Stroker NO Start now

[dragordie]

Let’s go to the beginning 1996 ZJ 4.0 sent the block out to get magnaflex and bored 30 over.

Parts list comp cam 68-232-8 Keith Black KB944 forged pistons King rod bearings king cam bearings King main bearings single roller chain set Titan Crankshaft titan connecting rods accel plugs wires cap rotor brass freeze plugs high volume Melling oil pump. Ok you get the idea by now I built a 4.7 stroker. First problem was getting it started. When running just as it would go into close loop it would have this crazy idle dropping down to 6 to 800 rpms up to 3k. My bad I didn’t set the camshaft position sensor when dropping in the new distributor. So pulled it out set the crank and cam at TDC 0 degrees pinned the distributor dropped it in and now 10 hours later pulling the distributor timing cover on and off redialing in the cam and crank. Still will not start. Pulled the 5 volt reference on the crank and cam position sensors. They are checking out to be good. Any stroker owners out their that might know what the problem can be?  one other thing when turning the engine over my gages show oil pressure at 60 psi but I have now tack movement.  

[Knucklehead97]

I haven't done a Stroker yet. But if I remember correctly you have to get higher pressure injectors. Did you? Not sure if it would cause a no start, but you never know.

[HOrnbrod]

It should still pop if fuel is getting in the cylinders and you have spark to the plugs. Got the timing gear marks lined up like below at TDC of the #1 cylinder compression stroke?

 

[Eagle]

Are you certain you set the #1 cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke?

[dragordie]

  The injectors I have are 4.7 Stroker Bosch 27lb Fuel Injectors.

I have spun the cam over and over chain off and with the rocker cover off watching

the rise and fall of the rockers on cyl 1 I have done compression checks holding 150 psi with only 2 psi diff on all 6 cyl.

The engine has 10.1. leak down over night test 0 psi lost on all cyl.

 I still don't know why I'm not getting any reference or movement when turning the engine over from the tack.    

[dragordie]

I just hook my timing light up and its hitting 0 degrees on timing mark.

pulled the plugs fuel is getting to them.

[HOrnbrod]

You do have the rotor in the distributor? I've forgotten that a few times........... :doh:

[dragordie]

with all the agervation ive had its not a wonder  i havent forgotten it. but were good with that.

[Comanche County]

Something else to double check, its very easy to mis-stab the dizzy. One tooth off could be the prob... Follow Moses Ludel's steps, they're easy...

 

"Note—On 1991-up MPI engines, the 2.5L distributor’s rotor faces slightly past 3 o’clock when aligned with #1 cylinder’s spark wire lead—not 6 o’clock as with the 1986-90 2.5L TBI engines. Start the 2.5L MPI distributor with the oil pump tang near 10 o’clock to place the rotor at slightly past 3 o’clock with the distributor housing seated. On MPI 4.0L engines, align the oil pump tang near 11 o’clock to place the distributor rotor at 5 o’clock with the distributor housing seated. All settings reflect #1 piston at TDC on its compression stroke."

[gogmorgo]

I've also found that some publications (Haynes manual!) have the wires wrong on the diagram. Note the location of the dizzy cap screws below:

Haynes manual, WRONG!:

 

Correct placement:

The firing order is correct, per se, but the Haynes manual shows #1 cylinder right next to a cap screw, not between the two.

Although if the timing light is right on, this likely isn't your issue. But I did have it rear it's ugly head on me once, and trying to fix it before I realized what happened I got the distributor a couple teeth out.

But since your timing light shows right on 0° a #1TDC maybe not so much? Or isn't there supposed to be at least a bit of advance?

[dragordie]

Valuable information Comanche County and i did follow that proceedure,

 

gogmorgo the top picture is how the cap order is showing in my haynes TJ service book.

 

That's the thing that is bugging the crap out of me I have all the electronics and mechanicals on spot.  

[Eagle]

To reiterate:

 

Are you certain you set the #1 cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke?

[gogmorgo]

gogmorgo the top picture is how the cap order is showing in my haynes TJ service book.

Yes, and it's wrong.

[cruiser54]

This is the way it should be.

 

[HOrnbrod]

I just hook my timing light up and its hitting 0 degrees on timing mark.

pulled the plugs fuel is getting to them.

 

And just how did you do that if it doesn't start? A timing light uses a magnetic pickup on the #1 plug wire to trigger the light when the #1 plug fires. Or are you using one of the old timey lights that hook up in series with the plug wire?

[Eagle]

 

I just hook my timing light up and its hitting 0 degrees on timing mark.

pulled the plugs fuel is getting to them.

 

And just how did you do that if it doesn't start? A timing light uses a magnetic pickup on the #1 plug wire to trigger the light when the #1 plug fires. Or are you using one of the old timey lights that hook up in series with the plug wire?

 

 

If the #1 cylinder is on the exhaust stroke, the spark plug will fire but the engine won't. The #1 cylinder has to be at TDC on the compression stroke when the distributor is installed and oriented.

 

Don't ask me how I know this ...

[cruiser54]

Here's how to avoid that:

http://cruiser54.com/?p=65

[HOrnbrod]

If the #1 cylinder is on the exhaust stroke, the spark plug will fire but the engine won't. The #1 cylinder has to be at TDC on the compression stroke when the distributor is installed and oriented.

Of course.

 

Here's how to avoid that:

http://cruiser54.com/?p=65

No sheite

 

I just hook my timing light up and its hitting 0 degrees on timing mark.

pulled the plugs fuel is getting to them.

 

I'm asking the OP HOW does he know the timing light is pinging on 0* if the engine doesn't start and run?

[DirtyComanche]

 

 

I just hook my timing light up and its hitting 0 degrees on timing mark.

pulled the plugs fuel is getting to them.

 

And just how did you do that if it doesn't start? A timing light uses a magnetic pickup on the #1 plug wire to trigger the light when the #1 plug fires. Or are you using one of the old timey lights that hook up in series with the plug wire?

 

 

If the #1 cylinder is on the exhaust stroke, the spark plug will fire but the engine won't. The #1 cylinder has to be at TDC on the compression stroke when the distributor is installed and oriented.

 

Don't ask me how I know this ...

 

 

I think almost everyone that spend much time messing with engines has done that at some point.

[DirtyComanche]

I'm asking the OP HOW does he know the timing light is pinging on 0* if the engine isn't running?

 

 

As long as it's firing the spark plug, the timing light will show it...  Doesn't have to run.  Just have a helper turn the key, or jump the starter relay, or whatever, and you can see what your timing is while cranking.  It won't show you if it's on the exhaust stroke though.

[HOrnbrod]

I've never been able to do trigger a magnetic pickup timing light by cranking an engine over with the starter. I have though with a test light in series with the wire and ground though. That's why I'm asking the OP how he determined his 0* timing reading.

[DirtyComanche]

Maybe buy a timing light from this century? :rotf:

 

I have a sorta nice digital 'dial back' (there is no dial) that also gives me RPM, and it will do it with no issue.  It instantly rules out lots of bonehead problems, and you know the spark plugs are firing without zapping yourself or anything like that.  I use it for setting advance curves in flyweight and spring junk, and confirming the idle, etc.  Every time I pull it out I have to wipe at least half an inch of dust off it, since I use it so much, but it's sure handy when the time comes. :thumbsup:

[HOrnbrod]

Err, yeah Dirty, that's a distinct possibly. I'm guessing my timing light is like 70's vintage - I've had it forever. Still plays though.  :yes:

[dragordie]

MSD 8992 - Inductive Timing Light. One of my many finest tools 

I don't know how or why but every time I turn the engine over and hit TDC

the rotor is always 180 off. I had contacted the machine shop that bored

my block. and he suggested that I start bumping the cam gear a tooth at a time

advancing the timing if that doesn't work than back a tooth to retard.

He also said with the position on my rotor on TDC my timing gears may not be correct

like a dirt bike add two teeth to the front and take 4 away from the rear.

so I'm going to count the teeth on my old gears and see if the new match up.    

[dragordie]

 Still not running. counted the teeth on cam and crank gears cam (48) crank (24) they match up.

​lets go back to square one. as I have like 30 times in the last 3 weeks.

​pulled the distributor out.

​brought #1 cyl to TDC on compresion stroke

​spun my cam gear around watching until #1 exhaust valve closed and just befor the intake valve opens

​which allowed me to line up the cam/crank dots. cam is at like 4oclock and crank at 10 oclock crank keyway is at 12oclock 

turning the oil pump to 11 and 5 oclock locking in my distributor with a punch and dropping it in at 1oclock to rotate going down to the hold down.

​putting back the cam position sensor my rotors than fasting down my cap.

and                nothing turns over great I  have spark and fuel but will not start.

 

in saving time I have no radiator, timing cover . valve cover and thermostat cover off. temp sensor is immersed in water to prevent that from tripping a code.

And oh yes not codes/ check engine light.. Oh so very confused.