RyanL Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 Update for today: Got most of the truck and associated pieces primed with the first of two or three coats of urethane primer today! The cab already has a solid coat of primer on it from the first restoration so it was mainly just the bed and bondo spots that needed it. The black that you see over the primer is a trick a talented body worker told me. You lightly mist some black spray paint (preferably a non-enamel) over everything. When you block it down, the contrast with the lighter primer makes it easier to see low spots and other imperfections. That being said, pictures! The passenger side, except for three or so spots that need some glazing putty, all done! (the drivers side needed a little more body work to be straight). Bumper, nose piece and flares: Fenders: Tomorrow should bring another coat of primer and maybe a little color and clear :yes: Stay tuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MancheKid86 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 looking good, you can use a stuff called guide coat instead of black enamel (thats what i use when blocking, i do body work on helicopters) keep up the great work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanL Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 looking good, you can use a stuff called guide coat instead of black enamel (thats what i use when blocking, i do body work on helicopters) keep up the great work! Thanks for the tips! I've read through your build and you have one hell of a truck! More to come tomorrow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanL Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 Update! Got the drivers side finished up today and primed! :yes: But it gets so much better! Here comes the best part..... Are you ready? You sure? PAINT! :clapping: The engine bay got first dibs! Friday the cab follows suit, and the following week the bed! Sure is shiny though! Look there's me! :waving: More to come! Stay tuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Sweeeeeeet. B) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheJon Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Sweet build so far man! Based off of you saying your folks got you that cherokee, we're probably about the same age and you've got at least double the skill I do. A few questions though, what brand paint/primer are you using and what are you spraying it with? What kind of sanding did you actually do before applying the primer? and what floor pans did you use(cherokee or comanche)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 He bought the cherokee, not me (well, I found it, but thats beside the point). He's paying his way...and I'm proud that he's taken that responsibility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanL Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 Sweet build so far man! Based off of you saying your folks got you that cherokee, we're probably about the same age and you've got at least double the skill I do. A few questions though, what brand paint/primer are you using and what are you spraying it with? What kind of sanding did you actually do before applying the primer? and what floor pans did you use(cherokee or comanche)? Thanks for the compliments! I'm in college right now, and they surprised me with it when I got back for the Christmas break. As for my skills, I owe my knowledge to my dad (Akula69) who taught me everything I know! The paint and primer we use a brand sold at Napa called Finish 1. They have multiple "grades" of the same product. For example, we are using the medium grade primer and the highest grade clear coat. The primer is a urethane primer (fills imperfections better and sands glass smooth compared to a lacquer primer). The gun is an old one, that uses a cup with a bag in it that sucks up with the air pressure, allowing you to spray any angle, even upside down, and it makes clean up a breeze! The sanding was different. The cab had been painted before from the first restoration, so just needed to be sanded with some 400 on the chips and dings, and 600 on the rest of it. Then we went back over it with a superfine 3M sanding pad and smoothed out the sand lines. Ready for paint. If it will be the truck's first paint job since it rolled off the factory line, I recommend using a DA (Dual Action Orbital Sander), and start with 120 or 180 on the roughest spots and take it down as far as you want. Personally, I try not to go below the E-Coat but if there is rust (like on the bed sourced from the PAP in my build) you need to go down to bare metal. After all the imperfections had been sanded out (low spots excluded) hit the whole bed with some 320 on the DA. The dents in my bed were pulled with a stud welder and filled with bondo. After that we hit the whole bed with 600. The spots that had rust before sanding got a coat of Rustoleom Rust Reformer. After that we blocked it with 600 again and then primed it. Sanded the primer down with 400 then 600 and followed it up with a super fine 3M pad. Feels like ice skating when you run your hand across it. The paint can directly follow the primer when it's sanded down. The floor pans can be listed for either model because the cab of the Comanche and the Cherokee, for all general purposes, are the same from the front of the B-pillars forward. It is possible to make your own from sheet metal but I didn't trust myself to do it right, and just bought some. They are thicker than the previous pans, but take a whole heck of a lot of convincing to sit right before welding in the corners. I believe they came from Rock Auto but I'm not 100% sure. Here they are laid in the truck: (We had to cut more than the pan covered, and cut another square to fit). I recommend keeping the top frame rail if it's salvageable and re-welding it back in when the new pans are in like in my build. If you get in a front end accident you risk the cab buckling towards you and making a mess of your knees and such. I hope that answered your questions! Don't hesitate to ask if you have anymore! Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Floor pans were from Raybuck Autobody Parts out of Punxsutawney, PA. $78.50 each.The shipping was harsh ($45.00), but the pans arrived in pristine condition despite the shipping box being mauled in the big brown truck. They are listed for the XJ, but work just as well for our trucks. Here ya go: http://raybuck.com/c-54807-repair-panels-jeep-1984-2001-cherokee-xj.html We did not buy the rear pan set, a friend of mine has a metal brake so we fabricated a section of the donor XJ roof panel into the rear pan, as well as replacing a section of the top frame rail that was too far gone. The paint gun is a SATA Jet 90, which, (if I had to guess) is about 30 years old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanL Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 What he said^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanL Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 Update for the day. A little color and clear :thumbsup: Man look at that shine :jump: The bed and body pieces (flares, grille, etc.) will be painted within the next two weeks but meanwhile, stuff can finally be put back in the truck! Stay tuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Looks awesome! Nice job on the bodywork and paint. I know first hand just how difficult it is. Now the fun part begins! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanL Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 Thank you for the compliments! I've been itching to get this thing put back together and back on the road where it belongs! Not to long now! :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanL Posted June 21, 2013 Author Share Posted June 21, 2013 Its about that time again.... I know its been a little while since my last update so here goes; First off the doors Got the doors back together except for the speakers and body panels. Also I didn't put the windows in because I didn't think it made sense without any power to run them! Next up engine bay! Everything but the hard lines are in, sealed, and ready to go! All except the engine of course! Last stop interior! The HVAC box, fuse panel, and back of the dash are IN. I can't tell yall how good it feels to get this far on the build. The key turn is getting closer and closer! If all goes well (IF), the engine will go in Saturday! Stay tuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanL Posted June 23, 2013 Author Share Posted June 23, 2013 Got the third of the four major problems of the 97+ swap rectified yesterday: The gas tank, The tank was from a 1992 Dodge Dakota. The senders were from a 1998 and 1992. To complete the fabrication, the 92 sender is needed for the 90 degree fitting for the vent line if installation of the roll over valve is the direction you wish to go. The body of the 98 is so the gas gauge will read correctly. To install the 22 gallon tank with the correct vacuum fittings and the roll over valve, you first cut the plastic valve out of the XJ tank. This will connect to the line from the vacuum canister required with the 97+ swap. It is very thick plastic and a dremel will not cut all the way though. We found that using a drill bit to get a hole in the tank and then sticking a hack saw blade and cutting by hand went the quickest. After cutting the valve out of the XJ tank and cleaning the edges up, cut a hole in the top of the Dakota tank using a forester bit (or a hole saw). Place the valve in the hole and seal it using a gas resistant sealer. This stuff says it works but only a real world test will tell. To install the roll over valve, a vent line is required on the top of the 98 sender. Disassemble the 92 sender (3 screws and the top pulls off). Coat the bottom of the valve with a lubricant (PB blaster worked for us) and push the seal out with a small screw driver. When a side pops out, push on the bottom of the valve with your palm and the whole thing just pops out like so: Drill a hole on the 98 sender with a hole saw right over the raised circle on the top. There are only two open sections on the top of the 98 sender, but the circle is easiest to visualize. File the hole down and insert. (Note: I recommend putting the sender in the tank when drilling to get good leverage. With it out the sender drops along it's track and it make drilling hard.) Don't forget to clean out the plastic shavings when you are done! Swap the top of the rollover valve filler neck with an MJ specific one and you are set until it comes time to mount the tank! More to come! Stay tuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanL Posted June 23, 2013 Author Share Posted June 23, 2013 Off to the fitting of the tank. Most everyone that has converted to the 22 gallon Dakota tank has said that it comes frighteningly close to the driveshaft. To rectify this we "sunk" the corner that hits the standoff of the frame under the back of the drivers side of the cab seen here: This is after we pushed it in. To actually push the corner in, you need two people. You will need a heat gun, a largish size fan, oven mitts, a small piece of flat steel and a wooden handled hammer. We used this to heat it: To actually do this first take the sender out of the tank. Power up the heat gun and SLOWLY heat the corner of the tank. The tank is thick, so it will take a while. After it is heated, get the second person with the oven mitts on to use the hammer handle to push the corner in. DO NOT push very hard or you will punch through the tank. You must hold the handle there until the plastic cools or it will pop back out again. That's what the fan is for. Turn it on and it cools the plastic faster. I advise against using something like water to flash cool the plastic or you run the risk of it cracking. Repeat this process along the length of the corner alternating between the hammer handle to achieve depth and the flat steel to get the angle right until it seats flush against the standoff on the frame like in the first photo. Doing this netted us about 3-4 1/2 more inches to spare between the tank and the driveshaft with the Dakota heat shield on the tank as added protection. Picture time. (We bent the fuel line to its needed position after setting the tank). Some may be hesitant to try this for fear of damaging the tank but if you are careful and take your time, it will come out fine. Or just put the XJ tank where the spare tire goes. Restoration is all about what works for you while keeping the integrity of the truck sound. If this isn't the direction you want to go in, that's okay! Speaking of sound integrity, after checking the fit, we sealed the spot with sealer first to insure there were no pinholes, then a piece of flat steel bent to match the angle sandwiched by two pieces of thick foam to prevent buckling and rubbing on the frame. Stay tuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanL Posted June 23, 2013 Author Share Posted June 23, 2013 Update time! We are four for four of the major problems of the 97+ swap! The wiring for the back of the truck is done! The taillight wiring needed to be extended, and the excess wiring eliminated. I chose to keep the XJ style taillights (one light is brakes, one blinker, and one reverse). On the Drivers side of the harness, the plugs for the back gate had to be eliminated. The rest was just running the wires to the back. Picture time, The wires from the cab (the plug must be taken off of the MJ harness, which destroys it, and the center hole elongated by drill bit. We used a lot of sealer to prevent leaks. Plug out of the cab. There are 3 different looms, one for each tail light, and one for the fuel sender. Ran the wires next to the hard lines, behind the tank down to the drivers side where the passenger side branches off to its side with a 90 degree turn like so. (The slack you see was taken out when we fastened it to the frame). Also, the steering column and headlight switch are in Note to self: if you are ever having problem with seating the column on all four bolts, remember that it is in fact a TILT column, and may need to be tilted to seat :doh: . Struggled with it for a long time before my stupid self realized that... The end is almost in sight! :yes: Stay tuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanL Posted June 24, 2013 Author Share Posted June 24, 2013 Got the back diff filled today. Also cracked open the front for the first time ever in its life I believe. Anyways less talk more pictures. Ready to be wire brushed All buttoned up and ready to go! Maybe a coat of paint first... I also got the door panels installed today More to come! Stay tuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted June 26, 2013 Share Posted June 26, 2013 Keep up the great work, your a little ahead of were I am doing the swap. I was (am) hoping the gas tank sender mods don't need to be that involved... I'm not concerned with it being just like a stock truck. I have a 95 Dakota tank & was hoping to us it and parts from the 98' XJ tank and stock 88' tank to make something work.... Thanks for the info about heating and bending the tank! I'll try that. I still have not seen exactlly what the clearance issue is with the frame/mounts? I was thinking of modifying the existing mounts/frame etc. as needed as that sort of work is easy for me. My Write-up is: Hayduke's Operation Comanche Repower - 88 To 98 Swap, if you have not yet seen it. I'll be following your posts! thanks. Donor look familiar? Mine was hit a little worse than yours! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanL Posted June 27, 2013 Author Share Posted June 27, 2013 Thank you for the compliments! I have read through your build and I have to say I really like that yellow! It is definitely going to turn heads! As for the sender, keep in mind that the gauge will not read correctly on some of the senders so be careful when mixing and matching parts. The tank will still fit without modification on our trucks, but it comes within a inch or so from the driveshaft from what I've seen on other builds. The whole reason for heating the tank was to give the driveshaft a little more wiggle room. The tank itself sits against the top pinch weld on the drivers side frame rail and the bracket on the bottom of the cab on the drivers side seen here: right where the frame rail meets the cab. This bracket was where it kicked the tank out close to the driveshaft. I honestly don't know why the engineers included the bracket or what their reasoning was when they designed the truck, and truthfully it may work fine if you alter the bracket, I figured sinking the tank corner would be easier than frame work. And I always cringe when I see cars with that much damage! I only had to source a passenger door, not a whole front cap! But we are both in this undertaking together and if you need any help on a particular problem we may have solved already, or maybe just a sounding board for ideas don't hesitate to ask! Best of luck to a swift and solid build! Ryan Keep up the great work, your a little ahead of were I am doing the swap. I was (am) hoping the gas tank sender mods don't need to be that involved... I'm not concerned with it being just like a stock truck. I have a 95 Dakota tank & was hoping to us it and parts from the 98' XJ tank and stock 88' tank to make something work.... Thanks for the info about heating and bending the tank! I'll try that. I still have not seen exactlly what the clearance issue is with the frame/mounts? I was thinking of modifying the existing mounts/frame etc. as needed as that sort of work is easy for me. My Write-up is: Hayduke's Operation Comanche Repower - 88 To 98 Swap, if you have not yet seen it. I'll be following your posts! thanks. Donor look familiar? Mine was hit a little worse than yours! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanL Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 Update time! Its been awhile since I've updated and a lot has got done! First I got the headliner recovered Before I trimmed it down to fit All glued up! Did the back drums Emergency brake cable routed And the trim pieces are painted! All that is left to paint is the bed and the tailgate, which are not really a priority at the moment. The real wrench in the plans (wrench, haha get it?) is the engine. I am driving it back and forth to college and need to have the 500 mile break in done before mid-august. That being said, the engine will most likely go in this next week give or take a few days for 4th of July weekend. Can't wait! More to come! Stay tuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanL Posted July 2, 2013 Author Share Posted July 2, 2013 Update time! While I was at my summer class today my father got the overhead console working! The console and associated wiring are from a 98 ZJ. The body module is also needed from a 96-98 ZJ to operate the diagnostics (fuel mpg, compass, etc.) with wires spliced into the CCD then the fuse box on the XJ to interpret the data. Picture time: (The temperature is not displayed because the ambient temperature sensor was not connected). The console, now that it is working, will soon be shortened and recovered to match the grey headliner. More to come tomorrow! Stay tuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Shaking my fist at you for finding a two door XJ door panel to get a switch cover. That little piece has been a tough find for over a year now for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanL Posted July 2, 2013 Author Share Posted July 2, 2013 Honestly, I never expected to see one up close in real life but my father took a trip to the PAP in Baton Rogue while I was up at college and there was a two door sitting there plain as could be! Talk about strokes of luck. I'm half expecting to get hit by lightning sometime in the near future.... Shaking my fist at you for finding a two door XJ door panel to get a switch cover. That little piece has been a tough find for over a year now for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 I've never even thought to look for that panel. Just not worried about having extra switches. Besides, then I can wire them up to control something super secret like a starter disable or rocket launcher! :laughin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now