CommaComanche Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 Picked up the comanche and got it home. Was going to try to drive it home and that idea was killed about 13 miles into the trip when the transmission started slipping and I couldn't get past 35. Pulled into a uhaul and loaded it onto the trailer. Once I got it in the air I found out what the problem was. Transmission fluid is literally shooting out of it. Found the problem is coming from the line coming out of the trans cooler. I am going to replace the trans cooler and the lines. While I am at it I am going to go through and replace just about all of the parts on the engine that typically wear out in time. What do you guys recommend for the replacement trans cooler kit. Also, what parts do you recommend I replace right off the bat as preventative measures? This is going to be my DD and needs to be reliable as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankTheDog Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 Don't fix what ain't broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CommaComanche Posted August 7, 2013 Author Share Posted August 7, 2013 I am a fan of preventative maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 I'm with commacomanche with preventive maintenance...yeah it'll cost money but better to be safe than sorry...and who knows what the PO has done with the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 If it's a Renix era MJ, 87 to 90, click on the link in my signature and have fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 I am a fan of preventative maintenance. Preventive maintenance refers to "maintaining," not necessarily "replacing." Simple example -- the older XJs and MJs did not have a grease fitting on the upper end of the track bar, where it attaches to the frame. Those track bars typically lasted maybe 75,000 miles. I don't know when they changed, but the replacements, and those on newer XJs, have a grease fitting. The one on my wife's 2000 XJ is over 100,000 miles and just as tight as the day I picked up the vehicle from the dealership. My '88 XJ is still on it's first replacement track bar and the vehicle is now at 287,000 miles. Grease is "preventive maintenance." Replacing a part that doesn't need to be replaced is not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CommaComanche Posted August 7, 2013 Author Share Posted August 7, 2013 I am a fan of preventative maintenance. Preventive maintenance refers to "maintaining," not necessarily "replacing." Simple example -- the older XJs and MJs did not have a grease fitting on the upper end of the track bar, where it attaches to the frame. Those track bars typically lasted maybe 75,000 miles. I don't know when they changed, but the replacements, and those on newer XJs, have a grease fitting. The one on my wife's 2000 XJ is over 100,000 miles and just as tight as the day I picked up the vehicle from the dealership. My '88 XJ is still on it's first replacement track bar and the vehicle is now at 287,000 miles. Grease is "preventive maintenance." Replacing a part that doesn't need to be replaced is not. I agree don't replace something that doesnt need to be replaced. Just because a motor has 200K on it doesnt mean it is time to rip it out even though it starts every time. I was more so talking along the lines of things like my belts. I can clearly see cracks in both of them, so those are getting replaced. I would rather replace them now than have them break while I am on the road. I just cleaned (somewhat) my engine and engine bay and can clearly see things so much better now. I don't think it has ever been done to the vehicle before. But, Now I am seeing a lot of rubber bushings that have more cracks in them than the face of a 95 year old that spent every day in the sun. So, those are also going to be replaced asap. While cleaning I noticed that the radiator has the built in transmission cooler and the radiator is practically new. Now that I can see the parts it looks like the line that runs from the drivers side back to the trans is what is leaking. Hopefully if I replace that and do a full trans flush (the fluid in it looks more like crude oil than trans fluid) it will run great. Here is a short list of the immediate projects that will be happening over the next 2 weeks. Oil change Trans fluid flush Coolant flush Belt changes Spark plug inspection / replace grounds inspections / repairs Fix a slightly high idle (hopefully a simple fix) More engine / parts cleaning Light bulb replacements (tail light is out) lube as necessary (hood latch and cable for sure...door hinges / mechanisims and such) Kill switch - poor mans anti-theft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CommaComanche Posted August 7, 2013 Author Share Posted August 7, 2013 Great news. I just added a couple quarts of trans fluid so I could clearly find the leak. When I did all of the bad sounds from the transmission were eliminated. I got it up on the ramps with no problems. I had to put it in 4 wheel drive because I was sitting in a bit of a muddy gravel puddle from cleaning the engine and the rear wheels were just spinning. But, that is another good thing because the 4 wheel drive works. When the PO changed the radiator it looks like he ran a new trans fluid line as well. There is a cut off unused line under there that I am going to remove just because it looks like crap. I also found the leak. There is a small pin hole in the line that connects to the passenger side of the radiator. It is at the 90 degree bend in the line before it runs down the drivers side of the engine. Looks like I just need to change out that line and my transmission problems will be solved. Another good note. When I cleaned the engine off...It is beautiful (for being close to 30 years old). It still needs some more cleaning which I will get to, but I am super excited and happy with the way the project is going. I was pretty stressed out when I had problems 13 miles into a 500+ mile trip. Hopefully I can get the line replaced and trans flush / oil change done tomorrow before I go to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankTheDog Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 Don't fix what ain't broke doesn't mean not doing preventive maintanence. A cracked belt is worn out= broke. I meant don't change parts just for the sake of changing parts. Only replace the parts that are wore. Which will be most anything made of rubber. Check your harmonic balancer, the rubber in them come unlaminated too with age. Do what you are doing, clean and evaluate how wore a part is. If you fire the parts cannon at it you'll spend a lot of money and end up with out enough when something unexpected breaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CommaComanche Posted August 8, 2013 Author Share Posted August 8, 2013 That is more what i meant. What do you guys recommend I inspect for signs of wear? It is an 86 with 130k on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 That is more what i meant. What do you guys recommend I inspect for signs of wear? It is an 86 with 130k on it What engine and trans? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CommaComanche Posted August 8, 2013 Author Share Posted August 8, 2013 That is more what i meant. What do you guys recommend I inspect for signs of wear? It is an 86 with 130k on it What engine and trans? It is the 4 cylinder 2.5L TBI....don;t know what trans it is...This Comanche is a learning experience for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CommaComanche Posted August 8, 2013 Author Share Posted August 8, 2013 Went to go pull out the damaged trans line and quickly discovered it is not a project to get into when I have to be to work in a couple hours. But I did manage to get to the store and get all of the trans fluid, ordered the trans pan gasket and filter, and completed an oil....errr...sludge removal and replaced it with oil. With the trans line being so difficult to get at to replace I had an idea. Could I cut the trans line I have and use a flaring tool to replace the damaged section? This would be a whole lot easier and I don't see any reason why it would not work just as well. The hole is on the top side of the 90 degree bend. Also, the cut line next to it....Is there a reason for that? Or just an old line? It doesn't appear to do anything at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmodman Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Don't fix what ain't broke doesn't mean not doing preventive maintanence. A cracked belt is worn out= broke. I meant don't change parts just for the sake of changing parts. Only replace the parts that are wore. Which will be most anything made of rubber. Check your harmonic balancer, the rubber in them come unlaminated too with age. Do what you are doing, clean and evaluate how wore a part is. If you fire the parts cannon at it you'll spend a lot of money and end up with out enough when something unexpected breaks. To me, by definition, an automatic is broke as soon as they make it. So much less reliable than a standard. So, if going for total reliability, I'd put a swap in my future. But that's me and I go to great lengths to get things exactly how I want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 That has to be the old transmission line that the PO never removed. You need to trace that line to determine exactly where it is coming from before you start yanking on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CommaComanche Posted August 8, 2013 Author Share Posted August 8, 2013 I'm going to chase it back and see where it goes and how difficult it will be to remove.. I'm assuming the po left it because it was a pita to remove Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CommaComanche Posted August 9, 2013 Author Share Posted August 9, 2013 Got the broken section of trans line cut out today. I went to auto zone and picked up a new piece of line, a flaring tool, some fittings and a bender. But, the flaring tool won't flare the line on the truck. It is only putting a slight flare, but nowhere near enough to make a joint with. It seems like the tube is slipping out of the tool. I have it as tight as it can go but no dice. Is there probably something I'm doing wrong? I have flared copper before with no problems. Maybe it's just a cheap crappy flaring tool? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankTheDog Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 Steel line? For transmission line just use a brass fitting with ferrules, no need to flare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 Got the broken section of trans line cut out today. I went to auto zone and picked up a new piece of line, a flaring tool, some fittings and a bender. But, the flaring tool won't flare the line on the truck. It is only putting a slight flare, but nowhere near enough to make a joint with. It seems like the tube is slipping out of the tool. I have it as tight as it can go but no dice. Is there probably something I'm doing wrong? I have flared copper before with no problems. Maybe it's just a cheap crappy flaring tool? Yes, probably a cheap "offshore" flaring tool if it's tightened hard as you can get it and still slips steel lines. My original el-cheapo tool works great on copper, but strikes out on steel lines most of the time. Invested in a Rigid tool (slightly used from Ebay) and never had that problem again. And agree with Frank above on the use of compression fittings on the low-pressure tranny coolant lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CommaComanche Posted August 10, 2013 Author Share Posted August 10, 2013 I had a ridgid one floating around my garage somewhere.. Couldn't find it and figured the one from the auto parts store would work... I'll take it back tomorrow and pick up a ridgid... I'd rather have flare fittings than compression.. Might be overkill.. But i already have the parts . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankTheDog Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 If you can, find an Imperial-Eastman flaring tool setup. Even just the clamp part will do. The one I have has the grip of death. Nothing has slipped through yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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