instead of once again returning the sockets to the old fashion push and rotate type. The rear glass I pulled was a three pane. I know guys get told us all of the time, but I did search the "how to" articles and can no longer find the post about these new sockets. That's why I was asking. I was not aware of a headlight relay upgrade, so I'm anxious to look it up. Thanks again for the warm welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyav8r Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 There is/was a write-up on making your own headlight relay harness or you can buy one on eBay. I'm with johnj on this being the No. 1 upgrade you should for your MJ. It will improve the OEM headlight brightness, possibly prevent a fire, extend the life of your headlight switch and prepare for a headlight upgrade - all in one upgrade project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 Yes, the headlight relay harness is a very worthwhile upgrade. Even moreso if you ditch the sealed beam headlights and go with a quality set of H4 composite headlights. After adding the harness my sealed beams were a little bit brighter, but the main benefit is knowing that your headlight switch isn't getting the full current from both headlights, it's just triggering relays for them now. Headlight switches and blower motor switches are the most common source of fires on these trucks. All too often I see a burned up XJ or MJ at the junkyard that seems to have lit up at one of those two places first. I've never really heard of an upgraded turn signal socket as a common thing either. Maybe they're more sealed up from water intrusion? If it is a thing, it's not something you hear about often. If you really need to replace the socket, the stock one should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 Agree, the stock socket using the push/twist to lock-in bulbs provides the most secure connection. The contacts should be shiny clean and lubricated with conductive (not dielectric) grease. Most folks pack dielectric non-conductive grease in the sockets and then wonder why the bulbs are sporadic or don't work at all. Installing the headlamp relay harness is mandatory to protect the inadequate and aged factory wiring harness if using sealed beams, and especially if using halogens because of the increased amp draw. I run LED headlamps and still use the a relay harness even with the decreased amp draw over sealed beams. The stock wiring was under engineered when new, and as old as our rigs are with oxidation and corrosion at every harness pinned connection, impedance is a lot worse 25+ years later. Using an aux relay harness is cheap insurance to prevent overheating and possible wire fires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 If you have the metal sockets, try to get the plastic ones. I used the taillight sockets from the XJs I part out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 The only thing I have to add here is that new sockets are available at the parts stores, I replaced all of mine, wire too. Regrettably, I chucked the 90 degree headlight sockets, standard sockets are too tight, I've yet to find stock ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted September 3, 2017 Author Share Posted September 3, 2017 Totally digging your work. Very clean and I'm super impressed with that CAI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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