Zebvance Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 Bent my dana 30 tubes. want to swap to a stronger axle. I just did a 8.8 swap in the rear and I'm putting on serious off-roads 8 inch long arm lift right now. The truck is a beach rig and will be running 35-37 inch tires. I know everyone is against my lift/tire size choice, but I'm building the rig for what I use it for. COG is not a issue for me since it is just a beach rig and not a crawler. So I know the driver drop narrow track waggy d44 is a popular swap but what years did they come in. Also what are some other options I have? here a a few photos of my rig This is how bent the tube.. I think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanchemodder Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 Here is a linkk to driver side drop Dana 44 axles. The Waggy is about 3/4 down and outlines the years. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana44.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpace6a Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 can't be much help with the axle...but man that truck is sick! . :MJ 1: . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankTheDog Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 A 1977 1/2 - 1979 F250 high pinion Dana 44 or 73 - 77 F150 HP D44. You will want to narrow them. Also 85-91 wagoneer D44. You can narrow the Ford axles using Wagoneer shafts. The F250's will have 1/2" tubes, F150 either 5/16" or 3/8" A couple outfits make trusses to mount the control arm mounts. As far as knuckles you would want the F150 knuckles on any of the axles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheKid45 Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 I can not imagine your bent your Dana 30 by flexing. Dana 30 tubes are commonly bent by catching some air ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 yeah, it kinda sounds like you had a defective axle. :dunno: what about another Dana 30 and just add a truss? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 How would I go about narrowing a axle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 yeah, it kinda sounds like you had a defective axle. :dunno: what about another Dana 30 and just add a truss? Will it handle being locked and 37s? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 I can not imagine your bent your Dana 30 by flexing. Dana 30 tubes are commonly bent by catching some air ;) Yea not sure exactly how I bent them but the ball joints are good and everything else checks out. Did some Measurements and they are def bent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankTheDog Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 Take the outer knuckle off and grind out the welds that hold it to the tube. Measure the length of your original axle shaft then measure the new one and remove that distance from the end of the tube. Clean up the end of the tube and inside of knuckle and reassemble. That's the short version, there should be plenty of reading on the web if you search. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 I want to see some pictures of this bent tube! :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 yeah, it kinda sounds like you had a defective axle. what about another Dana 30 and just add a truss? Will it handle being locked and 37s? plenty of guys out there running 35s. not sure how many have 37s. :dunno: how long it survives depends entirely on how you wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted August 28, 2013 Author Share Posted August 28, 2013 Take the outer knuckle off and grind out the welds that hold it to the tube. Measure the length of your original axle shaft then measure the new one and remove that distance from the end of the tube. Clean up the end of the tube and inside of knuckle and reassemble. That's the short version, there should be plenty of reading on the web if you search. I will def not be putting that much work into it. I would rather just get another Dana 30 from the junk yard befor I do all that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted August 28, 2013 Author Share Posted August 28, 2013 I want to see some pictures of this bent tube! :yes: Ill see if I can get some pictures tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 Do any of you have a facebook? theres a huge thread going on right now about this debate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted August 28, 2013 Author Share Posted August 28, 2013 yes I have a Facebook. What debate are you talking about and why is Facebook needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted August 28, 2013 Author Share Posted August 28, 2013 here are some pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 what's your toe and caster set to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted August 28, 2013 Author Share Posted August 28, 2013 I'm not sure I know they are way off cause I just got done doing the steering. But that should have nothing to do with the camber of the tire correct. The camber on a Soild axle is non adjustable and I have negitive camber. My ball joints have no play, so therefore my axle or knuckles are best correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 I ask because tires can have a funny way of making things look worse than they are. I would jack up the front end on a pair of jackstands and check the toe with a tape measure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MancheKid86 Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 take your pipe used that you used on the tires and rest it on the axle tubes, see if they are straight, aswell like pete said cneck your toe in/out also 35/37 on 8 inch of lift isnt bad at all, and a dana 30 can survive 35/37" tires, depends on how hard u push the skinny pedal, what gears you have, and if you have a locker in the front, trussing it will prevent the tubes from bending get another d30 if yours is bent, preferably a HP, and truss it have you jacked up your front end? when jacking it up see if the tires droop changing the camber, that will elminate ball joints ( if you checked it while the tires were on the ground, there will be too much preload, and will mask it to seem like theres no play) also, do you have adjustable control arms? if so, you can control the degrees of camber, since your axle is fixed to a pre determined angle, rotating the axle by shortening or extending the lower control arms will actually change the angle could you take more photos, where you can actually see the axle tubes that are not hidden behind your drag link, tie rods, track bar? ie. from behind (yes youll have to lay under your truck :P) or take a shot from underneath said items? **edit** just noticed this, completely unrelated, hows your steering while turning right? your adjustable steering stabilizer looks like the piston travel isnt set to half way for centered tires Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stacks Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 The camber is indeed 'adjustable' on a D30. I just finished doing the D30 on my MJ. There are two ways to change the camber. Use offset ball joints or replace the bushing the ball joints go into. They come in varying amounts of change. The bushings are by far the least expensive and a more stable way of making the camber adjustment. If anyone wants to hear more detail PM me and I'll send you my cell number. Far easier to explain it verbally than in print. I got my bushings at NAPA although I'm sure others have them also. My camber was out by 9 tenths on the left side and 7 tenths on the right. I put in 1 degree bushings and that brought it back into spec. It looked like the first photo Zebvance posted though not quite as much. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue XJ Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 The camber is indeed 'adjustable' on a D30. I just finished doing the D30 on my MJ. There are two ways to change the camber. Use offset ball joints or replace the bushing the ball joints go into. Larry What bushings do the balljoints go into on a D30? They press right into the knuckle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stacks Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 The knuckle has a threaded in insert with a tapered hole in it that the ball joint presses into. If you look on the bottom of the lower part of the knuckle you will see 4 equally spaced slots/notches around the opening for the ball joint. There's a special inexpensive socket that fits into those slots to remove and install the inserts/bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 yes I have a Facebook. What debate are you talking about and why is Facebook needed? Its the group MJ XJ proud and someone asked about keeping the D30 or upgrading and there was a 100 comment thread going on about it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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