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Need New Ball Joints?


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I was told by my mechanic that I need new upper and lower ball joints for my '91 Comanche, and he recommended OEM over any aftermarket stuff.  He quoted me $300 for the labor to do the work if I provide the parts, and he actually recommended I get the parts from the dealership.  I have the Dana 30 front axle with the vacuum disconnect, and I have been having problems with the vacuum pressure or something because my "part-time 4wd" light flickers on and off.  I was going to try and tackle a version of the CAD fix myself by flipping the disconnect upside down and plugging the vacuum lines, but now I wonder if I should go ahead and have someone install a non-disconnect axle shaft from a newer XJ.  If I install a new axle shaft will I still need the new ball joints or are they unrelated?  Sorry for the newb question and thanks for any help or clarification you guys can provide.

 

-Ross

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I have a NOS set of Mopar upper and lower Mopar ball joints I have not installed yet. But they are actually Dana Spicer products. The p/n below on the plastic bag (701059X) is a Dana Spicer number. That number is also stamped on the ball joint itself. So go with Spicer and save some $$.
 
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So if I replace the passenger and driver side 2-piece axle shafts with solid 1-piece shafts and plug the vacuum lines, that will essentially delete my disconnect system?  Is that in any way related to my ball joints?  I mean, should I just get it all done at the same time or are they two distinct problems?

 

I found these two threads among others and I'm trying to understand it all with my feeble mechanical knowledge.

http://www.wranglerboard.com/f32/center-axle-disconnect-replacements-264/

http://www.wranglerboard.com/f32/explanation-vacuum-cad-workaround-4wd-light-vacuum-bypass-270/

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The ball joints are mostly unrelated to the axle shaft, although I'm pretty confident you need to pull the shaft to get clearance to replace the ball joints. If you look at your front axle, there's a C-shape at each end, where it attaches to the steering knuckle. The ball joints are in the tips of the C's, and allow the wheels to pivot when you steer.

 

So while yes, in some ways if you needed to replace the shaft, it would be better to do it while it's already out, instead of having to pull it all apart again. But at the same time, in order to do a proper job of replacing the two-piece shaft with the one-piece, you need to pop open the pumpkin and remove the differential to install the correct seal, into a surface that may not be properly machined for a seal. You can for sure just shove the single-piece shaft into the housing, but you'll be constantly losing oil out of your diff, and you open it up to water and crap getting in.

 

The permanent CAD lock DIY on the other hand requires no new parts or seals, doesn't require pulling the differential and is just as reliable (if not more so) than your current setup. It's definitely less work. You don't even need to pull out the shaft.

 

Edit: just read your last post, guess you got it out before I started typing mine. The two-piece shaft is only on the passenger side. But in order to put in the correct seal, you would still need to pull both shafts to get the differential out.

 

Here's a link to the permanent CAD lock. Super simple. Pictures help.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/

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Wow awesome and quick replies, thanks guys.  I guess I'll order the mopar/spicer joints and let my guy replace them for me, and then I'll attempt the CAD fix myself.  I may have some questions on the CAD fix options because I've read of several ways to tackle that, but I'll post them over on that thread when I get after it.  Thanks again.

 

-Ross

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These are best: http://amzn.to/1TLwBG9- it's nice that it's a kit of upper & lower, all you need. Way cheaper than OEM (same part, different box). Some other cheaper ones won't fit right even though they say they're for a certain application.

 

 

 

The Spicer ball joints from Amazon are the best way to go. High quality and priced well. You will need two kits to do both sides.

 

Thanks guys, I appreciate the info!

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The longevity of the Synergy joints is still unknown at this point. Seems that most of the reviews are based on folks who don't daily drive their Jeep, my father is one of them. I doubt they will last 2-3 times longer than Spicer as you would expect from the price. Even Jeep guru 'mr. blaine' recommends Spicer over the high dollar options.

 

Moog ball joints didn't last 8k miles in my TJ.

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