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Christmas Eve Starter Problems. Please Help.


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my 87 2.5 won't start. plenty of juice but the starter just clicks once then nothing. truck is in a parking lot, grrrr. I have no electrical testing tools or abilities. I'm guessing the starter. what about you guys? am I right? I found one local but can't get it till Friday. how hard are they to change out on the side of the road?? grrr again. what tool are needed? socket and wrench sizes?

 

please help

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gona try givin it a wack tomorrow. if I have to change it out on the road, do I need standard or metric? how many wires are there 2 or 3? and on the 87 2.5 will I be able to r and r w/o removing any cross members or any other structural items?

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Get a screw driver, or remote starter button. Connect the two large studs on the solenoid together. The starter should spin freely. If not. the starter is bad. Now short the large top stud to the small terminal on the solenoid. The starter should now engage and turn your engine over. If not, the solenoid is bad.

The two bolts holding the starter on are 15 mm. The two large studs on the solenoid are 13mm. The small stud on the solenoid is 8mm.

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Altho the starter shown here uses 15mm 6point some do use a torx. And 10-4 on what Pete said below.

 

And before anybody points it out, that was a 4.0 starter. I had it laying on the bench. I didn't have a 2.5. Except for the mounting, what I said still goes.

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do make sure that any manual trans is in neutral (and better yet, someone also has their foot firmly on the brake) before trying to crank over the engine via touching the starter.  :thumbsup: 

 

we don't want ya running yourself over with your own truck. :shake:  

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A piece of wire with a alligator clip on each end also works, and is easier to use. You can also take a longer piece of wire. Attach one end to the battery pos. Now you only have one wire to move, work with.And yes the tailgate is much more accessible. But then we can't have everything.

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They can look good and still have poor connection. If you wipe your finger across the post and there is grey paste, that's lead oxide and it does NOT pass power well. That click you hear will be it going over the amount it can carry and arcing. You'd be surprised how many people replace batteries when all they need to do is clean the posts and clamps (clamps can melt/corrode where they meet the cable too) They even replace their alternator or at least pull it off and have it tested when there is nothing wrong with it either, but the loose post can kill the alternator from it full fielding.

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there's a rubber boot on the top terminal on the starter. not much room from underneath, can't get my hand in there to pull the boot off. looks like i'll have to remove the oil filter.

 

what would be the chance of the problem being the starter relay? could it be bad and the starter still click when trying to start her? or would the starter not make any sound?

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Carnuck gave good info about terminals and connections. Just because they look good doesn't mean they are good - check to be sure.

 

The fellas who suggested rapping on the starter gave a good tip too. As a starter gets older, particles from wear accumulate, and the brushes themselves get shorter. The combination of the 2 can cause the brushes to hang up when the pressure of the springs that press the brushes to the commutator becomes insufficient for the brushes to make good contact. Rapping the starter is sometimes all it takes to get the brushes to make good contact... but don't depend on this too many times - you can ruin your starter by using it with worn-out brushes. Pull it, clean it, and replace the brushes at first opportunity.

 

Jim gave the best advice for troubleshooting the starter itself. Do the above, then run his simple tests, then remediate appropriately.

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