jeepmon Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 Will 97 to 01 regular cherokee doors bolt onto a 92 comanche Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relyt120 Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 They will bolt on but you must change the door striker on the cab, check one of the 97+ build threads for how Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 I've checked but never really seen this explained well. One guy started to do it, the just took it to the bodyshop :dunno: I don't know how you figure the location and line-up. I think once thats established I'd be tempted to mig weld it in place. Not the best plan but from what I've seen the B pillar is really tight inside and hard to access?? I plan to to put 98' Cherro doors on my 88' MJ if I can figure out the striker issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepmon Posted April 21, 2013 Author Share Posted April 21, 2013 does anyone have a good way to change the striker and get it mounted in the right location please help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 The top bolt for the 1997+ XJ striker will bolt through the existing hole on the MJ. Get the striker adjusted with the existing adjustment plate then mark and drill the bottom hole. There is plenty of access room to the inside of the B pillar once the interior panel is removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyc Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Yeah, you just have to mount the door, then eyeball where the striker needs to be. You can use a Sharpie to mark the spot. And when you take the interior b-pillar panel off, there is plenty of room to reach in there to get a nut on the backside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinkrun Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Good place as any to hijack a thread I need a rust free hood and may have a free one on a 2000 Cherokee anyone know if they are the same as pre 97 hood like our trucks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Good place as any to hijack a thread I need a rust free hood and may have a free one on a 2000 Cherokee anyone know if they are the same as pre 97 hood like our trucks?Nearly identical except for some additional spots for placing the hood prop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Yeah, you just have to mount the door, then eyeball where the striker needs to be. You can use a Sharpie to mark the spot. And when you take the interior b-pillar panel off, there is plenty of room to reach in there to get a nut on the backside. x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Any other hijack, Ive heard you can pull out the little smokers windows and use the whole door glass from a 98+ and it will work? Anyone ever heard of this or tried it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relyt120 Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Any other hijack, Ive heard you can pull out the little smokers windows and use the whole door glass from a 98+ and it will work? Anyone ever heard of this or tried it? I was wondering the same thing :popcorn: If it is possible you probably would have to pull the entire regulator and tracks from the XJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Any other hijack, Ive heard you can pull out the little smokers windows and use the whole door glass from a 98+ and it will work? Anyone ever heard of this or tried it? I was wondering the same thing :popcorn: If it is possible you probably would have to pull the entire regulator and tracks from the XJ I'm not sure how the window cranks work with a manual window.. But mine are crappy I wouldnt mind changing them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earl*t Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 The door on the left is from a Comanche, the right is from a Cherokee. It would require ingenuity to pull off swapping the window mechanisms. The stamped panels are recessed at the mounting points and would necessitate the use of spacers. The Cherokee doors have a reinforcing rib inside the door affixed to the outer skin making them superior is structural integrity. IMHO it is far simpler to swap the entire door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 I agree with you that the reinforcing rib makes them superior but IMHO having 96- dash with 97+ doors, would look something fugly like Jocelyn Wildenstein. :eek: Unless you could mount the old door panel on the new door. Which I think would also be too much work than its worth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomguy310 Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 when you put 97+ doors on how do you wire all the electrics up? idk if there was a trick or just put power to them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 when you put 97+ doors on how do you wire all the electrics up? idk if there was a trick or just put power to themI had to create an entire custom harness to wire them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relyt120 Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 when you put 97+ doors on how do you wire all the electrics up? idk if there was a trick or just put power to themI had to create an entire custom harness to wire them. Alexia, on the harness you created what gauge of wire did you use?? I'm about to buy an 18 roll assortment of differently colored wires for some future projects and want to be sure to get the correct gauge for this application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 when you put 97+ doors on how do you wire all the electrics up? idk if there was a trick or just put power to themI had to create an entire custom harness to wire them. Alexia, on the harness you created what gauge of wire did you use?? I'm about to buy an 18 roll assortment of differently colored wires for some future projects and want to be sure to get the correct gauge for this application. The wires range from 12 to 20 gauge. The power window feeds require 14 gauge. However, this is based on the Cherokee where all those wires have to run out the driver's door, back behind the rear seats, and back up to the passenger door. I would still recommend using 14 gauge wire since while I found that wire 16 gauge is sufficient for the shorter distance in a Comanche cab some older window motors as they wear out start pulling more amperage thus requiring 14 gauge. It also helps to prevent slow windows. The power mirrors use 20 gauge wire. The main ground and power wires are 12 gauge. Power door locks are inconsistent using both 16 and 18 gauge wire. I did not have any 18 gauge wire so I just used 16 gauge everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mjgilley Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 i just did it to my mj the strikers were easy as can be i then wired the doors up by there selves seems how it was pointless to have them both controlled from the drivers side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 i then wired the doors up by there selves seems how it was pointless to have them both controlled from the drivers side Pointless to control both windows from the drivers side? It only takes one additional switch and three additional wires cross body to control both windows from the drivers side. "wired the doors up by there selves" - that's pointless mate. Nice pro-looking harness Alex. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 i then wired the doors up by there selves seems how it was pointless to have them both controlled from the drivers side Pointless to control both windows from the drivers side? It only takes one additional switch and three additional wires cross body to control both windows from the drivers side. "wired the doors up by there selves" - that's pointless mate. Nice pro-looking harness Alex. :cheers: Thanks! Though I never took pictures of it all wrapped up in wire loom and properly taped off though! As for swapping the windows it might be possible to swap the bolt in window tracks. You would really need both doors next to each other to swap some parts around to see how it would work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Wow do you know your wire sizes after that project! Thanks for the door striker info, now I'm eager to try it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Back to Door Strikers, I haven't done mine yet, but It appears Alexia Did have to move his inboard some. Check this out: http://comancheclub.com/topic/32740-alexias-1987-to-1997-comanche/page-13 I wish I knew how far in and which hole was used. Might save me from drilling a bigger hole for more adjustment.... let me know if you get to your door swap first! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Back to Door Strikers, I haven't done mine yet, but It appears Alexia Did have to move his inboard some. Check this out: http://comancheclub.com/topic/32740-alexias-1987-to-1997-comanche/page-13 I wish I knew how far in and which hole was used. Might save me from drilling a bigger hole for more adjustment.... let me know if you get to your door swap first! My strikers lined up in nearly the exact spot on each side. The top hole aligns with the horizontal center of the large hole for the original MJ striker. I needed the washer welded in place to close up the one side of the hole I drilled and cover up the giant hole in general. The bottom hole for the new striker is drilled after adjusting the door closing position based on the top hole. The other way I marked the position for the striker was to put the striker in the door latch, put wet paint on the top and bottom edges, and then close the door carefully. The paint smears on the metal to roughly show where it needs to sit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 It appears you had to drill the top hole just to the right of the existing hole (next to the washer). Was this the case? I like the paint idea as well. Better looking welds too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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