Darren Posted June 4, 2007 Posted June 4, 2007 With 6.5 inches of lift will i need a SYE and CV driveshaft? am i soposed to adjust for this in my spring over?
JeepcoMJ Posted June 4, 2007 Posted June 4, 2007 With 6.5 inches of lift will i need a SYE and CV driveshaft? am i soposed to adjust for this in my spring over? yes, correct the yoke angle by angling it upwards while you SOA the axle. at most you MAY need to space your tranny down an inch, but that's highly unlikely with the wheel base of even a shortbed comanche.
Twisty Posted June 4, 2007 Posted June 4, 2007 I have about 6.5" in the rear, and have no SYE, and no vibs. I do have a LWB though.
Oizarod115 Posted June 4, 2007 Posted June 4, 2007 what he meant was NO you don't need a SYE but you may need a slightly longer D/S unless you're swappin to a D44 at the same time, cause they have longer pinions like he said, if you get vibes then try a t-case drop or re-checking the pinion angle
JOMJ87 Posted June 4, 2007 Posted June 4, 2007 If its a stock D44 you will need to lengthen it or find a D35 driveshaft. I had to lengthen mine about 1.75"s and i went around 7"s of lift total with my D35. Now that I'm putting in a D44 i may have to go back stock or shorten my shaft. Just some info for you to consider. Cole
Darren Posted June 4, 2007 Author Posted June 4, 2007 i've got a stock 44, so i'll need to lengthen it about 1.75" and set the pinion angle and thats it? can i do a transfercase drop to avoid lengthening the shaft?
DirtyComanche Posted June 4, 2007 Posted June 4, 2007 Tcase drops suck. But no, you'd need to get the shaft lenghtened even with one. Most likely. Well, it's really a 'try it and see' sort of thing. You just have to make sure you have enough yoke engagement or your day will get crappy. While you can get away without a SYE, I'd highly recommend a one if you're 'ugly' with things. The stock mainshaft leaves a bit to be desired. As in it likes to go 'pop' at inoppertune times.
Pete M Posted June 4, 2007 Posted June 4, 2007 At the very least, you need to change the U-joints in the shaft. Old joints don't like changes in their operating angles and that can lead to vibrations. Another point is that it's easier to shorten a D-shaft than lengthen one, so I would seek out a longer one (any 2wd MJ one works) and cut it to size. Do you have an auto or manual trans?
ORCA Posted June 4, 2007 Posted June 4, 2007 I have about 6.5" in the rear, and have no SYE, and no vibs. I do have a LWB though. Ditto. :cheers:
Pete M Posted June 5, 2007 Posted June 5, 2007 If I remember right (someone correct me if I'm wrong) the auto trans is a bit longer than the stick and hence the D-shaft would be a bit shorter than the stick one. Might be the perfect length for you. Anyone know the measurement differences off the top of their head?
DirtyComanche Posted June 5, 2007 Posted June 5, 2007 If I remember right (someone correct me if I'm wrong) the auto trans is a bit longer than the stick and hence the D-shaft would be a bit shorter than the stick one. Might be the perfect length for you. Anyone know the measurement differences off the top of their head? 2"~.
feerocknok Posted June 5, 2007 Posted June 5, 2007 Another point is that it's easier to shorten a D-shaft than lengthen one, so I would seek out a longer one (any 2wd MJ one works) and cut it to size. Werd. Shops charge a butt load to lengthen a shaft, but almost nothing to shorten it. Also, I'm willing to bet that your stock shaft would still work if you manage to mangle your new shaft, so it'd be a good trail backup.
pingpong Posted June 5, 2007 Posted June 5, 2007 The reason why shops charge more to lengthen the shaft is more work. MOst shops use new tube, which means they have to cut out 2 welds, as well as re-weld 2 joints, and rebalance. When they shorten a shaft they only cut one end, thus 1/2 the work, and they re-use your old material, thus no cost... As for needing the SYE.. well thats a personal matter, but I say with that much lift and if it is wheeled I say yes
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