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I just purchased my first jeep an well I drove it home guy said no leaks I looked there was none to the naked eye. As soon as I pull in to car port. Low an behold a leak so I crawl under an notice it seems to be coming from where the tranny mates with the motor. Any ideas on how to fix this asap. Since I bought this Lil truck to be my work truck.

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All of this is assuming it's a 4.0L truck with the original engine (or at least an engine made between 1987 and 1992). Please tell us what year, engine, etc you have. It will make diagnosing things much easier.

 

People will be very quick to say "rear main seal". Take it from me that it's a horrible, nasty job to do with the engine in the truck so you want to eliminate these things first. Keep in mind that the engine is tilted up, so oil will run down the block and drip from where the engine meets the transmission. You can't diagnose it strictly based on where the oil is coming from.

 

1. Valve cover gasket. Feel around the back of the valve cover. If you get oil on your hand, replace it. Easy. Use the rubber Fel-Pro gasket. Extremely common to leak from this area.

2. Oil filter adapter O-rings. Look for oil around the piece that connects the oil filter to the block. An extremely common leak but pretty easy to fix. Assuming it doesn't have a post-1992 engine swapped in, use this (click me). The part that the parts stores sell will not work, no matter how many people tell you it will.

3. Oil pressure sending unit. It's right next to the oil filter and has a wire coming out of it. Take it out and wrap some teflon tape on it.

4. Distributor mounting gasket. Look for oil where the distributor meets the engine block. The gasket costs about 4 dollars. Fel-Pro 70051.

 

Once you've replaced all of those, suspect the rear main seal. But not before. I'd rather spend the ~60 bucks all of the above fixes will cost you before doing the rear main seal.

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gear oil can be black. Others are smarter than me on this but I will chime in. You can check your gear oil by opening the fill port and sticking your finger in to get a sample and compare. 

 

If it is your gear oil, you'll have to pull the transmission, remove the bellhousing, then remove the input seal retainer (small plate on the face of the transmission) then swap seals. You won't have to touch your clutch but you might ought to think about putting on a new one while you're in there. 

 

Mine leaks pretty bad but only when the engine is warm. 

 

I'm not sure if your AX-15 has a vent line but if it does, you might check if that is blocked. Others might chime in here as I have the older style which does have a vent line (mine was not clogged). 

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How do I check if it is gear oil? Because what is coming out is black as hell an the motor oil is still clear. So can it be gear oil? An how do I go about fixing this?

 

Smell it. Due to it's high sulfur content it smells like rotted out garbage.

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Thank you imma run down to the nearest auto store an pick up some gear oil an keep it topped off until I can afford the repairs needed

also is it normal when I fill up my gas tank that when the nozzle clicks off a Lil bit of gas is underneath my truck vent maybe? I don't know

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The OP said in post #3, he has an "inline 4." I assume that he has a 2.5L 4 cyl. That means he has either an AX4 (4spd) or AX5 (5spd). So all references to an AX15 may not apply.

 

The oil coming through the bellhousing could be dirty from the dirt that accumulates in the BH. Smelling it may have a sulfer scent. That would tell if it is gear oil or motor oil. However, the PO put in motor oil, then it would not pass the "sniff test."

 

If the OP doesnt know when the trans oil was changed previously, it is a good time to change it. Measure how much comes out. Compare that amount with how much it holds. Look that up on line based on the trans. That may indicate a leak in the trans.

 

If the oil out is approx. the correct volumn, then go back to the valve cover, oil filter adapter, oil pressure unit, dizzy.

 

To change a RMS, it is MESSY, time consuming and MESSY. I doesnt require a lot of special tools. Mostly sockets sets, jackstands, rubber mallet and about 6 hours (if you have never done this before.)

 

Oh, did say it is MESSY!

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The AX4/5 share the same brass type synchro as the AX15 ... Buy the cheap off the shelf gear oil. Do NOT buy the super fancy stuff (aka GL5). The EP additives in GL5 are known to dissolve yellow metals (aka BRASS).

Do not follow the FSM when it recommends GL5 (as it did for years, until 93 when Chrysler simply inserted a page correction rather than a reprint). How this never became a recall is beyond me as the whole issue stems from their own factory mandated lube specs. But that is another topic for another day.

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yeah I made sure I read another thread about the yellow metals an gl5 being bad so I was going for just plain cheap stuff in the mean while till I can afford fixing the manche. Checked motor oil still at the same levels so I think it is safe to assume tranny?

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yeah I made sure I read another thread about the yellow metals an gl5 being bad so I was going for just plain cheap stuff in the mean while till I can afford fixing the manche. Checked motor oil still at the same levels so I think it is safe to assume tranny?

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I am not sure of the oil level in a 2.5 (4.0 is 6 qts.)  The little bit of oil dripping out from any leak would hardly be noticeable on the dip stick.  For the trans oil level, I would still suggest draining the old gear oil and measure how much came out.  My searching shows the AX5 (like the 15) takes 3.3 qts.  I you get less then 3 qts. there's your problem.

 

If it is the trans, dropping it and the tcase are fun!  Buy a trans jack.

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Yup yup it will be fun if it is indeed the tranny does anyone know what sockets sizes I need I just moved states last week an well 95% of my tools are away from me. Any here from utah, willing to lend a hand or advice I'm more of a visual learner.

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Ooh, ooh, I'm pretty sure I know this one: The 231 transfer case takes ATF-4.

Dextron 3 or equivalent , ATF + 4 came later .

I'm pretty sure any of the ATF's work fine. some people run 10w30 motor oil. I put ATF4 in mine.

I guess it's a preference then . I've always used dextron with no issues and some of my tcases have many miles .

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