earl*t Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 Will I be able to fit 31s under my MJ if it's pretty muc stock hight? I'm gettin new tires tomarrow Did you get your tires? If so, how about some input and pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oyaji Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 Earl, thanks for posting the image. I was going to do it since you had trouble; glad you got it worked out. Would you still post the link to the page you found the image, please? I'm curious about what else accompanied the chart you posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earl*t Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 Sure thing Oyaji. http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/wheels-tires/154-0512-jeep-lift-tire-fitment-charts/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadinator Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 Gamblers. Yes, 5 hole factory 15X8 TJ Wheel. 31X10.5 BFG AT's. Mine has 15X8 TJ rims. Gamblers. Only rubbing on LCA's. Thought so. "Gamblers" are the factory 5-hole wheels, right? Those are the ones that would be my choice for a 15" wheel... but I would prefer a 16" or 17" wheel (even if only plain steel ones) if available to run 31s without rubbing. Anyone have info on any such options? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 MANY years ago, one of the early members of NAXJA (Ed Stevens) did a comprehensive investigation of what tire sizes would fit an XJ with stock suspension. The 31x10.50 originally came out of his research, along with the caveat that it requires factory rims, What Ed did was to rest the chassis on blocks, then remove the front springs. This allowed him to mount tires on the axle and use a floor jack to cycle the suspension from full droop through full compression. What he proved was that on factory rims 31x10.50s would tuck up INSIDE the fender flares and allow the suspension to reach the bump stops. Run aftermarket rims with less backspacing, and the tires hit the flares under compression long before the suspension hits the bump stops. For the rear, I think he just added weight to test compression. But for us MJers, the rear wheel wells are much larger than on the XJ. However, a 31x10.50 on factory rims does ride close to the inner fender liner and the leaf spring. The limiting dimension for the rear of the MJ is the tire width, not the height. I ran 31x10.50s on my '88 MJ for a couple of years after I removed the lift. I am currently running 31x10.50s on my '88 XJ -- at stock height. The only interference is the inner shoulder of the tire rubbing the lower control arm at full steering lock. The WJ LCAs would cure that, but it hasn't been a problem so I don't worry about it. What y'all need to recognize is that LIFT WILL NOT ALLEVIATE THIS ISSUE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earl*t Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 I totally agree Eagle. The intent is to avoid lift. The only reason I introduced the Jp tire/lift chart was to verify one possible reason why so much confusion exists on 31" tire fitment. Thanks for sharing Ed Stevens interesting test results. Perhaps this thread will alleviate misconceptions about what will work for future members. I've searched this topic and it appears that this is a reoccurring theme. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oyaji Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 MANY years ago, one of the early members of NAXJA (Ed Stevens) did a comprehensive investigation of what tire sizes would fit an XJ with stock suspension. The 31x10.50 originally came out of his research, along with the caveat that it requires factory rims, What Ed did was to rest the chassis on blocks, then remove the front springs. This allowed him to mount tires on the axle and use a floor jack to cycle the suspension from full droop through full compression. What he proved was that on factory rims 31x10.50s would tuck up INSIDE the fender flares and allow the suspension to reach the bump stops. Run aftermarket rims with less backspacing, and the tires hit the flares under compression long before the suspension hits the bump stops. For the rear, I think he just added weight to test compression. But for us MJers, the rear wheel wells are much larger than on the XJ. However, a 31x10.50 on factory rims does ride close to the inner fender liner and the leaf spring. The limiting dimension for the rear of the MJ is the tire width, not the height. I ran 31x10.50s on my '88 MJ for a couple of years after I removed the lift. I am currently running 31x10.50s on my '88 XJ -- at stock height. The only interference is the inner shoulder of the tire rubbing the lower control arm at full steering lock. The WJ LCAs would cure that, but it hasn't been a problem so I don't worry about it. What y'all need to recognize is that LIFT WILL NOT ALLEVIATE THIS ISSUE. Sounds like Ed Stevens knew his stuff. By sharing his exhaustive results he saved those of us who pay heed the trouble of duplicating his work. As far as I am concerned, lifts are the work of the devil. They bring expense in not only in parts cost, but also burn more fuel. They make a vehicle more dangerous, because they raise the center of gravity and thereby reduce braking effectiveness, cornering, and make a vehicle vastly more prone to rollover. Though their merits cannot be denied for some off-road applications, even there the minimum lift to perform as intended should be used because regardless of the application, lift complicates vehicle dynamics and reduces stability and safety. I am interested in relatively "skinny" tires (tires of stock width or only somewhat wider) mounted on larger diameter wheels. I need to be able to run across beach sand here to launch boats, and though I can do it with stock 215/75 15s and use of four-wheel-drive, I have had to air down my tires and have still gotten stuck more than once (inconvenient, because to get myself out I have to ditch the boat trailer, drive out, then hitch back up at an angle - or drag the trailer out with a strap). What I want is to use taller tires instead of wider so as to not get stuck while still retaining or improving my fuel economy. Seems to me that wheel diameter should not matter so long as factory backset is retained, and that 7" or 8" wheel width may be used. Are there 16x8 and/or 17x8 wheel offerings with factory 5.25" backset? If so, what are they called, and does anyone have a picture of them? Factory or aftermarket, plain or fancy, steel or aluminum, as long as they have the 5.25" factory backset I'd like to see any you guys mention and hear of your experience in fitting them to MJs/Xjs - thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earl*t Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 :rotf: "...lifts are the work of the devil"...How do you really feel? :laughin: Your passion is undeniable! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 I have 31/10.5/15 on my MJ the rubbed at full lock so I did the washer trick and had no issues. Then I wanted that wide stance so I got some 2" wheel spacers and have no had any issues with it. Even with flexing Ive had no issues..see page 3 of my build thread below for some pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 If your avatar pic is accurate, you don't have flares... haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted November 16, 2013 Share Posted November 16, 2013 If your avatar pic is accurate, you don't have flares... haha. Lol no where did I say I had flares, so I don't get your point... But since my finders are uncut, that's still a mute issue because the flares don't effect how much room there is, the sheet metal does Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 If your avatar pic is accurate, you don't have flares... haha. Lol no where did I say I had flares, so I don't get your point... But since my finders are uncut, that's still a mute issue because the flares don't effect how much room there is, the sheet metal does No, the flares extend both down and outward from the sheet metal. Large tires on aftermarket rims that might not hit the sheet metal could very easily still hit the flares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oyaji Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 How about the 16" and 17" five-spoke 5-on-4.5" factory aluminum rims - what are they called, "Rubicons"? Are they available in 7" width? 8"? And the 16" steel factory wheels - what width(s) are they? I'm guessing they would have the 5.25" backset - is that the case? Probably the easiest to get a 6-ply tire for would be a 16" rim, but 17s would have less sidewall and be better for the street. Should be no problem to find a 31" diameter tire for either of them, I reckon. Eagle, got any info to pony up? Anybody? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 I ran 31x10.50s on a stock Cherokee with factory 15x7 wheels for about a year. The rubbed the rear flares when going over bumps in the road. Cherokee rear wheel wells are much smaller than Comanche ones. As noted above, 10.50" wide tires run close to the inside wall of the wheel well in an MJ. This can possibly be solved by spacers while still staying inside the fenders. The aforementioned now runs 265/75R16 tires (32x10.50) on stock steel 16x7 KJ Liberty wheels, WJ lower control arms and about 3" lift. Tires fit inside fenders, but I have had to cut some off the inside edges of both front and rear flares. Outside (visible part) of flares are still intact. And yes, the backspacing on those Liberty wheels is 5.25". A 245/75R16 should be about the same height as a 31 tall but about an inch narrower. Would probably be a good fit on a stock MJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 wheel diameter doesn't matter as long as the tire diameter remains the same. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 wheel diameter doesn't matter as long as the tire diameter remains the same. :thumbsup: True. My 2000 XJ Sport came with 15" rims and 225/75R15 tires. Tire diameter is 28.3", cross-section is 8.9", revolutions-per-mile = 730. Wife's 2000 XJ Classic came with 16" rims and 225/70R16 tires. Tire diameter is 28.4", cross-section is 8.9", revolutions-per-mile = 736 (a difference of 0.8%). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rohls Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 I just put 31" TOYO AT2s on my MJ...2.5" coil spacers up front and a 3" AAL in the rear...pretty happy with the results...BUT... Anyone done something similar and had issues with the inner fender plastic piece getting destroyed??? I think it was rubbung on it and cracked the sh*t out of it. He right one is half way missing now. And the fender flars seemed to rub just a touch, so I ground them down iwth a dremel...seemed to be fine untl today with some minor offroading, and i heard a zzzzzzzzZZZzzzz.. crap. I stopped and couldn't find anything that messed up, so continued on. what gives? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oyaji Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 I ran 31x10.50s on a stock Cherokee with factory 15x7 wheels for about a year. The rubbed the rear flares when going over bumps in the road. Cherokee rear wheel wells are much smaller than Comanche ones. As noted above, 10.50" wide tires run close to the inside wall of the wheel well in an MJ. This can possibly be solved by spacers while still staying inside the fenders. The aforementioned now runs 265/75R16 tires (32x10.50) on stock steel 16x7 KJ Liberty wheels, WJ lower control arms and about 3" lift. Tires fit inside fenders, but I have had to cut some off the inside edges of both front and rear flares. Outside (visible part) of flares are still intact. And yes, the backspacing on those Liberty wheels is 5.25". A 245/75R16 should be about the same height as a 31 tall but about an inch narrower. Would probably be a good fit on a stock MJ. Thanks - just the sort of info I am seeking. Do those steel wheels also come in 16"x8"? I am still hoping to hear from someone with experience with 5-lug-on-4.5"-circle 17" factory wheels. Did Jeep offer them in steel, or only aluminum, and in what widths? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 Sorry, I do not know the answer to any of those questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 I am still hoping to hear from someone with experience with 5-lug-on-4.5"-circle 17" factory wheels. Did Jeep offer them in steel, or only aluminum, and in what widths? Did Jeep ever offer any 17" rim with the 5 x 4.5" bolt circle? They started with the 17" rims when they brought in the WJ version of the Grand Cherokee in 1999, and those were NOT 5 x 4.5". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 If your avatar pic is accurate, you don't have flares... haha. Lol no where did I say I had flares, so I don't get your point... But since my finders are uncut, that's still a mute issue because the flares don't effect how much room there is, the sheet metal does No, the flares extend both down and outward from the sheet metal. Large tires on aftermarket rims that might not hit the sheet metal could very easily still hit the flares. I highly doubt the inch in either direction would really make a difference..but thanks for clearing that up for me. Now that I reread my post I kinda sound like a douche but that was not my goal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oyaji Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 I am still hoping to hear from someone with experience with 5-lug-on-4.5"-circle 17" factory wheels. Did Jeep offer them in steel, or only aluminum, and in what widths? Did Jeep ever offer any 17" rim with the 5 x 4.5" bolt circle? They started with the 17" rims when they brought in the WJ version of the Grand Cherokee in 1999, and those were NOT 5 x 4.5". Aren't these in the picture below 17", and called "Rubicons"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 The Compass and Liberty KJ had 17" and 18" factory 5 x 4.5" wheels for certain years. No idea on the BS though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 mine are 16s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 I am still hoping to hear from someone with experience with 5-lug-on-4.5"-circle 17" factory wheels. Did Jeep offer them in steel, or only aluminum, and in what widths? Did Jeep ever offer any 17" rim with the 5 x 4.5" bolt circle? They started with the 17" rims when they brought in the WJ version of the Grand Cherokee in 1999, and those were NOT 5 x 4.5". The first generation (KJ) Jeep Liberty also had 16" and larger wheels (and an 8.25" rear with disc brakes), but retained the 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern. Not until the next generation (KK, 2008 - ) did they move to 5 on 5. My Cherokee is running KJ wheels. The 16x7 ones are 5.25 backspacing. Don't knoe sbout the 17 and 18" ones as I have never had a set in my posession. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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