thejim42 Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 So I've been wanting the make a Comanche trailer from my long bed. My question is should I cut the rear section of the frame and weld an a frame on it and leave the axle under it. Or should I build a new frame and use a trailer axle? I kinda like the idea of having shocks but I'm looking for some advise. Hopefully Ben will chime in on this :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 Search. Automan2164 Neohic Petem Many have one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 Hopefully Ben will chime in on this :) :wavey: Really depends on what you want to do with the trailer when it's done. There's nothing wrong with using a hacked off MJ frame and throwing a tongue on it. If I were building another that all it was used for was a trailer, that's probably what I'd do. For my camper I wanted to go fancy with it and I had a pile of stainless tubing that was staring at me for a few years. Either way, you'll need to figure out some tongue weight keeping in mind that the wheels are just about dead center on the pickup box. If you use an existing frame, you'll probably be fine going a little beefy with the tongue material to make up for it... maybe mount a tool box on the front or something. Examples... Regardless of what you use for a frame, make sure you keep the wheels centered in the wheel wells and take your measurements from there. Here's some magic numbers for you when using a LWB bed... When measuring from here... ... put the center of the ball at 52". ... it'll ride down the road real nice without any wiggles IF you have some tongue weight on it. Not sure if using a SWB bed... never built a trailer out of one. As far as your axle questions, I'd either get or make a trailer axle to put under it just for the sake of less parts turning. As far as shocks... I could take them or leave them on a trailer. If you're putting a topper on it though... especially something as heavy as a WilderNest topper... you might want to figure out a sway bar. Mine is pretty top heavy. It was an added bonus of making my own frame to keep some weight a little lower. A sway bar is on my list of things to do with it. Hope that helps. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejim42 Posted October 7, 2014 Author Share Posted October 7, 2014 Thanks man, ive admired your camper for a while. I thought about eventually getting something like a widernest top for it if I could ever find one. What I ment with having shocks is I'm trying to keep the trailer from going airbourne. I've had that happen a few times with my snowmobile trailer and my utility trailer where I hit a bump and the trailer bounces all over the place. More than likely I'll be using the trailer to haul scrap, some landscaping. And maybe camping equipment when the group goes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 ... I've had that happen a few times with my snowmobile trailer and my utility trailer where I hit a bump and the trailer bounces all over the place... I don't think I'd worry too much about this when building a pickup box trailer. I don't think I've ever looked at a snowmobile or utility trailer that was built right. The problem with a factory built small trailer is that they typically use too stiff of a spring (for more hauling capacity) and then cheap out on the material to actually build it making it way too light. So again, I'd say as far as shocks go I could take them or leave them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejim42 Posted October 7, 2014 Author Share Posted October 7, 2014 What did you use for axles on the 2 you built? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 Rob ordered up exactly what I built for mine. They're both a 3500# axle that has a 62" hub face... yes, yes, I know that the factory track width is 58.5", but so many people run spacers to put the wheels out further to fill the wheel well anyhow. If you plan on ordering it and you plan to use the factory leaf springs, see if you can get it with 2.5" spring seats that are 42.5" on center to match the factory spring spacing. Otherwise, make your own or order 2.5" spring seats and weld them on yourself. If making your own, either use some 2.5" square tube or just build them like a puzzle out of flat stock like I did on Rob's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejim42 Posted October 7, 2014 Author Share Posted October 7, 2014 What about using the d35 that's already under it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 Nothing wrong with that... I just like getting rid of parts that don't need to be there. Here's more good information if you need a color layout on using the existing wiring too: http://comancheclub.com/topic/19339-trailer-wiring-for-4-wire-and-6-pole-receiver/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Just make sure to weld the perches on the proper side of the axle if you are doing it yourself. Ben and I even discussed this as we were working and prepping the axle... Only to notice we had them on the complete wrong side as we were loading everything up... Can't win them all, right? We just had a laugh and finished loading everything up. On the plus side, if I ever decide to go SOA with my 'nest, I am so already there man. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejim42 Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 I'll probably just leave the factory axle under it. Having a spare axle never hurts ;) lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 I'll probably just leave the factory axle under it. Having a spare axle never hurts ;) lol It creates additional drag, because you're spinning the gears inside. I think you can resolve that by just removing the ring gear and reassembling. You want the pinion in there to keep the gear lube from running out, although with no gears turning in there all you're lubricating is the inner (carrier) bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Just make sure to weld the perches on the proper side of the axle if you are doing it yourself. Ben and I even discussed this as we were working and prepping the axle... Only to notice we had them on the complete wrong side as we were loading everything up... :oops: ... on a side note, I'd just leave everything the way it is and just bend the axle in the other direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejim42 Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 I know the factory hub face was 58 1/2" would a 58" hub face work? Or would the 60" be better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 ... 62" hub face... yes, yes, I know that the factory track width is 58.5", but so many people run spacers to put the wheels out further to fill the wheel well anyhow... If you're ordering an axle I'd go 62". As a comparison, Don used 1.25" spacers on the rear of his MJ putting the hub face width at 61". Stock axle width: After spacers: Here's my axle with 62" hub width: ... and thanks, Don for letting me using your gorgeous pictures. :bowdown: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejim42 Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 That is a beautiful truck. Where did you get your axle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Rob ordered up exactly what I built for mine... Find a Redneck Trailer dealer and they'll build you whatever you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 my trailer was built less awesomely, but was still able to pass colorado inspection (apparently). it makes use of the MJ frame and stock axle. I'll add some pics of the joining interface when I get back home in a few days. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 I'm going tonight Pete, Ill send you some pics later . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 Those are some nice welds!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 Those are some nice welds!!! Awe, shucks... :oops: :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 mine has some less-than-stellar welds. this is the connection to the MJ frame. it's hard to see but there are 3 rosette welds on each side and a weld seam up the edge and across the top. the new steel only goes in maybe 10 inches. if I lived in michigan this would scare me. but it passed colorado inspection and now resides in georgia where rust is minimal. :crossfingers: the new steel is beefy and has a strong cross brace. the welding quality is... adequate. nothing pretty to see here. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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