Jump to content

Insurance coverage question


Virginia
 Share

Recommended Posts

the cheapest, my MJ is a toy. its not my dd

 

Mine is my daily driver though. Should that make a difference?

 

if you have to have it to get where you're going then you might need some cash if it gets totalled. :dunno: i'm guessin thats the difference

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the cheapest, my MJ is a toy. its not my dd

 

Mine is my daily driver though. Should that make a difference?

 

if you have to have it to get where you're going then you might need some cash if it gets totalled. :dunno: i'm guessin thats the difference

 

At that point, I'd pull the 65 MG or the motorcycle out. What would happen, though, is that I wouldn't have cash to make any repairs if any could be made. If it's NOT totaled and it's my fault, comprehensive and/or collision would pay for repairs right? Or does the age of the vehicle factor in to an insurance company's decision to total?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a 91 4x4 6cyl 5 speed with about 139000 miles. I currently carry comprehensive and collision but am thinking of dropping to just uninsured and liability. What do you all carry on your trucks?

 

My newly acquired MJ is for a very specific purpose. At last count, I own 14 vehicles (most insured at a special fleet/collector rate) so it's just liability and UM for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What do you all carry on your trucks?

 

Currently? 2 have fire/theft (in "storage" at the moment) and the third has nothing (technically I haven't even registered it yet.) But when they are drivable, I go with the bare necessities. But then my trucks are rusty piles of crap and barely worth their weight in steel. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You really need to wiegh your options... is the cost of increased premiums worth what the vehicle is. The most an insurance company will pay is blue book value for your rig, unless you have an agreed value policy. Then at 80% they can total it, and offer you a settlement.

 

Of course this stuff can be argued, if "significant"modifications have been performed, but then you have to prove that they did not cause the accident

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't made any significant changes. Does need painting though. The black is fading with the clearcoat gone. Kelley blue book lists it private party in good condition at $1975. I'd guess I wouldn't get that and if the insurance companies go for retail, it's worth less than that. My guess is that any significant damage would result in a total.

 

So many decisions. I should probably talk to my insurance company but wonder if they'd give me the straight scoop so that they wouldn't lose the monthly premium.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can always talk to a different insurance company if you're looking at changing plans. If you do that, you know they are giving you the best rate they can so that they can get ahold of your business.

 

I only run liability due to my possession of so many vehicles and relatively low income.

 

JeepCo, what are the requirements out there for hobbyist plates? In Oregon, you take the vehicle's year (say 1967), subtract 1900 (1967-1900=67), divide that by 2 (67/2=33.5), subtract that number from the current year (2007-33.5=1973.5), and if the vehicle was made before that date, you can get the plates.

I want them for the MJ so I'm less likely to be driving it everyday. I didn't build it for that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just completed my complete rebuild.

body work, paint, grille, flares, tars, stereo, CB.

I will be calling my insurance agent soon.

I beleive they have an agreed value policy.

you pay premium based on the stated and agreed value of the vehicle.

In case of an accident, they don't ding you on the value, due to age.

 

BOB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What would happen, though, is that I wouldn't have cash to make any repairs if any could be made. If it's NOT totaled and it's my fault, comprehensive and/or collision would pay for repairs right? Or does the age of the vehicle factor in to an insurance company's decision to total?

Age does factor in, but not directly.

 

Regardless of age, the insurance company will "total" a vehicle if the cost of repairs would exceed their estimate of the replacement cost of a vehicle. Obviously, for a 20-year old, high mileage vehicle, the replacement cost is much lower than for a brand new vehicle just off the showroom floor. For a $35,000 new car, a $3,500 repair is nothing. For a 20-year old MJ, a $3,500 repair is five or more times what the blue book says the vehicle is worth.

 

This is why, if you put a lot of money into repairing or restoring an older vehicle, you should document everything with both receipts and photos, and keep the insurance company informed that your 20-year old clunker should not be considered the same as the rust-bucket on the next block. You may pay a bit more in premiums to have the increased replacement value covered, but if you need it it's nice to get the real value covered.

 

FWIW, those of us who drive and love older vehicles face the same problem even (or especially) if an accident is NOT our fault. If an accident is caused by another driver, that driver's insurance company is not going to want to spend a nickel more than they have to, so if they can total out your 1988 Comanche for a $500 lump sum payment rather than ante up for a $3500 repair bill ... guess what they'll choose. In such a case, if you still have your own collision insurance and have documented that you have recently put more than $3500 into the vehicle, you can choose to have the vehicle repaired under your own insurance and all you pay is the deductable.

 

Your insurance company then goes after the other company through a process called "subrogation." If they recover (which they usually do), they will then refund your deductable. That's the main reason I keep collision coverage (which is "collision" coverage, not "comprehensive." Comprehensive covers fire, theft, and natural disaster, not accidents) on my older vehicles. I run a fairly high deductable to keep the premiums down, but I consider all of my XJs and MJs to be worth more than "book" value and I do not want some dipzhit, fly-by-night insurance company to steal one from me if their insured driver plows into me in a drunken stupor some night. $500 is NOT going to buy any of my Jeeps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Eagle - well said!

 

I had a work van t-boned 5 years ago, parked on the street overnight, and the other insurance company (which now carrys my Commerical insurance) offered me $1200 for a 13 year old Ford van, then I gave them copys of all of the repairs I had done over the past 5 years, including the re-man engine, and then reminded the adjuster that I carry a commerical policy on that truck, and mentioned to him about the rental he forgot to provide me, and when the final offer came in at $4300, I accepted that, with the right to re-open my claim (that gets the adjusters all nervous) and bought the van back for $50. With my clean title in hand. And I had the check in my hand 10 days after the accident.

 

I only carry comp and liability and un-insured on all of my vehicles, Collision is just too much in this state to carry on a 20 year old truck.

 

Just keep all of your recepts for any and all work you do to the truck, even the routine items, puts a date and millage on the vehicle.

 

And the most important thing is to have a "Good" insurance agent you can work with. Not some on line company. My agent just switched companys for me this year, and I saved over $300 on the 2 Jeeps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back in 99 I had a Rigid Sportster with an 18 over girder on it. I dumped it 3 days after putting it on the road. At the Time I had an AllState stated value policy.

 

Well as any of you know the bike is kinda cool cause it was a Chopper, and it was an HD. Well the insurance company tried to get away with paying just 2200 for the bike and totalling it. I refused that offer and proceeded to get them 3 estimates from a custom shop and 2 dealerships to fix it. The cheapest estimate was 4200. Then the insurance company upped their offer to 3200, I looked at the adjuster and said.... Hell no Just fix my f---ing bike. They proceeded to tell me he would get back to me.... a week later the check came minus my 500 dollar deductable, and I kept the money... and sold the bike torn apart in boxes for another 2000, I think I made out all right in the big scheme of things

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Comprehensive covers fire, theft, and natural disaster

 

in addition to those things, my comprehensive covers me hitting a deer, or glass breakages.

so my insurance is liability and comprehensive. I do keep the bodily injury and property damage caps on my insurance higher than state mins.

State mins in OH are 300K/100K

You can eat through 100K of medical pretty quickly, and then you're on the hook financially for the other persons medical bills.

So I carry 500K property damage and 1million medical liability.

That ups my premium about $30 a half, but I find that it's worth it. In the unlikely situation that I do cause and accident, I don't want to pay the other person's medical bills for the rest of my life.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...