Steering box spacer

[benjy_26]

Hello all. I'm about to drop in power steering into my 87 SporTruck (2.5L) and have been looking at replacing the chintzy aluminum factory spacer with something more substantial. I've been eyeballing the C Rok unit. Any recommendations or suggestions? BTW, I'll be using a ZJ box and plan on installing a power steering cooler in line with the return hose.

[Eagle]

It's only a spacer. What's wrong with the factory unit?

[benjy_26]

It's aluminum, tends to crack, corrodes when exposes to steel and water, and it's an oportunity to beef up my truck a little for not a large amount of cash.

[Tykerp]

I installed the c-rok kit. It looks nice and bolts in. My frame developed small crack and my welder is having some warranty work done to it. To keep it from getting worse I ordered the c-rok kit due to it being bolt in. It is a nice setup and you will be happy with it. 

[benjy_26]

I installed the c-rok kit. It looks nice and bolts in. My frame developed small crack and my welder is having some warranty work done to it. To keep it from getting worse I ordered the c-rok kit due to it being bolt in. It is a nice setup and you will be happy with it.

Thanks for the info!

[Nofeartoys]

Jcr makes a upgrade spacer for steering box also. $49 plus shipping http://www.jcroffroad.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/XJSTSPC_405x270.jpg

[benjy_26]

How's the general quality of the JCR stuff?

[daking]

the aftermarket spacers are all the same. A metal plate with 3 round spacers (cut pipe). Any of them will be better the the factory unit. Not much can go wrong.  

[64 Cheyenne]

Jcr makes a upgrade spacer for steering box also. $49 plus shipping http://www.jcroffroad.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/XJSTSPC_405x270.jpg

 

I have this, installing it now, well sort of, along with other goodies, then plan on a major update on my 88 build thread. My point is, the 4th hole doesn't line up, no big deal, gonna set the box in place drill through existing hole in frame for proper location and call it good. Thing I like is that it picks up another hole for better structural strength, ties in to the winch bumper plate on the other side. Real strong.

[xjrev10]

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10505.html

 

Combine this with the brace. I'd even do it on a stock truck.

[64 Cheyenne]

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10505.html

 

Combine this with the brace. I'd even do it on a stock truck.

 

But this one is just a spacer, it does not have a forth hole for increased structural strength.

[benjy_26]

 

 

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10505.html

 

Combine this with the brace. I'd even do it on a stock truck.

But this one is just a spacer, it does not have a forth hole for increased structural strength.

I have to check to see if the 4 hole spaces will work for me, as I'll be installing a Boostwerks steering brace at the same time.

[xjrev10]

 

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10505.html

Combine this with the brace. I'd even do it on a stock truck.

 

 

But this one is just a spacer, it does not have a forth hole for increased structural strength.

Why would you need to do that? This is direct beefy replacement for the broken aluminum one. But you must combine with the brace too. It's just a plate that goes on the outside of the uniframe rail that grabs every available hole it can. There are better choices for this plate out there in my opinion, that grab onto the sway bar mounting holes but I think that's WAY overkill.

[xjrev10]

 

 

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10505.html

Combine this with the brace. I'd even do it on a stock truck.

But this one is just a spacer, it does not have a forth hole for increased structural strength.

I have to check to see if the 4 hole spaces will work for me, as I'll be installing a Boostwerks steering brace at the same time.

That ultimate steering brace? Holy smokes that thing is beef. I'd spend the few extra 100 and get a redneck ram hydro assist and just be done. That will take all the stress of steering off the uni frame, and put the stress on the axle.

[benjy_26]

I don't think I'll need something super beefy, as I've only got 31's and do absolutely NO rock crawling.

[xjrev10]

I don't think I'll need something super beefy, as I've only got 31's and do absolutely NO rock crawling.

New spacer and the plate for the unibody is all you need. Every XJ/MJ I get from now on is getting them. Ripping a steering box out is no fun. Can never have enough ragitiy to that area of your truck, even if you're sticking with 31s.

[daking]

Steering box mounting is an issue on many 4X4's. Frame cracking, ripping holes and so on are actually common in many different off road trucks. It is important to strengthen the mounting of the box.

 

This is what I have done so far. (NOTE: These are not my pictures, just using as a reference)  

 

On mine it is the front bumper mount that adds beef to the outside frame.

 

 

 

I'm debating on adding the boost works brace too. But I'm trying to keep the front of my truck light. 

 

http://www.boostwerksengineering.com/The-Ultimate-XJ-Steering-Brace_p_8.html

[benjy_26]

 

Steering box mounting is an issue on many 4X4's. Frame cracking, ripping holes and so on are actually common in many different off road trucks. It is important to strengthen the mounting of the box.

 

This is what I have done so far. (NOTE: These are not my pictures, just using as a reference)

 

On mine it is the front bumper mount that adds beef to the outside frame.

 

 

 

I'm debating on adding the boost works brace too. But I'm trying to keep the front of my truck light.

 

http://www.boostwerksengineering.com/The-Ultimate-XJ-Steering-Brace_p_8.html

It's not that heavy, when you consider it's a brace, an extra bearing for your sector shaft, a mini skid, AND a recovery point.

[DirtyComanche]

The bearing supports for the sector shafts are a gimmick.  Yes, they're popular, people say they work wonders, but hear me out.  Once you're seeing the levels of force required for it to be doing anything, you will instead see a torsional failure of the sector shaft.  The way the box is built from the factory it is very capable of taking the load applied to it, as well, that's what it was designed to do.  You won't see a failure of the frame rail with it properly plated on each side; beyond that you need hydro assist or better.

[benjy_26]

The bearing supports for the sector shafts are a gimmick. Yes, they're popular, people say they work wonders, but hear me out. Once you're seeing the levels of force required for it to be doing anything, you will instead see a torsional failure of the sector shaft. The way the box is built from the factory it is very capable of taking the load applied to it, as well, that's what it was designed to do. You won't see a failure of the frame rail with it properly plated on each side; beyond that you need hydro assist or better.

The sector shaft bearing (and the skid plate aspect) were not my primary concern when purchasing that piece, to be honest. What really hooked me was the ability to tie in both sides of the frame and having integrated tow points up front without necessarily swapping out my stock bumper.

[75sv1]

Iron Rock and possibly other make a brace for the WJs that tie together the rails at the track bar. It is suppose to take care of death wobble in them. I do have a cheap $35 steering box brace off of ebay from Dayton OH. in my XJ. Can't comment either way. From posts I've read some of the bracing shifts the stress to another area on the frame. I bought mine to put on a Durango box. I just rebuilt one, I had laying around. It will probably go on the MJ.

[64 Cheyenne]

 

 

 

 

^^^ This is my issue with the spacer, 3 holes or 4? Three holes, and it's just a beefy spacer. Four holes and its a stronger steering box mount/spacer because it's bolted through the frame to whatever you have on the other side (like mine will be, I'm in this process right now with the 88 along with a winch bumper). My 4 hole spacer when mounted to the box, has no adjustment because of the three steering box holes in the frame, then causes the the fourth hole to not line up. Are you not using the fourth hole? My plan, bolt up the three, drill across from the outside, pick up the fourth. Kind of think not using the fourth hole gives away structural strength.

[DirtyComanche]

 

 

 

 

 

^^^ This is my issue with the spacer, 3 holes or 4? Three holes, and it's just a beefy spacer. Four holes and its a stronger steering box mount/spacer because it's bolted through the frame to whatever you have on the other side (like mine will be, I'm in this process right now with the 88 along with a winch bumper). My 4 hole spacer when mounted to the box, has no adjustment because of the three steering box holes in the frame, then causes the the fourth hole to not line up. Are you not using the fourth hole? My plan, bolt up the three, drill across from the outside, pick up the fourth. Kind of think not using the fourth hole gives away structural strength.

 

 

Weld that plate on if you want it to be really making a difference.  The 4th hole is too far away for it to matter anyways, given the direction of the forces that are being applied to it, if you're just to bolt it on.

 

That said, as long as the other side has a plate on it, and the holes are to a reasonable tolerance (something the factory got wrong), you should be fine with it just bolted on there.  I would slip (read that as file or die grind) the holes in the frame so that plate can be aligned correctly to use the 4th hole...  Then make sure the plate on the outside is drilled absolutely correctly for where the holes need to be.

 

Most guys were seeing loss of torque on the bolts before they really started tearing up their frame.  The poor tolerances of the factory holes along with the aluminum spacer deteriorating were often to blame.  Also, remember that just because a bolt feels tight, as in it can't easily be removed, does not mean it actually has the correct torque (tension) on it; instead it may simply be seized into the steering box or retained by the factory thread locker.  The factory steering box bolts also featured high tolerance hardened washers for a reason, it was the band-aid for the poor tolerance on the holes, be sure you retain them.

 

The other real big secret, which I don't know of the aftermarket actually addressing (I don't buy fabricated parts much, so I am not always up on what is available), is to tie the outer steering box brace into the bracket for the track bar.  I don't have a picture of how it is done on my XJ, and I am packaging things differently than most people would, but the whole point is that as your steering is pushing the axle around, the same force is transmitted back through the track bar, so by tying the two of them together you are addressing the critical area.  Most aftermarket track bar brackets are a garbage clone of the factory design, which was adequate for the intended usage and lifespan of the vehicle, however it is less than ideal when larger/heavier tires/wheels/axles are thrown at the vehicle.  Mine is tied in from the 4 factory attachment points plus all of the steering box bolt holes and bumper/tow hook holes (and I welded the thing on).  Basically, I don't want excessive movement in this area, as it is a high stress area, and movement will result in metal fatigue and lose of torque on fasteners.