vac, valves, carb, i don't know anymore

[JeepcoMJ]

Wiring is the same if you put the 2.8 intake and carb on. But personally, I would go painless, or piggyback the harness from the do or car

[redwolf624]

Wiring is the same if you put the 2.8 intake and carb on. But personally, I would go painless, or piggyback the harness from the do or car

alright, now i'm gettin confused due to askin too many questions, if i do the 3.4 conversion do i have to use a different wiring harness?

 

Redwolf

[JeepcoMJ]

If you swap just the longblock, no.

 

If you want the fuel injection, you need to add to the harness

[redwolf624]

then i don't need a harness, i never go fuel injection cause it cost more, i don't have the money nor the know how to add a cpu in the truck,

 

Redwolf

[Eagle]

then i don't need a harness, i never go fuel injection cause it cost more, i don't have the money nor the know how to add a cpu in the truck,

Then what you would do is get a 3.4L (must come from a rear-wheel drive car like a Camaro or Firebird). Use your existing Jeep intake and exhaust manifolds. Use your Jeep flywheel, but you'll have to have it re-balanced. The 2.8L was an externally-balanced engine -- meaning there's a blob of eccentric weight on one side of the flywheel. The 3.4L is internally balanced, so you have to get the blob removed and the flywheel "neutral balanced" (no eccentric weights in any one spot).

 

The 3.4L doesn't have a place for a mechanical fuel pump, so you'll need an electric. Not a big deal -- for a carburetor, the fuel pump only pushes about 7 psi and you can find plenty of choices at a speed shop or on-line at Summit Racing.

 

Such as this: http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/air-fuel-delivery/universal/yes/product-line/summit-racing-street-strip-electric-fuel-pumps?N=4294951509%2B4294947842%2B4294951518%2B4294948048%2B4294921162&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&autoview=SKU&keyword=Electric%20Fuel%20Pumps

 

[redwolf624]

 

then i don't need a harness, i never go fuel injection cause it cost more, i don't have the money nor the know how to add a cpu in the truck,

Then what you would do is get a 3.4L (must come from a rear-wheel drive car like a Camaro or Firebird). Use your existing Jeep intake and exhaust manifolds. Use your Jeep flywheel, but you'll have to have it re-balanced. The 2.8L was an externally-balanced engine -- meaning there's a blob of eccentric weight on one side of the flywheel. The 3.4L is internally balanced, so you have to get the blob removed and the flywheel "neutral balanced" (no eccentric weights in any one spot).

 

The 3.4L doesn't have a place for a mechanical fuel pump, so you'll need an electric. Not a big deal -- for a carburetor, the fuel pump only pushes about 7 psi and you can find plenty of choices at a speed shop or on-line at Summit Racing.

 

Such as this: http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/air-fuel-delivery/universal/yes/product-line/summit-racing-street-strip-electric-fuel-pumps?N=4294951509%2B4294947842%2B4294951518%2B4294948048%2B4294921162&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&autoview=SKU&keyword=Electric%20Fuel%20Pumps

 

 

and there lies a problem, i don't have the jeep flywheel, i believe i have the flywheel out of a 93 sonoma, and the engine i'm usin from that sonoma didn't have the spot for a mechanical fuel pump so i already got an electric one  :thumbsup:

 

Redwolf

[Jeep Driver]

 

 

then i don't need a harness, i never go fuel injection cause it cost more, i don't have the money nor the know how to add a cpu in the truck,

Then what you would do is get a 3.4L (must come from a rear-wheel drive car like a Camaro or Firebird). Use your existing Jeep intake and exhaust manifolds. Use your Jeep flywheel, but you'll have to have it re-balanced. The 2.8L was an externally-balanced engine -- meaning there's a blob of eccentric weight on one side of the flywheel. The 3.4L is internally balanced, so you have to get the blob removed and the flywheel "neutral balanced" (no eccentric weights in any one spot).

 

The 3.4L doesn't have a place for a mechanical fuel pump, so you'll need an electric. Not a big deal -- for a carburetor, the fuel pump only pushes about 7 psi and you can find plenty of choices at a speed shop or on-line at Summit Racing.

 

Such as this: http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/air-fuel-delivery/universal/yes/product-line/summit-racing-street-strip-electric-fuel-pumps?N=4294951509%2B4294947842%2B4294951518%2B4294948048%2B4294921162&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&autoview=SKU&keyword=Electric%20Fuel%20Pumps

 

 

and there lies a problem, i don't have the jeep flywheel, i believe i have the flywheel out of a 93 sonoma, and the engine i'm usin from that sonoma didn't have the spot for a mechanical fuel pump so i already got an electric one  :thumbsup:

 

Redwolf

 

 

 

You don't even know what engine you have.

 

The Sonoma came with the 4.3

[redwolf624]

 

 

 

then i don't need a harness, i never go fuel injection cause it cost more, i don't have the money nor the know how to add a cpu in the truck,

Then what you would do is get a 3.4L (must come from a rear-wheel drive car like a Camaro or Firebird). Use your existing Jeep intake and exhaust manifolds. Use your Jeep flywheel, but you'll have to have it re-balanced. The 2.8L was an externally-balanced engine -- meaning there's a blob of eccentric weight on one side of the flywheel. The 3.4L is internally balanced, so you have to get the blob removed and the flywheel "neutral balanced" (no eccentric weights in any one spot).

 

The 3.4L doesn't have a place for a mechanical fuel pump, so you'll need an electric. Not a big deal -- for a carburetor, the fuel pump only pushes about 7 psi and you can find plenty of choices at a speed shop or on-line at Summit Racing.

 

Such as this: http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/air-fuel-delivery/universal/yes/product-line/summit-racing-street-strip-electric-fuel-pumps?N=4294951509%2B4294947842%2B4294951518%2B4294948048%2B4294921162&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&autoview=SKU&keyword=Electric%20Fuel%20Pumps

 

 

and there lies a problem, i don't have the jeep flywheel, i believe i have the flywheel out of a 93 sonoma, and the engine i'm usin from that sonoma didn't have the spot for a mechanical fuel pump so i already got an electric one  :thumbsup:

 

Redwolf

 

 

 

You don't even know what engine you have.

 

The Sonoma came with the 4.3

 

1993 gmc sonoma, it had a 2.8 in it, 93 was the last year the 2.8 used, trust me i know what engine i got cause i wanted to stay with the 2.8 since i did have plans to restore my MJ,

 

Redwolf

[JeepcoMJ]

The gaskets necessary to put carb on it cost half as much as a painless wiring harness.

 

And if you have a friend with alldata, it's easy to mod the chevy harness

[redwolf624]

The gaskets necessary to put carb on it cost half as much as a painless wiring harness.

 

And if you have a friend with alldata, it's easy to mod the chevy harness

shoot the gaskets are easy, plus i have access to the alldata program at work :)

 

Redwolf

[JeepcoMJ]

You couldn't even understand a simple statement?

[redwolf624]

well gettin home this mornin was interesting, i had to keep on the gas just to keep the truck runnin, fuel/air mixture is fine, but i'm gettin no oil pressure at all once i let off the gas, it just stalls' the whole way home i'm hearin a loud knockin sounded like broken valves, i'll fine out more tomorrow when i'm off,

 

Redwolf

[Eagle]

You need an engine. Quit throwing time and money at that boat anchor and find yourself a decent Camaro 3.4L with fuel injection.

[redwolf624]

You need an engine. Quit throwing time and money at that boat anchor and find yourself a decent Camaro 3.4L with fuel injection.

see that's where i can't proceed, no camaros around the junkyards here have 3.4s they all have 3.8s or 5.0s by the way, wouldn't the 3.4 eat my ax 5 trans for breakfest?

 

Redwolf

[cruiser54]

Your trans will be fine. Quit dinking around and find a 3.4.

[Eagle]

Your trans will be fine. Quit dinking around and find a 3.4.

Or even a late model Cherokee 2.5L

[redwolf624]

hey, i'm just tryin to get all my facts and research done, yall always told me do that before i do anything  :thumbsup:

 

Redwolf

[redwolf624]

well i replaced the 12 push rods cause 3 were bent, now it makes no sound on the top but it knocks on the bottom, what size engines can i use that will bolt up to my ax5 trans and not eat it up?

 

Redwolf

[Minuit]

Your trans will be fine. Quit dinking around and find a 3.4.

• 1993–1995 Chevrolet Camaro
• 1993–1995 Pontiac Firebird

[Eagle]

 

Your trans will be fine. Quit dinking around and find a 3.4.

• 1993–1995 Chevrolet Camaro
• 1993–1995 Pontiac Firebird

Plus 1984 - 2000 Jeep Cherokee/Comanche 2.5L (I don't think they offered the 2.5L in 2001. It was used through 2003 in the Wrangler.)

 

Yeah, yeah, I know -- it's only a 4-cylinder and you have six. Consider this:

 

1984-1986 2.8L V6: 115 hp @ 4,800 RPM, and 145 ft-lbs of torque @ 2,400 RPM

1984-1985 2.5L I4: 105 hp @ 5,000 RPM, and 132 ft-lbs of torque @ 2,800 RPM (Carbureted)

1986-____ 2.5L I4: 105 hp @ 5,000 RPM, and 132 ft-lbs of torque @ 2,800 RPM (TBI)

1987-1990 2.5L I4: 121 hp @ 5,250 RPM, and 141 ft-lbs of torque @ 3,250 RPM (TBI)

1991-2003 2.5L I4: 130 hp @ 5,250 RPM, and 150 ft-lbs of torque @ 3,250 RPM (MPFI)

 

You can see that even the original, carbureted version of the 2.5L is very nearly equal to the 2.8L V6. Once you get the 1987 the 4-cylinder out-performs the V6, and the 1991 and newer multiport version is significantly better than the V6 in horsepower, as well as slightly better in torque.

 

The 2.5L will bolt right up to your transmission, and it won't eat it. You can also find the same 2.5L engine in Dodge Dakota pickups of the same vintage.

[redwolf624]

 

 

Your trans will be fine. Quit dinking around and find a 3.4.

• 1993–1995 Chevrolet Camaro
• 1993–1995 Pontiac Firebird

Plus 1984 - 2000 Jeep Cherokee/Comanche 2.5L (I don't think they offered the 2.5L in 2001. It was used through 2003 in the Wrangler.)

 

Yeah, yeah, I know -- it's only a 4-cylinder and you have six. Consider this:

 

1984-1986 2.8L V6: 115 hp @ 4,800 RPM, and 145 ft-lbs of torque @ 2,400 RPM

1984-1985 2.5L I4: 105 hp @ 5,000 RPM, and 132 ft-lbs of torque @ 2,800 RPM (Carbureted)

1986-____ 2.5L I4: 105 hp @ 5,000 RPM, and 132 ft-lbs of torque @ 2,800 RPM (TBI)

1987-1990 2.5L I4: 121 hp @ 5,250 RPM, and 141 ft-lbs of torque @ 3,250 RPM (TBI)

1991-2003 2.5L I4: 130 hp @ 5,250 RPM, and 150 ft-lbs of torque @ 3,250 RPM (MPFI)

 

You can see that even the original, carbureted version of the 2.5L is very nearly equal to the 2.8L V6. Once you get the 1987 the 4-cylinder out-performs the V6, and the 1991 and newer multiport version is significantly better than the V6 in horsepower, as well as slightly better in torque.

 

The 2.5L will bolt right up to your transmission, and it won't eat it. You can also find the same 2.5L engine in Dodge Dakota pickups of the same vintage.

 

thanks eagle, everyone one's insistin on the 3.4, i can't really find a 3.4 in my area, i can find more 2.5 in GMs than i can the 3.4 now my next question, if i was to go away from the 2.8 and go to a 2.5 or 3.4, would the stuff i have for my 2.8, alt, distributer, PS pump, all that good stuff work on the other engines or would i have to get everything for that engine and how bout the 4.3.....i can find those all day long at the junkyard,

 

Redwolf

[Jeep Driver]

From what I just read........

 

The 3.4 is a 60 degree engine while the 4.3 is a 90 degree engine.

 

The 4.3 with a TH350 trans out of a Blazer may be a good way to go.

[redwolf624]

From what I just read........

 

The 3.4 is a 60 degree engine while the 4.3 is a 90 degree engine.

 

The 4.3 with a TH350 trans out of a Blazer may be a good way to go.

So as long as i stay with a 60 degree engine i should be good right?

 

Redwolf

[Jeep Driver]

Myself and one or two others here suggested that you adjust your valves by 'feel' with the engine running. If you had done so and still could not get them to adjust and maintain an adjustment........that is an indicator. At that point you need to stop and rethink what it going on.

You stated that you had no way of measuring oil pressure.......why? For $15 you could buy Sunpro mechanical gauge and mount it in the engine bay......that would have told you that you were about to experience catastrophic failure......and you have.

 

The reason you could not get your valves to adjust is 0 oil pressure. A new hi-volume pump may have gotten you another year out of the engine....little late now.

 

I would NOT get another JY engine.

 

 

I would look for a RUNNING S10 or Blazer or Camaro as a donor. RUNNING! maybe a rust bucket or a wreck or one with a bad trans.

One that you can pick up for $800 or so, pull the engine and scrap the rest, you'll get $350-400 for the scrap.

This also allows you to decide if you want to go EFI since the harness is in the donor.....you'll have a CHOICE, I like choices.

 

While the engine is out, clean it up, install new seals and gaskets. Pull the oil pan and clean it out. New oil pump, new water pump......etc........new plugs and wires......and so on.....

 

 

Think your way through this one this time.....or........you will repeat failure again.

[redwolf624]

Myself and one or two others here suggested that you adjust your valves by 'feel' with the engine running. If you had done so and still could not get them to adjust and maintain an adjustment........that is an indicator. At that point you need to stop and rethink what it going on.

You stated that you had no way of measuring oil pressure.......why? For $15 you could buy Sunpro mechanical gauge and mount it in the engine bay......that would have told you that you were about to experience catastrophic failure......and you have.

 

The reason you could not get your valves to adjust is 0 oil pressure. A new hi-volume pump may have gotten you another year out of the engine....little late now.

 

I would NOT get another JY engine.

 

 

I would look for a RUNNING S10 or Blazer or Camaro as a donor. RUNNING! maybe a rust bucket or a wreck or one with a bad trans.

One that you can pick up for $800 or so, pull the engine and scrap the rest, you'll get $350-400 for the scrap.

This also allows you to decide if you want to go EFI since the harness is in the donor.....you'll have a CHOICE, I like choices.

 

While the engine is out, clean it up, install new seals and gaskets. Pull the oil pan and clean it out. New oil pump, new water pump......etc........new plugs and wires......and so on.....

 

 

Think your way through this one this time.....or........you will repeat failure again.

And see, here is my main issue, i only have a part time job and my last paycheck was 480 after taxes, i don't have enough fot a donor or a rebuilt, or to slap new parts on an engine, i gotta use what i got and get another junkyard engine, its all i can afford right now, my MJ is my daily driver and to be down this long is bad for me,

 

Redwolf