ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Just finished swapping a Chrys 8.25 for my D35. Difficult as it was, everything went more or less as expected, but now i have issue with the E brake. I was under the impression that the E brake functioned just like a normal drum brake, which means you need to adjust it until it drags slightly. I did exactly this, but when i tried to drive it, i made it 20ft before i felt/heard a minor clunk and the rear brakes drug heavily, one side locked up entirely. :eek: Does anyone have a pic of an 8.25 with discs? I want to make sure i have everything assembled correctly, especially the mechanism that actuates the E-brake. After loosening the E-brake significantly i can now drive around without the E brake suddenly hanging, but now i have another problem, actually a previous problem just made worse. With the brakes so loose my fancy new handbrake is almost useless. Even though it is extremely difficult to pull, it does very little to hold the truck. It does work, but you have to use two hands to pull it up far enough for it to do anything. I have it adjusted properly and every thing in the rear is new (rotors, hardward, shoes, pads, cables, the works) I know what the problem is, but i don't know how to solve it. In the new hardware kit i ordered came new springs, but the spring that keeps the shoes in place after you disengage the E-brake is absurdly/idiotically/ludicrously strong, i still don't know how i managed to get it into place. I think the answer is to source a slightly less stout spring, sound good? On a related note, I am really upset with the quality of the parts that came in hardware kit. Along with the spring i mentioned the brake shoe keeper clips were also so stiff they were near impossible to use and two of the little pins that go through the keeper clips (see pic below) broke. One immediately after it was installed and the other the day after install. It contributed to the E-brake locking up suddenly, super dangerous. CLIFF NOTES: Image of hardware setup for 8.25 with disc brakes, emphasis on E-brake acuator arm. How to adjust E-brake on 8.25 with disc brakes? E-brake does next to nothing because new spring is to strong. Can i just replace it with weaker spring? FPC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 I have no pics of the brake shoes......sorry. But all parts are stock to the Liberty brakes. The cables I used were ZJ cables.....forget the year......96 I think. The passenger side is correct for both sides, I need to swap the drivers side out eventually. My parking brakes work fine. As I recall there is not much to them....two keeper springs for the shoes....two tension springs.......and the adjuster. I have no idea what 'kit' you have but I'd suggest stock parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 18, 2014 Author Share Posted October 18, 2014 I have no pics of the brake shoes......sorry. But all parts are stock to the Liberty brakes. The cables I used were ZJ cables.....forget the year......96 I think. The passenger side is correct for both sides, I need to swap the drivers side out eventually. My parking brakes work fine. As I recall there is not much to them....two keeper springs for the shoes....two tension springs.......and the adjuster. I have no idea what 'kit' you have but I'd suggest stock parts. What do you mean the passenger side is correct for both sides?? Yea there really isnt much to them. All the stuff you mentioned is what came in my hardware kit, but it also included new pins for the shoe keeper springs . . . . . . . . which broke. All the replacement parts are stock parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 The ZJ has a left and right cable, they are different. I should have gotten 2 of the passenger side or right side cables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 19, 2014 Author Share Posted October 19, 2014 Figured it out, will post more later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunnc1991 Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 I know this thread is a little old, but had a question on the e-brake cables. Will the stock ZJ passenger cable work on either bed length, or do I need longer cables for my long bed. Been searching, but haven't found an answer for this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 The L and R rear e-brake cables are the same p/n and length for both the LWB and SWB MJ models. The bed length difference is made up for with the front e-brake from the foot pedal to the turnbuckle adjuster. When I installed my Explorer rear disk brakes I used the MJ stock rear cables - they were plenty long enough even with a ~3" lift. Then used the Ford e-brake clevis brackets to hook them up to the e-brake lever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunnc1991 Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 That's about what I figured as far as length goes. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 I think I will be using these when I do my rear disc swap. http://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/Wizard-Brackets-Reverse-TJ-Style-Parking-Brake-Cables-BRAKE-WIZARD-BRACKETS.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 The L and R rear e-brake cables are the same p/n and length for both the LWB and SWB MJ models. The bed length difference is made up for with the front e-brake from the foot pedal to the turnbuckle adjuster. When I installed my Explorer rear disk brakes I used the MJ stock rear cables - they were plenty long enough even with a ~3" lift. Then used the Ford e-brake clevis brackets to hook them up to the e-brake lever. You wouldn't happen to have a part number for those ... Would you? I'm wanting to go disc in the rear as simply as possible ... Without having to disable/delete the ebrake until I can find the correct cables. Would also like to use those to get the XJ ebrake working again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 52003188 for 1987/89; 52006380 for 1990/92. I don't know what the difference is (if any) between the two. :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 Sorry, I was meaning the clevis' ... But I already found them ... Lokal part right? Damn expensive though, shipping here is $30 alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 Yes, Lokar. Crazy expensive yes. Why? I don't know. It's called a Ford brake clevis too, and you can get them cheaper by looking for them under that name. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunnc1991 Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Bumping this back up. Got everything in, but i guess I'm missing a piece. The e-brake actuator? that hooks the cable to the shoes. Didn't come in the parts kit, and dcant seem to find it for sale anywhere. Any body who's done this have any advice? ZJ brakes onto an 8.25 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/zj-rear-disc-brake-part-question-1021657/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunnc1991 Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/zj-rear-disc-brake-part-question-1021657/ At least there's a few options there. Headed to the pick n pull Friday so hoping to find a few zj's to grab these from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDude Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 I've had the Ford 8.8 installed since last fall and haven't gotten around to installing the clevis adapters yet. I just need to cut the end off and reweld it on correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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