cruiser54 Posted October 19, 2016 Posted October 19, 2016 I had put a set of in injectors from dirty jeep guy here on the forums. But I can give it a shot Hang on. Rebuilt injectors? Your fuel pressure is low at idle by 7 pounds.
cruiser54 Posted October 19, 2016 Posted October 19, 2016 It's like 31 to 32 lbs running It's like 31 to 32 lbs running What happens to the pressure when you disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator?
4.0forlife Posted October 19, 2016 Author Posted October 19, 2016 it goes to 39 lbs so i swapped in a set of volvo injectors and it idles better. but the problem still proceeds
cruiser54 Posted October 24, 2016 Posted October 24, 2016 Ever put plugs, wires, cap and rotor on it?
4.0forlife Posted October 24, 2016 Author Posted October 24, 2016 Yes I have done that about 6 months ago Changed cap rotor plugs and wires today with brand new ones. The contact pad on the rotor was twisted like. Almost like it bit on the cap pin and rolled over. So I'll report back once I drive it tomorrow. Side note what plugs are you guys running I had champions but I was told to throw them away and use autolites or bosch ones
SVPete Posted October 26, 2016 Posted October 26, 2016 The plugs I put in when I was working on my issue are AC Delco copper plugs. I went basic. Previous plugs were Autolite double platinum. Not being a big expert and just daily driving my truck (not racing, rock climbing, etc.), not sure if there is a whole lot of difference.
gogmorgo Posted October 26, 2016 Posted October 26, 2016 I like NGK coppers but am currently running Champions (the cheap ones) because I couldn't find the NGK's locally. I don't really care much for the idea of paying $10 per plug, and I'm not sold on the tiny little needle of an electrode the fancy ones have.
4.0forlife Posted October 26, 2016 Author Posted October 26, 2016 Ok so the problem is still there after the plugs wires cap and rotor well i played with some vacuum lines and i think that the problem is solved my lines are pretty bad so i ordered new ones but i hope i can call it fixed.
cruiser54 Posted October 30, 2016 Posted October 30, 2016 well i played with some vacuum lines and i think that the problem is solved my lines are pretty bad so i ordered new ones but i hope i can call it fixed. way to stick with it.
4.0forlife Posted October 30, 2016 Author Posted October 30, 2016 thanks cruiser. i feel really dumb in hindsight being i was asked if it was a vac leak in the beginning. but i never expected it to be in the little distribution block on the intake.
cruiser54 Posted October 30, 2016 Posted October 30, 2016 thanks cruiser. i feel really dumb in hindsight being i was asked if it was a vac leak in the beginning. but i never expected it to be in the little distribution block on the intake. We're all guilty of that at some point. Start with the simple stuff....
omega_rugal Posted October 30, 2016 Posted October 30, 2016 vacuum leaks are a common problem in these engines, why so many hoses? what were they thinking...
cruiser54 Posted October 30, 2016 Posted October 30, 2016 vacuum leaks are a common problem in these engines, why so many hoses? what were they thinking... Emissions compliance......
omega_rugal Posted October 31, 2016 Posted October 31, 2016 emissions and all, everything is vacuum operated, many places where a leak can make you go crazy diagnosing a problem...
4.0forlife Posted November 2, 2016 Author Posted November 2, 2016 Well guys bad news it's back and worse then ever I'm thinking the fuel pumps on the way out
4.0forlife Posted November 2, 2016 Author Posted November 2, 2016 Ok so I tested the fuel pump. Tuning the key on it jumps (can't tell being a one man team) tp around 30-40 area. But it will drop off in a second or two. at idle it's around 32 psi. With the vacuum off it jumps to 40 psi Now with the vacuum on and getting it to do the power loss the psi up near 40. So my fuel pump doesn't seem to be the problem
4.0forlife Posted November 2, 2016 Author Posted November 2, 2016 Ok so my dad started to help me out. I guess he felt bad for me lol. But we disconnected the vacuum hose to the egr and it runs fine hot no problems at all. For some reason the egr opens up a little at low rpms when its at operating temp. So has anyone even had a egr solenoid go bad ?
cruiser54 Posted November 2, 2016 Posted November 2, 2016 Ok so my dad started to help me out. I guess he felt bad for me lol. But we disconnected the vacuum hose to the egr and it runs fine hot no problems at all. For some reason the egr opens up a little at low rpms when its at operating temp. So has anyone even had a egr solenoid go bad ? Not common. It shouldn't open unless the ECU triggers it. Should be easy enough to check. Perhaps it's not closing completely when it's not energized.
4.0forlife Posted November 3, 2016 Author Posted November 3, 2016 How would I go about testing that. The egr and transducer are new.
cruiser54 Posted November 3, 2016 Posted November 3, 2016 The solenoid allows vacuum to pass from one side to the other when energized. Can you suck through the solenoid with the wires unplugged?
4.0forlife Posted November 3, 2016 Author Posted November 3, 2016 I don't think so. The egr isn't open all the time so I doubt the solenoid is letting it through. But that being said what tells the ecu to to tell the solenoid to open. Because it I keep it closed the truck is fine ( at operating temp that is)
cruiser54 Posted November 3, 2016 Posted November 3, 2016 I don't think so. The egr isn't open all the time so I doubt the solenoid is letting it through. But that being said what tells the ecu to to tell the solenoid to open. Because it I keep it closed the truck is fine ( at operating temp that is) ECU tells the solenoid to open. but if it sticks open.....
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