Wj Booster Won't Fit My 92

[bwiygul]

So i went to the jy yesterday and pulled out a brake booster and master from an 04 grand cherokee (wj). i got it home pulled mine and measured both of the rods and they're about 1/16 off of each other . i think the wj was shorter but it could just be my measuring as well. either way when i put in the new one the booster bumps up against the lip right at the top of the engine bay as well as the seam on the drivers side of the booster. is there something wrong here? 

 

i've read threads about this swap for about 2 weeks and everybody said i'd need spacers but if i put spacers in then it will be too short and i never saw a thing about the booster having clearance issues. any help would be greatly appreciated before i have to make another trip to the jy to get the 95/96 booster and hope that works. :) thanks

[88whitemanche]

Check out this thread...it does say to bend that lip up so you can clearance the booster

 

http://comancheclub.com/topic/24430-wj-booster-and-master-cylinder-upgrade/

[xjrev10]

Just beat the "lip" out of the way. With a BFH of course!

[Blue88Comanche]

:agree:  use a hammer to bend that lip for clearance.  your windshield washer tank may also need to be moved

[jimoshel]

Don't mutilate a good MJ. Beat a groove into the back of the booster instead. :rotfl2:

[skidoo_j]

has anyone ever tied a 2000 wrangler booster/master combo?    One was just posted on cl and it looks like it already has the correct push rod, just not sure on the length of the rod.   http://medford.craigslist.org/pts/4101326190.html

 

 

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Cardone-Reman-Brake-Power-Booster/2000-Jeep-Wrangler-4WD/_/N-je9qeZ8kn7z?itemIdentifier=232691_131640_7889_

[HOrnbrod]

I opted for the proven easy way out and used the 95/96 XJ booster/master combo for my swap because I knew it was a true bolt-on application for the HO MJs w. zero problems. And with the spacer I knew I didn't have to beat on the lip or anything else to make it fit.  Before I did it though I researched everywhere to see if the WJ booster or any other application was "better" for some reason, and I found nothing. I am very satisfied with the 95/95 XJ booster/master combo swap, along with the Explorer rear disks. They compliment each other. The MJ brakes perform as well as our new JK and everything else I've driven since.

 

However, I'm always open to braking improvements of any kind, and welcome them. Like the 2000 wrangler booster/master combo mentioned above. Go for it. I don't know how it could be documented as "better" than the 95/96 XJ swap though, unless you have had both applications on the same vehicle and can do an informed comparison evaluation. Until I see something like that, I'm sticking with what I have.

[jimoshel]

I've been thinking about doing a similar swap for the improved brakes. I have a '94 and a '97 WJ. Is either one of these the same as the '95-'96?

[HOrnbrod]

The 95/96 XJ booster/master is a designed fitment for the same firewall our MJs have. The WJ stuff is not. So mods have to be made to retain correct pedal level and brake switch activation clearances. But since I haven't done a WJ swap into an MJ, WTF do I know?  Others have so they can answer mo betta than I.

[skidoo_j]

Hornbred is correct.  If you have a 91 or 92  the 95/96 is really the best and direct option.    If you have pre 91 all require modifications.  I just did the wj and it was not that bad.  I was able to retain position of my airbox and washer bottle.   the lip did get massaged and the push rod get modified.   

 

 

I only brought up and questioned the wrangler 2000 as it was for sale on my local craigslist and the push rod looks like the one for the renix era.  I no longer have my old booster to take measurements from, but it appears the wrangler 2000 maybe a direct bolt with no mods for our renix era pending push rod length.

 

 

Maybe someone has a renix booster laying around and could measure from mounting surface to center of push rod and i could get the local guy to measure the same to see if it would be a more direct swap.   

[mvusse]

With my 35" tires, the stock brakes were an accident waiting to happen, so when I moved up to 37s I installed a booster out of a 96 XJ. Got around the pedal mods by swapping in the 96 brake pedal as well, and spliced in the plug for the 96 brake pedal switch into my 87 dash harness. Very happy with the outcome.

[carnuck]

When I swap the front and rear diff (I already did the '96 XJ or ZJ booster) I plan to upgrade the brakes some more. ZJ for the front and discs on the 8.8" rear. I currently have ceramic brakes (put them on 10 years ago) and haven't done anything, but they need to be warmed up before the braking gets really good. I have far better braking with a load than empty.

[mvusse]

ZJ front brakes are no different than similar year XJ or Wrangler brakes. Possibly no different from 91-92 MJ brakes either.

[carnuck]

Same as '91 XJ probably, but I have the ZJ front brakes already (and the front diff with CV axles)  I'm swapping everything over to the '90 XJ D30 I have (non-vacuum) with 4.10 gears. They ARE better than the '87 MJ front brakes. If I wasn't doing an 8.8 rear diff swap, I'd do the '96 ZJ rear disc swap.

[mvusse]

For serious off road with a non-disconnect Dana 30, brace the sheetmetal passenger upper control arm bracket on the axle. The first three axles I grenaded were disconnect ones (with a single shaft conversion). The last Dana 30 in my truck was a non-disconnect out of a 96 parts XJ I had picked up. 5 months later the passenger upper control arm bracket got ripped off the axle while climbing a ravine.

 

People say the disconnect ones are weaker because the passenger side consists of two pieces of axle tube connected by the cast disconnect housing. I have never found that to be a weak link at all.

 

For street driving or mild trails you should have no problems with the stock bracket.