UNL1MTD Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 So I unsuccessfully replaced my valve cover gasket last Tuesday. Unsuccessfully meaning the more I run it the worse the leak gets. I'm thinking I may have taken way too many things for granted and just want to clear them all up before I take another stab at it this Sunday. First off I'm using the cork gasket by FelPro which is 5 bucks from Advanced Auto. I read on here that this is what most people use because of the cost. I have also read that some use the 50 dollar one because it'll last longer. I think I want to stick with the cork one, just because of the cost. What I did. Took off the old valve cover. Scrapped off the old rubberish gasket, looked like gray rtv. Used a can of seafoam and brush to clean the valve cover surface. Looked at rockers, didn't do anything to them. Wiped down the block's mating surface with rag and seafoam. Put the cork gasket on the block, lined it up, tightened it down to 10 ft/lbs. I didn't have a inch lb torque wrench and that was my lowest setting on my ft/lb torque wrench. I went in an alternating pattern around the cover. So anyways, I think I messed up just about every step. How do you line up the cork gasket correctly? Is RTV to be used in conjunction with the cork gasket? Is 10 ft/lbs way too much? Is there a specific pattern to tighten down the valve cover bolts? I'm thinking about doing the oil filter adapter o-ring aswell. Is this just one bolt from the block and it comes off? Replace o-ring, reinstall? Will oil dump everywhere? Thanks, Sean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 you did it right except that the gasket probably fell back in, and i'm pretty sure 10 ft lbs is too much. go to the store, buy a new one, and ask for a gasket replacement compound (it's like silicone). you put the gasket replacement compound on the top and bottom of the gasket, then set the gasket IN THE VALVE COVER grooves, line up the holes. the silicone stuff will make it adhere to the valve cover and it won't move by just sitting there. once you do that, set it on the block, thread in the bolts by hand. now here's the tricky part...you don't have the right torque wrench, sooo what you need to do is tighten them until they're SNUG but not over-tighten them. if you overtighten, you get symptoms like what you are currently experiencing and you end up with one big mess, if you undertighten, same thing. so snug them all up in an alternating pattern starting from the MIDDLE of the cover outward, and snug them all to the same "feel" should solve your problem in a heartbeat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMJ Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 Gorilla snot, you know the yellow stuff, glue it to the valve cover, let it dry, nothing on the bottom, just a clean surface. Works for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xacto Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 The factory manual gives 55 in-lbs as the torque for the bolts. My wrench also wouldn't go that low, so I just tightened them up by feel and it worked fine. I just used the cork gasket, no sealer and it's been leak free for two years now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 A trick I always use for cork cover gaskets is to tighten with the center of the ratchet, dircetly behind the socket, held in the palm of the hand. No additional leverage, do not touch the "handle". Tighten as tight as you can. OH I like Indain head cement. Follow directions on the bottle. If you lazy, Lock-tite makes a red spray to. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheman Posted May 9, 2007 Share Posted May 9, 2007 ive always just used a 1/4 inch nut driver to snug up most valvecover gaskets. havent had a problem yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted May 9, 2007 Share Posted May 9, 2007 Like KYMJ said, but my favorite goop is Three Bond, Liquid Gasket #1104. You get it mainly at motorcycle shops. Make sure your vacuum system is working too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroader461 Posted May 9, 2007 Share Posted May 9, 2007 i don't use a gasket on mine and never had a leak ever...i just take some RTV silicone and put it on the bottom of the valve cover and on the cylinder head and bolt it back on...never a problem....i used a cork felpro gasket and it did nothing but leak... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted May 9, 2007 Share Posted May 9, 2007 i don't use a gasket on mine and never had a leak ever...i just take some RTV silicone and put it on the bottom of the valve cover and on the cylinder head and bolt it back on...never a problem....i used a cork felpro gasket and it did nothing but leak... that's a worst case scenario situation for me. I use RTV on my diff covers, simply because it sticks so well, andif you bend the lip of a cover the RTV tends to stay sealed. On the valve cover though, it's a royal PITA to clean back off, and when you're cleaning it from the head I always drop little bits in places I don't want it to go. I just use gasket dressing and the cork gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fendermb4 Posted May 9, 2007 Share Posted May 9, 2007 In the manual for my SRT, it says to put a small dab of RTV on each corner of the gasket and place the gasket onto the valve cover. I've been using this process on my Jeeps, and it seems to work pretty good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted May 9, 2007 Share Posted May 9, 2007 I prefer to use Gasket Shalack, or like some one else pointed out Gorrila Glue..... the only problem is.. if you put it on both gasket surfaces.. the gasket is a one use item :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partsmj Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 I have had a few renix 4.0's. First thing I do is change the valve cover gasket. And replace all the crankcase vents. 88-90 53004868 53004838 4762592 1987 53004378 53004379 4762592 and the oil cap 33001016 Then I start chasing down all the other leaks. After a day wheeling, when everything is covered in some mud, and after it dries, it makes looking for the rest of the leaks easier imho. Working at the dealer, anyone who says "I have a Comanche" gets the wholesale price, 20% off list. I don't see too many Comanches anymore. That is kind of good for me, because I always ask if it is for sale. Comanches rule. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UNL1MTD Posted May 10, 2007 Author Share Posted May 10, 2007 thanks for all the replys. I'm going to pick up a new gasket and some Gorilla Glue. I'm going to use the seal the gasket to valve cover method and I'm going to snag an inch/lb wrench from work. Never even thought of the oil cap, always some residue there, might as well get a new one. I've already changed out the vents for the emissions stuff, fixed the oil in the airbox problem. Anyway it really needs to get done. I checked the oil and I'm halfway between add and fill. On sunday she was topped off right above fill, only about 130 miles. Its leaking bad, probably just going to park it for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 thanks for all the replys. I'm going to pick up a new gasket and some Gorilla Glue. I'm going to use the seal the gasket to valve cover method and I'm going to snag an inch/lb wrench from work. Never even thought of the oil cap, always some residue there, might as well get a new one. I've already changed out the vents for the emissions stuff, fixed the oil in the airbox problem. Anyway it really needs to get done. I checked the oil and I'm halfway between add and fill. On sunday she was topped off right above fill, only about 130 miles. Its leaking bad, probably just going to park it for now. ungh no gorrilla glue...WHEN the new valve cover goes bad, you will wish you hadn't glued it to the valve cover. RTV black hi temp silicone at the very least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 I had an oil leak on my junk, that mimicked, a real seal/ valve cover gasket, and it ended up being a distributor gasket :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UNL1MTD Posted May 12, 2007 Author Share Posted May 12, 2007 I just finished up work today on the MJ. I pulled the valve cover and sure enough the gasket wasnt seated right. It was half on/half inside the valve cover on the driver's side. :oops: I decided that I had the whole day and I might as well take out the rockers, lifters, bridges, and just clean it all up in there. I really thought it wasn't that bad but the before/after is striking, so I'm glad I took the time. It was about 3 hours to do it (9-12), it was the only time I wish I had a 4banger too. I did each cylinder one at a time to avoid mixing up lifters/rockers so thats good. Torque wrench and lock tight on the rocker arm bolts. I did have a lifter tick from the 1st or 2nd cylinder, so I kinda figured this would help. I took the valve cover and cleaned the surface, put down some Indian Head Gasket Shalack and put down the cork. I'm not sure the gasket shalack was the right choice, but for whatever reason at the store the brown indian dude on bottle just talked me into buying him. Didn't put enough on the first time and it fell off, Didn't allow it to setup long enough the second time and it fell off, third time was just right and she's all buttoned up. Was definitely light on the wrench. I couldn't get an inch pounder from work. So I used CWs method and I think it worked. Ran her for 25 minutes. No leaks around the valve cover with varying the throttle throughout. :cheers: And no lifter tick. :D However I'm sure I got a rear-main leak :cry: I was under her with a towel and I pinpointed the origin to the rear main. Its a real bummer, cause its leaking pretty good. Like a drop off the flew plate every minute once she is warm. No leaks when cold. I'm not sure how serious that is, but to me its scary. I guess the MJ isn't going to be DDing anymore. Just running to Hardware stores and the dump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 12, 2007 Share Posted May 12, 2007 One drop a minute? That's nothing for a Jeep. :D It's not all that hard to replace the rear main, just a pain in the butt and very messy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now