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89' Resto To 99' Conversion


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Now there's an idea. "Rocket 'Manche" :rotf:

I've never even thought to look for that panel.  Just not worried about having extra switches.

Besides, then I can wire them up to control something super secret like a starter disable or rocket launcher!  :laughin:

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Update time!

 

Got the fender flares on! And loosely bolted on the bumper to check the fit!

 

 

 

 

Got the cowl and wipers all buttoned up.

 

 

And assembled the nose piece

 

 

Then put it on

 

 

(This has to be my favorite picture so far. It is starting to look like a truck again! :yes: )

 

More to come!

 

Stay tuned!

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Thank you for the compliments! I know you've been having a lot of problems with your painter and I hope they get resolved quickly! I can't wait to see your finished product, it's going to be a beast!

Man I am jealous ...you are getting dialed in and it looks great.
I can't wait till I am getting to where you are and bolt it all back up.
Looking awesome

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The engine is IN! :jump:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After a little more elbow grease and some more parts it should be fired up this Sunday! I can't wait!! :clapping:  :clapping:

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Update time!

 

Got most of the engine compartment done today! Only the brakes, air box, and accumulator dryer are left!

 

 

 

 

 

Front buttoned up for good!

 

 

Tomorrow the interior goes in and the key will turn! I can't wait!

 

Stay tuned!

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Well good and bad news.

 

Bad news is, the computer will not give power to the fuel pump to start the engine. The gauge cluster reads "NO BUS", which means somewhere along the line between the computer, gauge cluster and CCD BUS, there is a problem. After ohming out the wiring, it brought it down to the gauge cluster or the computer. Hopefully the problem can be rectified soon to start the truck.

 

The silver lining here is that the truck (minus a few parts) is generally put back together.

 

The engine is done save for the accumulator dryer (to be installed when the system can be charged)

 

 

And the dash is all in except for the radio, which is waiting on the adapter harness

 

 

The back steering wheel trim piece is off too because the steering wheel may need to come off in the future, and is not tightened down.

 

 

 

There's life in her yet, just need to iron out a few last wrinkles and it will be time to start!

 

More to come!

 

Stay tuned!

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You might want to check out this TSB.  I really doubt you need a PCM or cluster. 

 

Instead of wiring on the new pigtail, you can also clean the old connector with electrical contact cleaner and then take it out of it's holder and place it on the other side of the plastic, making it go further into the cluster when you screw it down, works very well too, if that indeed is the problem.

 

 

 

NO: 08-15-99
SUBJECT: Erratic, Intermittent Cluster Operation/Intermittent Air Bag Warning light.
DATE: May 21, 1999
THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN NUMBER 08-20-98 REV. A, DATED OCTOBER 2, 1998, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES AND NOTED IN THE BOUND TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN BOOK, PUBLICATION NUMBER 81-699-99003. THIS IS A COMPLETE REVISION TO THE PROCEDURE.

OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves installing a repair harness containing a revised instrument cluster connector.

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Some vehicles may exhibit an intermittent illumination of the air bag warning light or an intermittent tachometer or speedometer drop out. An Airbagicon1.png Electronic Control Module (AECM) fault code -"No Cluster CCD BUS " message will be present.

DIAGNOSIS:
Using the DRB III?, read and record all active and stored fault codes in the AECM. This condition is caused by minor oxidation of the BUS circuit terminals at the instrument cluster connector. Electrical terminals will show signs of oxidation, which will appear as darkened lines or marks on the cluster male terminals. These often appear as gray or black marks rather than the appearance of oxidation or corrosion usually associated with higher current carrying circuits. This condition will set a "NO CLUSTER CCD BUS" message. The fault code will usually be stored and not active. THIS TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN WILL NOT ADDRESS FUELicon1.png OR OIL PRESSURE GAUGE ISSUES. If this fault code is present, either active or stored perform the Repair Procedure.

PARTS REQUIRED:
Qty Part No. Description
1 05016261AA Cluster Connector Patch Harness
1 04856975 Electric Contact Cleaner
2 04778570 Heat Shrink Tubing


REPAIR PROCEDURE:
THIS REPAIR IS COMPATIBLE WITH DAIMLERCHRYSLER'S MOBILE SERVICE PROGRAM AND DOES NOT REQUIRE HOISTS OR OTHER FULL SERVICE FACILITY SPECIAL EQUIPMENT.


Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the instrument cluster using the procedures outlined in the appropriate servicemanual.
Inspect the male terminals of pins 1 & 2 on the instrument cluster connector labeled CNB (See Figure 1). The oxidation will appear as gray or black lines or marks on the terminals. If any signs of oxidation are present, remove them by gently scraping the terminals with a small flat bladed screw driver until the oxidation is gone. Use of a magnifying glass may be helpful (See Figure 2). Use caution when performing this operation. Do not apply excessive force to the terminals to avoid bending them or damaging the cluster or terminals. Do not use a sharp tool, knife or sand paper, which could remove the protective plating from the terminals. Do not use any cleaner other than p/n 04856975. Other chemical cleaners could damage the instrument cluster.
Clean the male terminals with Electrical Contact cleaner, p/n 04856975. Apply the cleaner sparingly holding the cluster with the connector facing down to avoid excessive amount of cleaner from entering the cluster.
Remove the green cluster connector from the bracket.
Using wire cutters, remove the instrument cluster harness connector from the harness. Remove only the connector containing the BUS circuit (See Figure 1). This connector is labeled CBA on the cluster. Cut the wires as close to the insulator as possible.
The new connector must be soldered onto the harness. This operation requires a technician who is skilled at soldering to avoid a cold solder joint. Position the harness and align the wires with the patch harness, matching the color codesicon1.png match the main wire colors.
NOTE: THE XJ INSTRUMENT PANEL CONTAINS ONE MORE CIRCUIT IN THIS CONNECTOR THAN THE TJ. CUT THE UNUSED WIRE CLOSE TO THE CONNECTOR ON TJ MODELS.

Stagger cut the main harness and patch harness wires so that the solder joints will be 1/2 inch apart. Remove 1/2 inch of insulation from the wires. The new harness will have a dark blue with no tracer. This will mate with a dark blue wire with a green tracer on TJ and with a dark blue wire with a white tracer on XJ.
Slide a piece of heat shrink tubing over the wires and twist the wires together for each respective circuit.
Solder each circuit using rosin core solder. Be sure to heat the wire enough to allow the solder to melt when it comes in contact with wire. Do not use acid core solder.
Position the heat shrink tubing over the solder joints and shrink the tubing using a heat gun.
Install the connector to the bracket.
Install the instrument cluster.
Connect the battery cable.
Verify correct operation of the cluster.
 

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After compiling research, my father and I both performed tests on the cluster, TCU, wiring, and all sensors that feed the CCD bus and after comparing results came to the conclusion that, like you say, it is either a bad female connector (C1 contains the bus but C2 can contribute the error code we have), or an open ground on the dash harness. The cluster was checked using the actuator test, the sensors by unplugging each one and seeing if the error code would go away, and the wiring using the pinouts for the plugs in the TCU and sensors to the PCM.

 

If that gets us nowhere, our next option would probably be to test the resistors in the PCM (simple multimeter test). If all else fails track down a DRBIII tool or send it to the dealership.

 

 

 

 

You might want to check out this TSB.  I really doubt you need a PCM or cluster. 

 

Instead of wiring on the new pigtail, you can also clean the old connector with electrical contact cleaner and then take it out of it's holder and place it on the other side of the plastic, making it go further into the cluster when you screw it down, works very well too, if that indeed is the problem.

 

We cleaned the contact points of oxidation on the cluster, and tried to tweak the pins a little to connect better in the plug but no such luck. If the voltage tests return negative then a new connector would be the next option.

 

NO: 08-15-99
SUBJECT: Erratic, Intermittent Cluster Operation/Intermittent Air Bag Warning light.
DATE: May 21, 1999
THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN NUMBER 08-20-98 REV. A, DATED OCTOBER 2, 1998, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES AND NOTED IN THE BOUND TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN BOOK, PUBLICATION NUMBER 81-699-99003. THIS IS A COMPLETE REVISION TO THE PROCEDURE.

OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves installing a repair harness containing a revised instrument cluster connector.

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Some vehicles may exhibit an intermittent illumination of the air bag warning light or an intermittent tachometer or speedometer drop out. An Airbagicon1.png Electronic Control Module (AECM) fault code -"No Cluster CCD BUS " message will be present.

DIAGNOSIS:
Using the DRB III?, read and record all active and stored fault codes in the AECM. This condition is caused by minor oxidation of the BUS circuit terminals at the instrument cluster connector. Electrical terminals will show signs of oxidation, which will appear as darkened lines or marks on the cluster male terminals. These often appear as gray or black marks rather than the appearance of oxidation or corrosion usually associated with higher current carrying circuits. This condition will set a "NO CLUSTER CCD BUS" message. The fault code will usually be stored and not active. THIS TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN WILL NOT ADDRESS FUELicon1.png OR OIL PRESSURE GAUGE ISSUES. If this fault code is present, either active or stored perform the Repair Procedure.

PARTS REQUIRED:
Qty Part No. Description
1 05016261AA Cluster Connector Patch Harness
1 04856975 Electric Contact Cleaner
2 04778570 Heat Shrink Tubing


REPAIR PROCEDURE:
THIS REPAIR IS COMPATIBLE WITH DAIMLERCHRYSLER'S MOBILE SERVICE PROGRAM AND DOES NOT REQUIRE HOISTS OR OTHER FULL SERVICE FACILITY SPECIAL EQUIPMENT.


Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the instrument cluster using the procedures outlined in the appropriate servicemanual.
Inspect the male terminals of pins 1 & 2 on the instrument cluster connector labeled CNB (See Figure 1). The oxidation will appear as gray or black lines or marks on the terminals. If any signs of oxidation are present, remove them by gently scraping the terminals with a small flat bladed screw driver until the oxidation is gone. Use of a magnifying glass may be helpful (See Figure 2). Use caution when performing this operation. Do not apply excessive force to the terminals to avoid bending them or damaging the cluster or terminals. Do not use a sharp tool, knife or sand paper, which could remove the protective plating from the terminals. Do not use any cleaner other than p/n 04856975. Other chemical cleaners could damage the instrument cluster.
Clean the male terminals with Electrical Contact cleaner, p/n 04856975. Apply the cleaner sparingly holding the cluster with the connector facing down to avoid excessive amount of cleaner from entering the cluster.
Remove the green cluster connector from the bracket.
Using wire cutters, remove the instrument cluster harness connector from the harness. Remove only the connector containing the BUS circuit (See Figure 1). This connector is labeled CBA on the cluster. Cut the wires as close to the insulator as possible.
The new connector must be soldered onto the harness. This operation requires a technician who is skilled at soldering to avoid a cold solder joint. Position the harness and align the wires with the patch harness, matching the color codesicon1.png match the main wire colors.
NOTE: THE XJ INSTRUMENT PANEL CONTAINS ONE MORE CIRCUIT IN THIS CONNECTOR THAN THE TJ. CUT THE UNUSED WIRE CLOSE TO THE CONNECTOR ON TJ MODELS.

Stagger cut the main harness and patch harness wires so that the solder joints will be 1/2 inch apart. Remove 1/2 inch of insulation from the wires. The new harness will have a dark blue with no tracer. This will mate with a dark blue wire with a green tracer on TJ and with a dark blue wire with a white tracer on XJ.
Slide a piece of heat shrink tubing over the wires and twist the wires together for each respective circuit.
Solder each circuit using rosin core solder. Be sure to heat the wire enough to allow the solder to melt when it comes in contact with wire. Do not use acid core solder.
Position the heat shrink tubing over the solder joints and shrink the tubing using a heat gun.
Install the connector to the bracket.
Install the instrument cluster.
Connect the battery cable.
Verify correct operation of the cluster.
 

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The PCM doesn't need the cluster to start but it does need the bus. Try unplugging the cluster and see if it starts. If it does, it probably has to do with the connector mentioned in the tsb.

 

I'm not sure what sensors you're unplugging but that doesn't have to do anything with the bus.  It usually is a bad module or something tapped into it that doesn't belong on it.  If unplugging the cluster doesn't bring the bus up, the second thing I would unplug is that overhead module and BCM you spliced into it (I actually forgot that you did that and this would actually be the first thing I would unplug myself).  And from there, every other module, ony by one, until the bus comes up.

 

A DRB won't help you diagnose a bus issue.  It will only tell you the bus is indeed shorted or open but you can check that with your multimeter right at the diagnostic connector (backprobe them though, those pins will spread if you jamb your test leads in there).  Of course, you can also just look at the cluster and see if the "no bus" goes away or try to start it each time you unplug a module.

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The over head module and BCM was the first thing we tried because that was the only thing we changed on the harness. And the car will start, we discussed and agreed not to start it until we have gauges being that it will be the first start up on a rebuilt engine and if something goes wrong, the gauges could be the only warning in some cases.

 

And the sensors I was talking about were all of the 5 volt modules that feed the bus. We tried unplugging them one by one like you say with no results.

 

We did the multimeter check after trying the sensors one by one and the voltage at the diagnostic connector was normal (between 2.41-2.5 volts on pins 3 to 4 or 5 and pin 11 to 4 or 5).

 

I guess my question is how can we unplug the cluster and know if the bus comes up before we start it to see?

The PCM doesn't need the cluster to start but it does need the bus. Try unplugging the cluster and see if it starts. If it does, it probably has to do with the connector mentioned in the tsb.

 

I'm not sure what sensors you're unplugging but that doesn't have to do anything with the bus.  It usually is a bad module or something tapped into it that doesn't belong on it.  If unplugging the cluster doesn't bring the bus up, the second thing I would unplug is that overhead module and BCM you spliced into it (I actually forgot that you did that and this would actually be the first thing I would unplug myself).  And from there, every other module, ony by one, until the bus comes up.

 

A DRB won't help you diagnose a bus issue.  It will only tell you the bus is indeed shorted or open but you can check that with your multimeter right at the diagnostic connector (backprobe them though, those pins will spread if you jamb your test leads in there).  Of course, you can also just look at the cluster and see if the "no bus" goes away or try to start it each time you unplug a module.

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As Ryan says, we unplugged the "new" BCM first, but during it's initial install I did not cut into the XJ harness, I found that the CCD bus wires (+ and -) actually already appear in the XJ overhead harness plug under the A/C box. Its a simple plug-and-play because the female plug from the ZJ harness is a match to the male plug already on the XJ side - except for the position of the CCD bus wires. (which were re-positioned correctly). Even so, its unplugged now. Even though we did not molest the harnesses for the engine or dash we did check and find good continuity between the cluster harness and the PCM, and the PCM and the CPS, so I suspect the wiring is good.

 

We disconnected all the 5 volt sensors (CPS, MAP, IAC, TEMP, MAT, O2 #1 and #2, fuel sender, oil press sender, AECM...did we forget any?), but were still getting the 'no BuS' indication. After all grounds (except behind the dash) were checked and tightened,  the key is turned to run (but not start) and the following happens:

 

cluster displays initial warning light sequences

electric (cooling) fan runs continuously

ASD relay was chattering continuously (but changing that relay stopped the chattering)

Fuel pump runs continuously

 

Although we do have the correct voltages (on the correct pins) at the DLC the OBDII reader powers up but cannot connect for communication.....which makes me suspect one of the following:

 

Ground short

Defective PCM

 

We will be pulling the cluster (and possibly the entire dash) tonight to check the behind-the-dash grounds and ensure correct voltage at the cluster connectors. Any other ideas/suggestions/comments are absolutely welcome.

 

 

The over head module and BCM was the first thing we tried because that was the only thing we changed on the harness. And the car will start, we discussed and agreed not to start it until we have gauges being that it will be the first start up on a rebuilt engine and if something goes wrong, the gauges could be the only warning in some cases.

 

And the sensors I was talking about were all of the 5 volt modules that feed the bus. We tried unplugging them one by one like you say with no results.

 

We did the multimeter check after trying the sensors one by one and the voltage at the diagnostic connector was normal (between 2.41-2.5 volts on pins 3 to 4 or 5 and pin 11 to 4 or 5).

 

I guess my question is how can we unplug the cluster and know if the bus comes up before we start it to see?

The PCM doesn't need the cluster to start but it does need the bus. Try unplugging the cluster and see if it starts. If it does, it probably has to do with the connector mentioned in the tsb.

 

I'm not sure what sensors you're unplugging but that doesn't have to do anything with the bus.  It usually is a bad module or something tapped into it that doesn't belong on it.  If unplugging the cluster doesn't bring the bus up, the second thing I would unplug is that overhead module and BCM you spliced into it (I actually forgot that you did that and this would actually be the first thing I would unplug myself).  And from there, every other module, ony by one, until the bus comes up.

 

A DRB won't help you diagnose a bus issue.  It will only tell you the bus is indeed shorted or open but you can check that with your multimeter right at the diagnostic connector (backprobe them though, those pins will spread if you jamb your test leads in there).  Of course, you can also just look at the cluster and see if the "no bus" goes away or try to start it each time you unplug a module.

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The 5 volt reference that comes out of the PCM for your sensors has nothing to do with your bus.  If that particular 5 volts is shorted to ground, it can certainly bring down the PCM to a "no response" condition but you would have bus communication to all modules except the PCM itself and no way would your engine start.

 

Your bus voltage is right.  Modules can corrupt the bus and is the most common bus problem or a bad connection on the module itself.  If the car has SKIM (thick key), the bus is definitely up or the engine wouldn't start without an okay message from the SKIM module over the bus.  If it is not equipped with SKIM, it would start even with a corrupted bus. 

 

I really think the bus is indeed up but the connector mentioned has a bad connection and so the cluster thinks there's a bus issue.  I would pop the connector out of the dash ( I believe the left one has the bus wires) and plug it directly into the cluster and wiggle it around and put pressure on it while monitoring the gauges.  The fuel level is a bussed message from the PCM so you should see it go up with key on engine off if this is indeed the problem.  Your tach is obviously bussed also so if you do feel safe enough to start it, you should have peace of mind that if it has a tach signal, the bus is good and all idiot lights and gauges will work if a problem arises.

 

If that is not the problem, you could start unplugging each module while monitoring bus voltage.  Well, wait....your bus voltage is good so I'm almost certain the problem is the cluster connector.

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After pouring over the research on my lunch break, I found a thread that had been posted on Cherokee Forum, in which a guy had opened up his cluster after doing all the tests we have talked about, and it was burned by the odometer. He replaced it and it solved his problem. To add insult to injury, the Ohm resistance from the DLC to the cluster is supposed to read 120 ohms. With the cluster plugged in it reads 60, unplugged it reads 120. With the truck "passing" all other tests (continuity, modules, etc.) this leads the most likely culprit to be the cluster.

 

More to scratch an itch that anything I opened my cluster up. Lo and behold we have a burn spot in the exact spot his was in:

 

 

A new(ish) cluster has been ordered, as well as new connectors from the dealership as you recommend. I figure if I'm going to get new pins I might as well cut the option of the connectors being bad out of the equation at the same time and replace both at once.

 

If this doesn't work then it leaves the PCM. Because, correct me if I am wrong but with all modules that interact with the bus (Air bag, overhead module, sentry key, TCU, and DLC) are disconnected or check out with the appropriate tests, the only things left connected are the cluster and PCM. Either the PCM is sending the data and the connectors or cluster are not receiving it, or the PCM never sent it in the first place.
 

 

The 5 volt reference that comes out of the PCM for your sensors has nothing to do with your bus.  If that particular 5 volts is shorted to ground, it can certainly bring down the PCM to a "no response" condition but you would have bus communication to all modules except the PCM itself and no way would your engine start.

 

Your bus voltage is right.  Modules can corrupt the bus and is the most common bus problem or a bad connection on the module itself.  If the car has SKIM (thick key), the bus is definitely up or the engine wouldn't start without an okay message from the SKIM module over the bus.  If it is not equipped with SKIM, it would start even with a corrupted bus. 

 

I really think the bus is indeed up but the connector mentioned has a bad connection and so the cluster thinks there's a bus issue.  I would pop the connector out of the dash ( I believe the left one has the bus wires) and plug it directly into the cluster and wiggle it around and put pressure on it while monitoring the gauges.  The fuel level is a bussed message from the PCM so you should see it go up with key on engine off if this is indeed the problem.  Your tach is obviously bussed also so if you do feel safe enough to start it, you should have peace of mind that if it has a tach signal, the bus is good and all idiot lights and gauges will work if a problem arises.

 

If that is not the problem, you could start unplugging each module while monitoring bus voltage.  Well, wait....your bus voltage is good so I'm almost certain the problem is the cluster connector.

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I certainly hope so! 150+ bones and a dealership visit for a flash would not be fun...

 

However, I do want to thank you for your help and swift replies! Solving a problem is ten times as easy with help and different outlooks and I appreciate it! Even though the problem has not been rectified yet (just waiting on parts now) fingers crossed!

I promise you, it's not the PCM.

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I was talking with a good buddy about your problem and he agrees that it sounds like the cluster as well but he did tell me that once, he did have a Jeep that the engine ran with "no bus" and it did turn out to be the PCM.  He said that was maybe one out of a hundred that had that problem but almost all of them were the cluster connectors and/or cluster.

 

Personally, the only problem I've ever seen is the cluster and connectors and I've probably seen this problem about 100 times as well.  Probability wise, money is still on the cluster so it's definitely a good next step.  I learn something new everyday.  Let us know how it turns out.

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Well with the new connectors and the first of the new to us clusters that were ordered, we still got "no bus". We tested the voltages to all of the 5 volt sensors and came out with the correct voltages on all except for the CPS. It had 12 volts at the connector. According to the wiring diagrams, it has a five volt input from the PCM. However, the power wire for this sensor is also connected to the ASD circuit, which runs the cooling fan which has inexplicably (until now) been running constantly with the key on RUN. This leads us to believe there is a short on the orange wire on the circuit, giving 12 volts to the CPS, fooling the cooling fan into running on its fail safe, and contributing to the no bus. Either that or the PCM is indeed bad. We are going to run the tests again to be sure it wasn't just a faulty reading, and see where we go from there.

 

Another interesting note is that the cluster we got from the LKQ that arrived first, had a blinker bulb that will not go out (the left blinker flasher was illuminated all the time), and the first cluster has a burn mark. It could also be that both of the clusters are bad, but that will have to wait until the other clusters arrive. With both clusters we still get 60 ohms at the DLC plugged in and 120 ohms unplugged so its anybody's guess until the new ones arrive.

 

 

 

I was talking with a good buddy about your problem and he agrees that it sounds like the cluster as well but he did tell me that once, he did have a Jeep that the engine ran with "no bus" and it did turn out to be the PCM.  He said that was maybe one out of a hundred that had that problem but almost all of them were the cluster connectors and/or cluster.

 

Personally, the only problem I've ever seen is the cluster and connectors and I've probably seen this problem about 100 times as well.  Probability wise, money is still on the cluster so it's definitely a good next step.  I learn something new everyday.  Let us know how it turns out.

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Okay so the tests went fine and returned all the expected voltages. Also a closer look at the wiring diagrams revealed that the circuit the orange wire is on goes to all the sensors and since the others returned 5 volts, we re-preformed the CPS voltage test and it came back 5 volts.

 

With ALL sensors and modules unplugged, the only things left on the BUS circuit are the cluster, PCM, and the wiring in between. This means either the PCM is bad, or the TWO clusters we have are bad. Not so far out of reach but still sketchy for sure. With the burn mark on the first and the illuminated blinker flasher on the second I'm not counting my chickens just yet.

 

If the last cluster arrives and checks out and still gives us NO BUS that leaves the PCM because the continuity tests for all CCD bus wires check out.

 

More updates to come.

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Updates are here!

 

The console is in (after much finagling and turning the modules this way and that)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh and THE TRUCK RUNS

 

 

:jump:

 

Soon gents, soon it will be road worthy! Stick with it because progress is going to pick up speed these next couple of weeks!

 

Definitely more to come!

 

Stay tuned!

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