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8.8 lsd or not lsd


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What's up fellas

This is for my Cherokee but I know I'll get more responses here than another forum....

I'm on a search for a 4.10 8.8 but I'm indecisive wether to get an lsd or not....

Obviously any would be good for me....I can always drop in an Aussie to an open carrier or just "try" and rebuild an lsd carrier.....

 

What are your guys intake on this?

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I bought an 8.8 with 185k miles on it with the limited slip. I figured with that kind of mileage the carrier would need rebuilt or replaced. But holy smoke, it is almost like a Detroit is installed. It will occasionally chirp in parking lots and always hooks up in the dirt. It was even squealing the inside tire when taking the super tight switchbacks on HWY550 south of Ouray CO.

 

My thought is why wouldn't you pick an 8.8 with limited slip. The axle cost is generally the same as one with an open carrier. If you find you would rather have a locker, the cost of a full case locker really isn't much more than an Aussie or the like.

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Ok cool....

The Cherokee sees a lot of daily driving use and mild weekend wheeler...

(The same goes for my Comanche but that has an amc 20 awaiting an Aussie....)

I will consider the lsd there's over 20 explorers at the local jy hopefully I find the lsd one...

Last Friday I checked a few (4-5) all has 3.73s and 1 with an lsd....

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My thought is why wouldn't you pick an 8.8 with limited slip. The axle cost is generally the same as one with an open carrier. If you find you would rather have a locker, the cost of a full case locker really isn't much more than an Aussie or the like.

 

because you can drop a 300 buck locker into an open carrier. you can't do that with a LS carrier.  :thumbsup:

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My thought is why wouldn't you pick an 8.8 with limited slip. The axle cost is generally the same as one with an open carrier. If you find you would rather have a locker, the cost of a full case locker really isn't much more than an Aussie or the like.

 

because you can drop a 300 buck locker into an open carrier. you can't do that with a LS carrier.  :thumbsup:

 

 

I always heard the carriers were one of the weakest links of the 8.8's & you shouldnt put a lunchbox locker in it, Unless its very light use?

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tis true.  but also is a relative statement.  the rest of an 8.8 is very strong.  The 8.8 carrier is still much stronger than a dana 35 carrier and people still lock that up.  plus keep in mind that the 8.8 is typically found behind v8s and under fullsize trucks.  I wouldn't worry about it unless rock bouncing is in your future. :thumbsup:  

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My thought is why wouldn't you pick an 8.8 with limited slip. The axle cost is generally the same as one with an open carrier. If you find you would rather have a locker, the cost of a full case locker really isn't much more than an Aussie or the like.

 

because you can drop a 300 buck locker into an open carrier. you can't do that with a LS carrier.  :thumbsup:

 

A new ford 8.8 Open Carrier can be had for a song.  Not really a big deal

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Comes down to whether you can live with a LB on the street (sucks), that's the reason I have one for sale in classifieds (selling for a friend). My self, I got all the stuff to do my own R&P, and have regeared, and rebuilt CPs in both my 8.8s LSD diffs. Highly recommend an LSD for any street use. I have a LB up front, LSD in the back, it's all I've ever needed here in mt.

On a side note, people make diff work out to be a black art, it's not. I pieced my stuff together, did the research and had at it. The last one I did, getting rid of my friends LB in his 8.8, he gave me this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARRIER-BEARING-PULLER-DANA-30-40-60-70-FORD-9-/251658285461?hash=item3a9800b195 maybe people could pool resources, one friend buy a press, somebody buy the puller, etc.

Took me about 4hrs, axle out of the vehicle, start to finish, would have been a lot faster if I was the one who put the LB in, it would have made taking it back out a lot easier.

Yup, if it wasn't for CC, ....I'd still have more $$$$ :doh:

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I'm not in the "black arts" crowd, but it is one of the most complicated tasks you can do in a Jeep.  It requires specialty tools, lots of time, and if you screw it up bad it can ruin the entire diff.  It's not for the novice and so I can't bring myself to suggest it without a whole paragraph of ifs, buts, and caveats. 

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I bought an 8.8 with 185k miles on it with the limited slip. I figured with that kind of mileage the carrier would need rebuilt or replaced. But holy smoke, it is almost like a Detroit is installed. It will occasionally chirp in parking lots and always hooks up in the dirt. It was even squealing the inside tire when taking the super tight switchbacks on HWY550 south of Ouray CO.

 

My thought is why wouldn't you pick an 8.8 with limited slip. The axle cost is generally the same as one with an open carrier. If you find you would rather have a locker, the cost of a full case locker really isn't much more than an Aussie or the like.

How much $ do you have tied into your swap?

I've been reading online of guys going over 1k

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How much $ do you have tied into your swap?

I've been reading online of guys going over 1k

$1K for an axle swap!?!?

 

The 8.8 swap cost me about $500, but I will admit the e-brake is not hooked up. The axle was the most expensive part, from a salvage yard in Topeka, KS @ $300. I probably could have found an axle for much cheaper on craigslist, but this one had a warranty and was exactly what I wanted. I had to buy new brake lines (the Ford line screws into the MJ hard line), calipers, pads and rotors (Amazon prime was a money saver here) as well as the swap kit (I used the Ruffstuff kit with ubolts, perch, and plate). I also had to use an extra set of shock brackets I had at the house as the brackets with the Ruffstuff kit were way too short to use spring under. I found a set of used spidertrax spacers for sale on another forum which saved some serious $$$. You will need the Spicer 8.8 companion flange to allow the Jeep drive shaft to bolt up to the axle, they cost around $35-45 and a couple quarts of 75w-140 gear oil. If you can buy a complete axle with rotors, calipers and hoses included, I imagine the swap could be done for about 1/2 of what it cost me. When selecting your axle perch, make sure it is one that can allow the axle to sit 1" back. This will allow you to keep the stock driveshaft within operating clearances (might not be needed if you go SOA, but I cannot speak from experience here).

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I would imagine that the cost is semi-relative to how complete the axle you purchase is, swap kit (or associated swap parts), re-gearing/locker, new yoke/flange/adapter whatever, replacing/buying new parts that are necessary, and labor cost. 

 

Rundown of the cost of my Exploder 8.8 swap.

 

FREE : 8.8 axle, 3.73, LSD..complete with all brakes, practically new-ish, even the park brake cables. Even U-bolts and spring plates. 

20$    : Lubelocker diff cover gasket .. HIGHLY recommend, no more RTV, no more wasted time cleaning.

~25$  : 2 QT Amsoil Severe-gear 75W-140 Full Syn Gear oil, and a bottle of the "POSI" goop

FREE : Spring perches, given to me by a friend

2$      : Brake fluid

150$  : Labor at my buddy's shop, included cutting, prepping, welding, and companion flange adapter

9-18$ : Driver side ZJ park brake cable (This may double pending how well I can get the park brake adjusted with the pass/long side exploder cable

I guess I should add the cost of my wheel adapters, even though I purchased them to run my JK wheels before I even did the 8.8 swap. It was 70$ for a set of (4) Used, good condition wheel adapters and some new lug nuts. 

 Approx Total cost 206-215$ (285$ with the wheel adapters)

Even if I ended buying an 8.8 Exploder axle it would have been 150$ same gearing, etc. So, that would put it at about 365$

Interestingly enough, most of the stuff I purchased was not from the parts store I work at. 

 

I guess I will also add, if you are thinking/wanting to run JK, or other style wheel with a different bolt pattern, do it at the same time and get the correct adapter/spacer etc. just so you do not spend that money twice. 

 

I bought an 8.8 with 185k miles on it with the limited slip. I figured with that kind of mileage the carrier would need rebuilt or replaced. But holy smoke, it is almost like a Detroit is installed. It will occasionally chirp in parking lots and always hooks up in the dirt. It was even squealing the inside tire when taking the super tight switchbacks on HWY550 south of Ouray CO.

My thought is why wouldn't you pick an 8.8 with limited slip. The axle cost is generally the same as one with an open carrier. If you find you would rather have a locker, the cost of a full case locker really isn't much more than an Aussie or the like.


How much $ do you have tied into your swap?
I've been reading online of guys going over 1k

 

 

 

 

How much $ do you have tied into your swap?
I've been reading online of guys going over 1k


$1K for an axle swap!?!?

 

The 8.8 swap cost me about $500, but I will admit the e-brake is not hooked up. The axle was the most expensive part, from a salvage yard in Topeka, KS @ $300. I probably could have found an axle for much cheaper on craigslist, but this one had a warranty and was exactly what I wanted. I had to buy new brake lines (the Ford line screws into the MJ hard line), calipers, pads and rotors (Amazon prime was a money saver here) as well as the swap kit (I used the Ruffstuff kit with ubolts, perch, and plate). I also had to use an extra set of shock brackets I had at the house as the brackets with the Ruffstuff kit were way too short to use spring under. I found a set of used spidertrax spacers for sale on another forum which saved some serious $$$. You will need the Spicer 8.8 companion flange to allow the Jeep drive shaft to bolt up to the axle, they cost around $35-45 and a couple quarts of 75w-140 gear oil. If you can buy a complete axle with rotors, calipers and hoses included, I imagine the swap could be done for about 1/2 of what it cost me. When selecting your axle perch, make sure it is one that can allow the axle to sit 1" back. This will allow you to keep the stock driveshaft within operating clearances (might not be needed if you go SOA, but I cannot speak from experience here).

 

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87warrior-

Considering most of the guys who has paid over $1k usually regear the axles anyways and most don't have the lsd....so lockers are always an added cost....

 

Brakes are my biggest concern...

I see guys had to bend new hardlines

Problems with e-brake cables....I have a 5speed so I'll need those

I haven't seen a true detailed write up on the whole 8.8 swap...maybe I'm just over thinking it but I'd like to have the xj on the road on a weekends worth of work....

 

Crash-

thanks for the info...gives me insight on what to look for also

I am looking into getting some 5x4.5 17" d-windows to save on cost of tires....

I've bought most of my tires on Craigslist and for a steal but that's long periods of searching....(15" wheels)

17" tires of mud terrains (33-37s) can go for about $300 with 60-80% thread....because of people not liking the noise these type of tires make...it's a lot of city driving here and most are mall crawlers

Yes adapters may be cheaper but I don't want to run jk bolt pattern wheels....I think it's too much of an hassle...

 

Overall I'm just going to wait for a 4.10 lsd....

 

By any chance did you guys have to rebend new hard lines or the current lines at that....

And what's with the double passenger soft line?

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The double soft line is on the driver side of the Ford axle. Instead of a soft line going to a distribution block on the axle, like Jeep, Ford molded the distribution block the soft line for the caliper and the soft line to the frame side steel line, the other side of the block is threaded for the passenger side hardline. Obviously this will not allow you to run an extended brake line designed for Jeep which is probably why you see a lot of guys building custom brake lines. When I was researching the swap, somewhere on a Ford forum, I found the part number for a long soft brake line that would simply work as an extension. Several guys running lifted Explorers used it. Naturally I don't remember the part number as the replacement Ford soft line had plenty of slack for my truck.

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Would you happen to have pics of your set up?

 

I was searching through some of the forums and seen one where a guy with a tj bought from ecgs and used the stock jeep distribution block and hard lines to the soft lines....

 

Here are some of the pics....

 

 

 

 

 

The question is do the brake nuts(don't remember the name)from the jeep hard line fit into the ford soft line....

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Yes, the Ford brake line will thread onto the existing Jeep hard line.

 

Here is mine pieced together, all stock Ford parts bolted to the main Jeep hard line. I did add a few tabs on the axle to hold the brake line more securely.

 

Heck, I don't see why you couldn't use stock Jeep lines from a disc brake axle. As far as I know and have experienced, Ford and Jeep use the same size fittings for their brake lines and calipers. I have Ford calipers on the front of my TJ as part of the Vanco brake kit and used my existing brake lines with them.

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  • 5 weeks later...

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