88swampedmj Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 haha iam hopin my 5.13s will let me crawl easy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 my brothers 4.0 with 4.88s and 35s is a little low on the gearing, i think the speedometer is about 10% off stock so that means 4.88s with 36s would be just about perfect, thats on an auto though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88swampedmj Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 my brothers 4.0 with 4.88s and 35s is a little low on the gearing, i think the speedometer is about 10% off stock so that means 4.88s with 36s would be just about perfect, thats on an auto though yea but, running 36s with 4.88s to get the stock speedo reading isnt so good.. then its like running stock gears with little tires... you need gearing/torque for wheelin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 my brothers 4.0 with 4.88s and 35s is a little low on the gearing, i think the speedometer is about 10% off stock so that means 4.88s with 36s would be just about perfect, thats on an auto though yea but, running 36s with 4.88s to get the stock speedo reading isnt so good.. then its like running stock gears with little tires... you need gearing/torque for wheelin ? i don't follow, running 35s with 4.88s would be similar to running stock gears and little tires... 4.88 and 36 would be just like stock... :nuts: but if the gear is slightly deeper than the size tire you went with (4.88/35) then you have more torque for wheelin right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88swampedmj Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 my brothers 4.0 with 4.88s and 35s is a little low on the gearing, i think the speedometer is about 10% off stock so that means 4.88s with 36s would be just about perfect, thats on an auto though yea but, running 36s with 4.88s to get the stock speedo reading isnt so good.. then its like running stock gears with little tires... you need gearing/torque for wheelin ? i don't follow, running 35s with 4.88s would be similar to running stock gears and little tires... 4.88 and 36 would be just like stock... :nuts: but if the gear is slightly deeper than the size tire you went with (4.88/35) then you have more torque for wheelin right? in my mind it works.. if you get 4.88s and 35s or 36s the size and wieght of the tire kind of cancels out your gearing.. iam sayin for rock crawling the lower the gear the better off you are.. or i could be wrong lol wouldnt be the first time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panama red Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 I had 38" TSLs with 5.89 gears in my yj also built up 4.0 (cam lifters...) and it felt simular to a stock gear/tire combo. but i would like a little lower if it would have been possible. For wheelin the lower the better till a certain point, it can get to low. my 5.13s are not as low as i would like for the tires i have and I already want 38's. I you get 4.56 you'll wish you got 4.88s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 oh ok, i wasnt thinkin bout weight but yeah we're on the same page now. the difference is in stick-auto... the torque converter multiplies output by 2 iirc, so you don tneed as deep of gears, stick go as deep as possible! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted December 7, 2007 Author Share Posted December 7, 2007 Well its been a while... We never did do the axle swap, but we wheeled the heck out of it... She actually damaged the bed pretty good on one run, got stuck in a real tight spot between tree's in deep mud. She ended up planting a tree right between the cab and rear wheel and pivited off the tree, left a nice battle scar. The rear D35 finally let go at an offroad park up in Gilbert MN. So we got the bronco axles in the garage and up on some saw ponies to start working on... So not much for plans right now, swap in the bronco axles with the stock gears for now and just run my old 33's and play with it for a while until we have the cash to do some gears and 36's... Oh and I haven't finished my Jeep yet, thats why we held off on the mj axle swap. I wanted to have at least 1 jeep running, even if it was my gf's jeep and I just road along with her. She's learning how to handle the MJ pretty well! My junk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted December 7, 2007 Share Posted December 7, 2007 oh ok, i wasnt thinkin bout weight but yeah we're on the same page now. the difference is in stick-auto... the torque converter multiplies output by 2 iirc, so you don tneed as deep of gears, stick go as deep as possible! The torque convertermultiplies by 2 on a holeshot and by about 4mph in low range it's not doing much multiplication if any. It mainly multipies torque until the engine reaches about 1800rpm. If 36" tires and 4.88 gears are the same as what stock gearing is the gearing should be even deeper because it takes more torque multiplication to offset the weight of the larger tires. I have the same axle swap I'm doing with the same tire size. My MJ will be using a 4.0 HO and an AW-4 transmission. My gearing choice is 5.13 minimum and I might just use a 5.38 in the front and a 5.43 gear in the rear. :brows: Go deep or go home Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted December 7, 2007 Share Posted December 7, 2007 Also remember the AW-4 has a .79-.75 OD gear ratio and the AX-15 has a .85 OD ratio. The steeper gear will be better on the highway with the auto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted October 4, 2008 Author Share Posted October 4, 2008 Long time no update!!! After she blew the D35 up over in MN I just ended up welding everything together on it last fall. We wheeled it all winter and played with it this summer a bit. I can't believe I haven't twisted apart one of those axle shafts! But Now the front D30 is on its last legs, unit bearings shot, ball joints gone.... We kept putting off the axle swap because my wrangler wasn't done yet and I wanted something to wheel while mine was down. But mine is done now so... We ended up trading the Ford 9" out of the bronco for a 70's ford D60 and will run 3/4 ton GM disk brakes. We are keeping the Ford HP44 up front, but its all setup now with 3/4 ton Chevy d44 flat top knuckles and all 3/4 ton chevy outters. Both axles are getting 5.38 gears, the 60 is getting welded, and the 44 is getting an aussie locker. As of right now we are trying to keep this cheap and not doing hi-steer, just flipping the tie rod above the knuckle and reaming everything out to fit 1-ton GM tre's. Oh and it will all be rollin' on 8 bolt h1's and 36" military goodyears... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted December 14, 2008 Author Share Posted December 14, 2008 Well, I found a good deal on a used, but rebuilt a couple seasons ago, E47 pump. I have started to build my mount over the weekend, and I keep changing my mind how I want to to it. I just want to make it look nice so i'm being overly picky, but its fun. I also downloaded the 50 some page user manual from meyers website, mostly for the wire diagrams. And I picked up some momentary DPDT toggle switches from radio shaft and a few feet of different color wires to make my controler. Hell they are going on ebay for close to a hundred bucks for a couple feet of wire and 2 switches that I got at radio shack for $12. Only thing I need is to go down to napa and pick up a solenoid... I'll post more pics when I actually make some progress. I need to work fast, we got our first snow of the year today!! slow start on things. Not going to use my sketch above for the mount exactly like I drew it. I picked up a little bit of 1/4" angle iron and going to do something like the western mount. Up front i'll catch the 3 bumper bolts, then in the back I'll catch the large sleeved hole on the side of frame as well as the holes on the bottom that the splash guard and sway bar mount to. As far as the hoop goes, not sure on that yet. Build it as it goes I guess :cheers: Here is a start on the bumper... yeah, the winch will come off and the plow hoop will bolt to the winch plate. I'm putting 1/4" angle welded under the plate and will thro bolt everything to that. So here are the side plates for the plow mount, these are separate from the bumper and its mounts, again so it can all be unbolted. I'm out of metal now tho so i'll have to wait til monday to get more. this pic everything is sitting on the floor upside down. here is is right side up. here is one of the brackets that the plow carriage will mount to with some reciever pins, 3/8" thick. i'm going to weld these to a 2x2 square tube across the bottom. Then put in some triangulation to resist lateral forces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted December 14, 2008 Author Share Posted December 14, 2008 Well, I found a good deal on a used, but rebuilt a couple seasons ago, E47 pump. I have started to build my mount over the weekend, and I keep changing my mind how I want to to it. I just want to make it look nice so i'm being overly picky, but its fun. I also downloaded the 50 some page user manual from meyers website, mostly for the wire diagrams. And I picked up some momentary DPDT toggle switches from radio shaft and a few feet of different color wires to make my controler. Hell they are going on ebay for close to a hundred bucks for a couple feet of wire and 2 switches that I got at radio shack for $12. Only thing I need is to go down to napa and pick up a solenoid... I'll post more pics when I actually make some progress. I need to work fast, we got our first snow of the year today!! slow start on things. Not going to use my sketch above for the mount exactly like I drew it. I picked up a little bit of 1/4" angle iron and going to do something like the western mount. Up front i'll catch the 3 bumper bolts, then in the back I'll catch the large sleeved hole on the side of frame as well as the holes on the bottom that the splash guard and sway bar mount to. As far as the hoop goes, not sure on that yet. Build it as it goes I guess :cheers: Here is a start on the bumper... yeah, the winch will come off and the plow hoop will bolt to the winch plate. I'm putting 1/4" angle welded under the plate and will thro bolt everything to that. So here are the side plates for the plow mount, these are separate from the bumper and its mounts, again so it can all be unbolted. I'm out of metal now tho so i'll have to wait til monday to get more. this pic everything is sitting on the floor upside down. here is is right side up. here is one of the brackets that the plow carriage will mount to with some reciever pins, 3/8" thick. i'm going to weld these to a 2x2 square tube across the bottom. Then put in some triangulation to resist lateral forces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted December 17, 2008 Author Share Posted December 17, 2008 2x4 rec tube for the crossmember that the plow a-frame will attach to. 1.5" square tube for my triangulation. Do you think that is enough or do I need to add more to it? And of the obligatory weld pics... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BREEZE1 Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 nice work, ill bet its fun as crap plowing the roads in that thing!!! i hate to :hijack: but is that a pre 86 mustang gt with the sunk in head lights????? i can't tell if its a notch or hatch!!! i want one of those soo bad i can't see straight!! :clapping: :banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BREEZE1 Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 ok i see that its a hatch, let me know if you ever want to give it away. ha ha. i love it!! :yes: :bowdown: :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted December 17, 2008 Author Share Posted December 17, 2008 83 GT, carbed 302, 4 speed manual, southern cali car zero rust, but in need of restoration... Ok, back to Manche stuff now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 2x4 rec tube for the crossmember that the plow a-frame will attach to. 1.5" square tube for my triangulation. Do you think that is enough or do I need to add more to it? And of the obligatory weld pics... Looks good so far but you will probably need more supports from the lower mount to the frame further back. Most of the stress incured in plowing is rearward on the vehicle. Other wise it looks good. Now build me a duplicate. :rotfl2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrusty Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 :agree: I ran an angle support back to the unibody just behind the swaybar mounts.......Has been working great for over a year now....just have to remember its not a bull dozer....lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted December 18, 2008 Author Share Posted December 18, 2008 The side plates go pack past the sway bar mounts... Not sure where I would mount anything else, i'm already catching that large sleeved hole in the frame. The only possible other place I could think would be to run under the axle and back on the unibody where the lca, mount, but I don't want to do that! If anyone has any pics of what you did post them up! I could use some idea's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted December 19, 2008 Author Share Posted December 19, 2008 Never fails, soon as I get motivated to be out in the cold and I start laying some beads down.... Out of fawking wire for the hobart :x Its to late to bother going to depot to get any. But I did try and test fit the mount to the Jeep. One big problem, I can't lift it and man handle it into position and hold it and so on. Balancing it on the floor jack was just as bad. All this led me to my next invention!!! And just put Rod "A" in Slot "B".... Its a snug fit just the way I like it... Its pretty much you basic geometric dimensioning and tolerance fixed pin scenario... I nailed the virtual condition of the pin, taking in account the perpendicularity and form tolerances, to the diameter of the hole on the floor jack, and so on. Its pretty standard stuff really :P Oh, and I started welding the tabs on the tube for the plow carriage mounts. I'm a little worried about crushing the tube right there so i'm going to add some plates on the top and bottom to spread out the load more on the rec tube... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted December 20, 2008 Author Share Posted December 20, 2008 Got the GF out there working on her bumper for her Jeep, cutting and welding... Someday i'll own my on MJ to work on but for now I'll just have to live vicariously through her ;) And her first welds, needs a little practice but pretty good for her first time. I'm having her do all the non critical welds on her bumper to learn how to use the MIG, that thing makes anyone look good :bowdown: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted December 23, 2008 Author Share Posted December 23, 2008 Didn't get $#!& done tonight, too cold and I have to go to bed early tonight. I did finish up a little work of jaemes on the bumper, grinding down her nice welds and whatnot... I started working on getting that old rusty meyers hoop to bolt down on the winch plate. I was trying to get the damn thing centered on there and couldn't :?: So I started measuring the hoop itself and its @#$%ing crooked and the center tabs where the pump and lift arm mount are offset nearly 2".... So its officially scrap now. After all the work i've done so far there is no way i'm going to use a rusty, crooked, off-center, pile of booger welds :!: I'm going to fab up my own hoop, not sure yet on the way it'll turn out tho... Well here is the bumper anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92comanche4x4 Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 can't wait to see it done! i now what ya mean with bein cold i was doin an altenator on mine tonight and belt and here in detroit its like 5 degrees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted December 25, 2008 Author Share Posted December 25, 2008 well I started piecing together a new hoop out of some 2x2x1/4" angle iron I had. Other than that I laid some more weld on things I had tacked together, and shot some more paint on stuff. Here is the old hoop, it doesn't look that bad in the pics but it looks like poo in real life... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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