Jump to content

Turbine Lug Nuts


Recommended Posts

So the lug nuts for the factory turbine wheels.... appear to be/are possibly.... somewhat unique.  

 

They are a bit taller.  

 

If I try to use a standard lug it's really hard to get a true lug wrench on them. 

 

Have MOST but not all I need.  

 

Standard "mag wheel" lugs are too tall to fit under the turbine wheel center cap. 

 

Anyone solved this issue already??

 

Thanks in advance. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the lead..... I think I've found the winner!

 

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-5536-711-206.aspx?year=1989&make=Jeep&model=Comanche&parttype=Wheel%20Nut&origin=YMM

 

Looks VERY close to the ones that I have that are working well. 

 

Thanks again.  Sold my XJ this week so the MJ is getting ALOT of attention. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So the lug nuts for the factory turbine wheels.... appear to be/are possibly.... somewhat unique.

Nope, they are (were) not unique. I bought my '88 XJ new -- it came from the factory with standard AMC 1/2x20 lug nuts with the stainless steel, crimped-on caps.

 

A long time ago I saw some that were the same type (crimped-on caps) but a little taller -- but they were aftermarket, at a Pep Boys. And I've been back several times hoping to find them again, because I liked them. Alas, they have disappeared. "He who hesitates is lost."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

god scott i just throwed away 20 of those.  on the turbine wheels you can use just about any 1/2 20 lug nut as long as its under 19mm or 3/4. the 21mm usally are too long and a little fat. just order gorilla nuts and never buy another set. no caps no breaking tops off super beef 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

So the lug nuts for the factory turbine wheels.... appear to be/are possibly.... somewhat unique.

Nope, they are (were) not unique. I bought my '88 XJ new -- it came from the factory with standard AMC 1/2x20 lug nuts with the stainless steel, crimped-on caps.

 

A long time ago I saw some that were the same type (crimped-on caps) but a little taller -- but they were aftermarket, at a Pep Boys. And I've been back several times hoping to find them again, because I liked them. Alas, they have disappeared. "He who hesitates is lost."

 

 

The key here is that they were/are stainless.  Most aftermarkets seem to be chrome plated steel.  With a little patience, I was able to find NOS factory on ebay a couple years ago.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can still buy the OEM replacements at Pep Boys -- just not the longer/deeper versions of them.

 

I agree on chrome-plated. They're okay in places like Tucson, but here in the rust belt it only take one winter to kill them deader than last week's fish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The lug nuts that are supposed to go on the turbine wheels have a long shoulder that fit between the rim and the studs.

Using the wrong lug nuts will cause damage to the rims.

I can’t remember the company who made the wheels for these trucks but I’ll take a picture of one and post it tomorrow after I get back from church.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The lug nuts that are supposed to go on the turbine wheels have a long shoulder that fit between the rim and the studs.

This is absolutely incorrect. I have four or five sets of the factory turbine wheels, and I've been driving on them for 25 years. They use the AMC-standard 1/2x20 lug nuts with the tapered seat.

 

Like these: stock-photo-five-lug-nuts-from-a-car-sta

 

NOT these: crr-090054_ml.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know what that is or where you got it, but I have the Jeep factory parts listing up in front of me as I type. For the years 1987 - 1990, which includes the turbine wheels, the parts manual shows me the base steel wheel, the triangular slotted steel wheel, the honeycomb alloy wheel, the 5-spoke alloy wheel, the Gambler alloy wheel, and the turbine alloy wheel. For ALL of those, the parts listing shows the same lug nut. There is only one -- and the one in your photo isn't it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^ This. ALL 84-01 XJ/MJ models with factory wheels, including the 10-spoke turbine wheels, used the same tapered seat lug nut, p/n J4006956. The only Jeep models that did not use these nuts in this time period were the full-size J-series trucks and Grand Wagoneers.

 

F112977133.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

strokermjcomanche... I live North of Atlanta...Gwinnett County. 

 

Sorry I didn't response sooner...yesterday was a 400 mile "junk yard adventure" for MJ/early XJ parts. It's how I fund this thing. 

 

Appreciate all the follow up posts.

 

The "lastest project" has been the normal fun of one thing after another. 

 

The Summit lugs should be here next day or so.  

 

Waiting on them and the new coil spring isolators to put on the 2" front lift springs and the new tires on the turbines. 

 

I'll post up pictures of the Summit lugs.  They were the best buy that I found and could get quickly at the time. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 There is only one -- and the one in your photo isn't it.

Gambler,

I’m not sure what you met by your question.

As I mentioned earlier my turbine wheels have a gap between the rim and the stud that is why they need this type of lug nut.

About a year ago I lost one while rotating my tires and to order one.

We have an old fashion parts store that was able to locate it for me.

Do your turbines have the same gap?

I took the picture that way so you could also see the gap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't see any excess gap in your picture - they look just like my turbine wheels. That's normally how any Jeep factory alloy wheel fits around the wheel stud. Jeep factory wheels are all hub centric, not lug centric. In a hub centric wheel the wheel centerbore fits tightly around the raised ring on the hub. This is how the wheel is centered and the hub supports the weight of the vehicle. The wheel studs and nuts are there to secure the wheel to the mounting plate and are anchored by the matched tapered mating surfaces on the lug nut and wheel stud hole. There should be no "shoulder" below the lug nut tapered seat or they probably won't seat properly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well they got here quick

 

IMG_2355.jpg

 

they fit  perfect.....

 

IMG_2359.jpg

 

still have to remeasure the backs....to make sure there is enough stud/thread ratio 

IMG_2358.jpg

The old ones actually had a portion at the top with no threads...really think I'll find that all is fine. 

 

and really happy with the turbines....and how they look...

IMG_2364.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the standard lug nuts, if you pry the stainless cap off, you probably would have has the right clearance for your center cap, that and with the caps off the nut is perfect for an 18mm socket.

I'm ahead of the curve -- I have a bunch around here with the stainless caps "pre-removed." It's an inevitable result of "technicians" pounding them on and off with impact guns.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...