92tanMJ Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 (edited) I recently rebuilt my motor and I found a bunch of random lines, and I was hoping you guys could help me figure out where all the go? 1992 4.0 ax15 1.) Something to do with the A/c? And then the one of the washerfuild is a fuild level sensor? 2.)This one is hard to see, but there is a short one green like in the harness and a red one? I thinking the its for the elec. fan, because those wires are cut also. 3.)Drip stick line for trans some broke off? 4.)Honestly I don't even know 5.) Some vacume line cut that goes to the manifold? 6.) Image Not Found Thanks in advance for the help everyone! Edited November 22, 2013 by Zack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche1 Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 First pic is vaccum line for the heater valve that isn't there anymore. Last pic vaccum for map sensor? 3 is probly the vent tube for the trans bolts to the bell housing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Like 87 said, there is a vacuum operated valve on the heater lines that this would go to. Green wire would be for factory fogs, (i think) Red wire not sure, maybe power for the fogs? I do believe this is the vent line for transmission Not even the foggiest idea, blue wire maybe for one of the horns? The rubber line goes to the Charcoal canister, hard metal line runs back to the fuel tank and eventually the tank vents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Fix the tank vent #5. Is ther a charcoal cannister still in it? Cap the pink vac line (trim it back and cap it) does your heater blow out the defrost only? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 #3 on mine is the vent line for the transfer case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 Fix the tank vent #5. Is ther a charcoal cannister still in it? Cap the pink vac line (trim it back and cap it) does your heater blow out the defrost only? Ah okay so the "The charcoal canister absorbs unburnt fuel fumes and when the engine is running the fumes are sucked in & burned. It's a GOOD emissions sytem which does NOT reduce gas mileage (in fact it improves it by burning fuel vapors that would otherwise be released into the atmosphere)." So I guess I need to go buy one of those and hook it back up? I capped off the line, seems to work now blows out the right vent when selected. I update the first post with the intake manifold picture..maybe it will help some? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted November 22, 2013 Author Share Posted November 22, 2013 Bump? For the manifold picture..having some issues with my truck and they might be related to the tps or the vacume lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 The manifold picture: The hose with the bolt in it is for the source vacuum that goes over to the Cruise Control and HVAC controls via the vacuum reservoir behind the front bumper (which is probably long gone, or moved) . The small vac line is a "shadetree" modification, to the MAP sensor. The proper MAP connection goes from the MAP sensor to the throttle body...there should be a rubber plug in the TB, with two holes in it. One is a dummy hole, the other one goes IN to the TB and supplies metered vacuum to the MAP. Whoever did that to it probably ran out of vac line. The issues you're having are likely related to the hole in your throttle body, unless the PO plugged it. Still, ripping and tearing of vac lines "get rid of all that crap and get better mileage" leaves gaps in the system, and likely worse mileage and driveability issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 #3 on mine is the vent line for the transfer case. Yes, and attaches underneath the passenger side top bell housing to engine bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 The manifold picture: The hose with the bolt in it is for the source vacuum that goes over to the Cruise Control and HVAC controls via the vacuum reservoir behind the front bumper (which is probably long gone, or moved) . The small vac line is a "shadetree" modification, to the MAP sensor. The proper MAP connection goes from the MAP sensor to the throttle body...there should be a rubber plug in the TB, with two holes in it. One is a dummy hole, the other one goes IN to the TB and supplies metered vacuum to the MAP. Whoever did that to it probably ran out of vac line. The issues you're having are likely related to the hole in your throttle body, unless the PO plugged it. Still, ripping and tearing of vac lines "get rid of all that crap and get better mileage" leaves gaps in the system, and likely worse mileage and driveability issues. Then I know more Jeeps with the "shadetree" modification than I do with it hooked where you say it belongs. As in more than 5 of them I have seen just over the last month, out of only 8 I looked under the hood. Pretty sure that is factory. Come to think of it, I have never noticed vacuum ports on the throttle body. Will have to check for that this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 I can only report on what I've experienced with my Renix Jeeps. You're right about that. I looked, and the earlier HO's (XJ) have the MAP on the manifold. Both of them have the MAP line to the TB. They (88 and 90) don't even have the nipple for the MAP line on the intake manifold. Since the TB for an HO and Renix are different...I dunno :???: All my Renix models only have the vac source (one with bolt in it) line. ...and #5 is a fuel tank vent that should be attached to the charcoal canister...I think? :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 The HO vacuum cannister and fuel pressure vacuum lines come off the same "T-eed" manifold port, which frees up a dedicated manifold port for the MAP sensor. There is no vacuum port on the HO throttle body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted November 23, 2013 Author Share Posted November 23, 2013 Thank you all for you help. Someone else with a HO that they know most of the factory vacume lines are still in place- if it is not to much to ask, do you think you could snap me some pictures or a video of where everything is supposed to go? lol That would help me a lot more than the diagram I'm looking at Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeLAW Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 So which vacuum line do I need to cap in order for my HVAC to work how its suppossed to?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 So which vacuum line do I need to cap in order for my HVAC to work how its suppossed to?? Depends which line isnt connect. For me it's the line in picture 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 The black line coming out of the firewall operates the blend doors. It needs to be attached to the vac (foot)ball reservoir. The pink line operates the heater control valve....EDIT the one in the OP is gone...so it's just sucking air. Cap the pink line. I have mine trimmed back and capped, I'm not re-installing the heater valve. Then just make sure there is vacuum TO and FROM the vac reservoir*, and the black line (from the firewall) is hooked to the reservoir, *To test the vacuum to and from the ball , disconnect the fat vac line, put your finger over the end of the line. It should suck. Then re-connect the fat line to the ball, and put your finger over the small port, it should suck your finger. Then put it all back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeLAW Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 Ok thanks guys! I'm varely starting my own thread and will probably work on that in a couple of weeks, so I'll come back and check this out and compare it to mine! Thanks Again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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