DirtyComanche Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 As it sits in my driveway: Image Not Found (Cell phone pic in the dark) I'm starting the thread perhaps a bit prematurely. I am only planning and debating at this point. But I need to make it properly mobile by fall because I can not have driveway obstructions that don't move. My driveway is 4wd only in the winter, currently this rig is FWD as it has no rear driveshaft and possibly mismatched gear ratios. Firstly, I need to decide what my goal is with this vehicle. There needs to be direction. Unfortunately I am grasping at what that should be. Vehicles I currently have, and what they're for: -11 JK Unlimited - Daily driver, extremely mild wheeling/FSRs, it's got some bolt ons and 33s, winter driver because the heater works AWESOME, decent rig for sleeping in. -99 Dodge Ram Diesel 1 ton - Other daily driver, hauling and tow rig, it's ugly but works very well. Normally I let the insurance lapse in the winter unless I need it, heater does not work at all, but it drives well in the snow. -89 XJ - Dedicated wheeler, cut up with 37s and 1-tons that I'm just polishing up some details on and hopefully will have out of the shop soon. -Misc J-Truck and Dodge parts - Intended to be amalgamated to build a diesel J-Truck to replace my Dodge at some point. Unfortunately the only niches I see are for a very nice cruising/street/summer driver, which this MJ is not in good enough shape to do, or for a winter truck so I can just put my Dodge beside the shop and winterize it. This would stop me from hauling wood/steel/tires/garbage and other junk in my JK, since that's awkward and borderline impossible part of the time. So, unless somebody has a better idea, I'm going to build this into a truck that I can DD in the winter. Unfortunately this isn't the best thing for the longevity of a vehicle, but I'll do what I can. Like I said, it's not in great shape (rockers have holes, holes in the box, etc). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 Firstly, I must decide what I am to do with the suspension and axles, and begin sourcing parts. I think I would like to put a set of 33s on it so it of similar capability to my JK. This is about the minimum that is required to only get stuck in my driveway 25% of the time. I think I would like a 2.5-3.5" lift, and a little trimming, as I think that would be a good compromise for performance but keeping the truck low so it is still useful. As for the rear, the truck has a D35 in it, and there is an XJ D44 sitting in the box. Allegedly it was pulled from the same XJ as the D30 that is in the front (truck was originally 2wd), and I have no reason to doubt that. Unless it turns out the D35 is the same ratio as the D30 in the front, or is the same ratio as one of my spare D30s (I have both a 3.07 and a 3.55 one) it means I must swap the D44 in. Reasonably it probably makes the most sense to just do the D44 swap either way, it's a better axle and I have it. So unless a cherry condition disk brake 8.8 falls into my lap, I will proceed with this being the plan. But, how to get to 3"~ lift in the rear? I suppose I could get some long shackles, an AAL, or something. But I have another thought that needs to be critiqued. How about I go SOA, since the current springs are bagged out anyways, use the lowest profile spring perches I can get, and then replace some of the leafs with ones with less arc than the main leaf? Ideally I would like to add one near full length leaf to increase spring rate somewhat, as I find the factory set things up a little soft. Is this feasible? If it is taller than I want, I have a set of shorter XJ shackles in the shed, but I'd rather not use them as they are too short for the MJ springs, so I'm not sure if that is a good out in the event that things don't go as planned. My leaf spring bushings are also shot, so I will probably order poly ones. I can buy Energy at the parts store, any issues there? For the front I happen to have a set of RE 3.5" XJ springs (IIRC, they're the shortest XJ springs they sell) that I bought for my XJ, but they turned out to be a bit taller than I wanted. I don't know if they would be reasonable, or still taller than I really want. I could perhaps trade them for something else. I have an aftermarket track bar of some sort, and a set of WJ? control arms also, I have no idea if these parts are correct for anything I would be doing but it is worth looking into. More later, I have to go to dinner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 Why not do the SOA with those RE springs? It might be a bit more lift than you want, but it works with what you already have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 Why not do the SOA with those RE springs? It might be a bit more lift than you want, but it works with what you already have. That is the plan. I said they were too tall for my XJ, I don't know how much lift they actually net out to because there is nothing on my XJ that is normal. If I put them in this and they're too tall for it, I can order some 3.5" TJ ones I guess? As the TJ coils should be an inch lower (at least if you buy RE ones that are a different P/N). They should be fine though, providing they are the advertised height. It also occurred to me that I have 2wd rear springs, so they are lower anyways. The truck has quite the pre-runner look (hmm, building a go fast prerunner type truck was an option I didn't consider), and I had assumed it was because there was stuff in the back of it. However, it makes more sense that it has 4wd, maybe even ZJ coils, in the front and 2wd springs in the back. I think I would be best to either buy or build some adjustable lower and probably upper control arms. It seems nobody makes the simple low buck adjustable control arms with poly joints on each end anymore? I guess they went out of style a long time ago. However, they're really all I think I need. Unless somebody knows who makes them, I will do it myself. I think I might put a questions summary on my posts from now on, since like I said, this is a planning thread at this point. That will make it easier for people who skim to not have to read my long winded butchery of Her Majesty's language. Question: Are simple poly bushing adjustable upper/lower control arms still made and sold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 Like this? http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/IR-SHDCA.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 Like this? http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/IR-SHDCA.html They bent those way too much. I think I might order these: https://www.allensoffroad.com/suspension-systems-lift-kits/Core-4X4-Control-Arms/Cherokee-XJ-1986-2001-Core4x4/Core4X4-TIER-ONE-XJ/Front-Control-Arm-Set-TJ-LJ-XJ-MJ Cheaper, not bent crazy, and I can choose from 8 colours!!!! (Even though I'm just going to order black) Or I will build them. Still pricing that. Somebody was selling forged threaded joint bodies, but I don't remember who. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 And the other potential curveball is I know of somebody who has an XJ LA kit installed on their Ranger (don't ask). IIRC it's the Rough Country one. I might be able to buy it for less than it would cost to build. Of course, that's probably a bad idea since it won't fit with only 3.5" of lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 The Iron rock arms are offered straight or bent for the lowers. Unless you want something in between the two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 The Iron rock arms are offered straight or bent for the lowers. Unless you want something in between the two. They list the straight ones as fitting WJs, which IIRC use a wider pocket/bracket and joint, and should not fit an XJ/MJ/TJ/ZJ. And I found somebody who is running the RC LA kit with only 3" of lift. I will see if my friend wants to play ball, which would also be doing the world a favour as his deathtrap should be disassembled before it kills anyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 Thinking about ordering the Procomp 51 series wheels, P/N 51-5866, 15x8 4.5" BS. Why? Because they're the only wheel company that seems to have decided that Canada is a worthwhile market. I'm going to price getting AR767s or Crager Soft 8s, but I can't find anyone that actually stocks them on this side of the line. I'm not crazy about Procomp quality, although I'll admit I've never run anything made by them. These wheels: http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pcw-51-5866/overview/ I can have 4 to my door for just under $500 cnd (not through Summit), which doesn't seem like a deal, but the exchange is what it is and shipping wheels is expensive. Also trying to track down some TJ Rubicon wheels, since I think they would look good and probably are better quality than these, maybe they even weigh less, but I'm not sure how easy that will be to do. I do not have a tire selected and may actually buy new (gasp!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/681010/10002/-1 I bought these a couple years ago when they were pricing them at $50 a peice...but still cheaper than the pro comps and free shipping... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/681010/10002/-1 I bought these a couple years ago when they were pricing them at $50 a peice...but still cheaper than the pro comps and free shipping... There's no free shipping to Canada. One main problem with Jegs is their site won't quote shipping, I actually have to order them and then they email the shipping quote and I can okay it. I might phone them on Monday to ask about it, but I bet the price will be within $20 of the place I can get the Procrap wheels from here, but ordering it from this side of the line means there will be no unexpected brokerage/duty/we'regoingtochargeyoubecauseyoucan'tdoanythingaboutit fees. And I can actually get a confirmed delivery date, unlike when something goes through customs and they can't decide if it's a wheel or part of a nuclear device. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Pioneer Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Shipping to Canada, don't use Jegs, use Summit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 Shipping to Canada, don't use Jegs, use Summit. I was just going to buy the Procraps through T-Dot, people can say what they want about them, but I always price check and most of the time they're basically the same deal as getting it from the US but with way less hassle. But for comparison, I could buy these from Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crr-3995812/overview/ Basically the cheapest Soft 8 that would work. They're silver, which is cheaper than black for some reason. They're still $440 cnd for 4 by the time they get to my door, assuming that all taxes/duties/fees are actually paid upfront as the shipping calculator implies. The advantage of the Soft 8 is it is actually rated for 2200lbs, 400lbs a wheel more than the Procomps. And they're silver, which I haven't decide if that looks better than black, since black is played out. If they were a darker silver, more a charcoal or gunmetal colour, I think I would be all over them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Pioneer Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 I've bought from T dot once, didn't have any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 I've bought from them 5 or so times. Only one minor screwup, which turned out to not matter at all (they shipped something the same day when I wanted them to wait a week). I know some people don't like them for whatever reason. They seem to have a decent deal on RE stuff, and have some pretty oddball things in stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 I had two other thoughts on wheels. Buy 1.25" thick 5x4.5 to 5x5 adapters and run stock JK wheels. Why? Because I have a JK. At least then I'm still sticking with two lug patterns across all my vehicles (5x5 and 8x6.5). Then I could unload all my other oddball stuff and help clean the place up. Adapters are about $300 cnd to my door. I have zero issues with spacers or adapters. Anyways, doing this I can get a set of stock take off JK Rubicon wheels and tires for $500~, and in general used tires and JK wheels are easy to find. Or I could buy a set (5) of steel Pro-Comp 16x8s with 4.25" BS locally, asking $500 and I'm sure he would budge. 2000lb load rating, which is probably good enough, and I have some 16" tires around, and 16" tires are easy to find for the most part. I'm leaning towards this route as it would be easy enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 As far as the control arms goes, if my buddy sells his Danger Ranger rather than parting it out (he's on the fence), I think I will make my own. Lowers: Need 2 of these: http://www.barnes4wd.com/Forged-Poly-Joint_p_419.html 2 of these: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/125TS-SQ.html Half of this set: http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_52_283&products_id=1251 And 2 jam nuts, and 2 short pieces of 2x2x.250 HSS. I actually have the square adapters, probably the bushing sets (I should), the jam nuts, and the HSS on the shelf. So it would be quite cheap. Uppers: Half of this set: http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_52_322&products_id=2610 2 of these: http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=211_215&products_id=2485 2 of these:http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_169&products_id=1305 And 2 jam nuts, and 2 short pieces of 1.75x.120 DOM. I have the jam nuts and adapters for sure, I think I used up the last of my 1.75x.120 DOM. Ruffstuff also sells fork dealios for the upper axle mounts, they're less money but aren't threaded (would need to do things a bit different). We'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 Other things: Brake lines - I plan to use the Dakota line in the rear, and move the front lines down Steering - I think I'll just order up the ZJ tie rod and call it good enough, I will check if everything else is worn out first or not Rear driveshaft - I don't have one, so it will be a matter of it I want to track down a SYE and go to a CV shaft, or just get one of the random shafts I have lying around cut down and balanced (only $150 or so to do that) Track bar - Whatever the aftermarket one that came with the truck is, I will probably use that. Sway bar - I'll probably redrill to move it forward a bit, and just lengthen the stock links by cutting them off and sleeving them. I have some rod ends lying around that might work too. Shocks - ????? Probably look for a KYB that will work. What have I forgot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 23, 2016 Author Share Posted May 23, 2016 I figured I'd price steering parts just so I knew what I'd be getting into. I figured out what tie rod parts I needed, or at least I think, from RockAuto. I phoned the local parts places and they quoted me hideous prices, so that's out. Moog ES3096L is the tie rod at the knuckle (outer, as I would call it), DS1312 is the long tie rod piece (inner) that connects to the drag link, and ES2079S is the adjuster sleeve. However some reading I did alluded that the MJ/XJ drag link had changed between 90- and 91+. So I mucked around looking at part numbers, and it has. The thread went from 20mm to 22mm. But, I can't quite figure out what exactly is what, since Moog's site doesn't seem to have a diagram, and Rockauto typically has less than useful descriptions. Moog DS1238 is the long drag link piece with the outer tie rod. IMHO the adjuster sleeve should be the same ES2079S, as that's a 22mm one. The only thing I can figure looking at things is it must be another ES3096L that connects to the pitman arm. Am I right on the P/Ns for both the V8 ZJ stuff and the newer XJ stuff? For comparison's sake, it's $275 + tax/duty to have this stuff to my door. I think I can buy a universal '1-ton' kit from NWF for about the same price, which begs the question of if I want to deal with reaming knuckles and the pitman arm for the sake of going to even bigger components, especially when I don't anticipate ever needing the strength. It would allow me to go to an inverted-T setup though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 23, 2016 Author Share Posted May 23, 2016 I think I will order two Bilstein 24-188197 shocks for the front. They should be correct for approximately 3" of lift. Hornbrod used Bilstein 33-185606 for his rear, but I think I will wait and look things over a bit better before I even take a guess at what should fit. I will have to look around and see if I have anything on the shelf anyways, there might be something that is workable. I don't feel that the rear will matter as much anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 27, 2016 Author Share Posted May 27, 2016 Made two decisions. I am going to run JK wheels, so 5x4.5 to 5x5 adapters. I'm going to go with the G2 ones because they're cheap. I will buy an AA HD SYE for the 231. I would order both of them right now, but I have some Summit bucks around here somewhere... But I don't know where they went! Why can't they just apply them to your account automatically??? Hmmm, seems I didn't order using my account last time (odd?), so maybe that's why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 Swung a deal on a Truetrac for the D30. Hopefully it's in good shape, but for a case of Coors I don't think I'm going too wrong. Now looking for one for the D44. :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 5, 2016 Author Share Posted June 5, 2016 The Truetrac turned out to be a Trackloc (clutch pack type). I was tempted to still get it but ehh.... Figured it was too good to be true. Might have a line on the correct one if the guy will ever get back to me. But I did track down some tires/wheels. Found these Ipikes in 265/70R17: Image Not Found They should work good for what I want. Also got 5 stock JK P-tires with Moab wheels: Image Not Found I'll probably trade the P-tires to the tire shop in exchange for mounting/balancing the Ipikes, but we'll see. Might find some JK M/T tires and another set of wheels too, so I'll hold off on dealing with the tire shop until I have everything that I plan to do. These are the LCAs that were included with the truck: Image Not Found Yup, not doing much with that. Although I suppose I could cut them down if I wanted. These coils springs were in there too: Image Not Found I don't know what they are but I don't plan to use them. And these 30 spline axle shafts: Image Not Found I'm guessing they're spares for the D44. I'll have to look into it, not really that worried though. Not much else to report. I'm 95% certain I will be getting a RoughCountry long arm setup for very little money, I will know by tomorrow night. It's missing a few bits, but all the big pieces are there, and it looks like all the joints are still in good shape. Yes, I still haven't taken pictures of the truck, or actually done any work on it. :rotfl2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 5, 2016 Author Share Posted June 5, 2016 Just to give everyone an idea how terrible the body/bodywork actually is... Image Not Found Holes, bondo, bondo over holes, rusting from the backside: Image Not Found More holes: Image Not Found Holes, bondo, ah, you know what I'm talking about: Image Not Found More of the same: Image Not Found Has some sway bar links from something else???? Image Not Found Ooo, a random switch and fuse, just hanging out there. Image Not Found There is an engine in there: Image Not Found Anyways, still gotta finish the XJ before I do anything with this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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