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Which Sealant To Use.


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Hello

 

I just about got everything together to replace my rear main seal, water pump, thermostat, and radiator. The guy at Napa said to use Permatex Ultra Black for the oil pan, thermostat, and the water pump. For some reason it just doesn't seem right to me. The package says rtv silicone gasket maker. What do you think?

 

I also remember seeing a post somewhere about the thermostat having a ball bearing in it and making sure that it was to the top. But the thermostat I got from Napa does not have it. Am I correct in this, and if I am, do I need it or can I use the one I bought without the bearing.

 

It's an 88 4.0 4x4. Also I got the one piece felt pro oil pan gasket. Does it use sealant? Because when I did the valve cover gasket, I didn't use any sealant, and this gasket looks just like it.

 

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Ultra black is an RTV. I usually use the red or blue stuff. Thermostat should come with a gasket in which case RTV is not needed. No RTV on single piece oil pan gasket, anaerobic sealant for the rear main seal.

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Ultra black is an RTV. I usually use the red or blue stuff. Thermostat should come with a gasket in which case RTV is not needed. No RTV on single piece oil pan gasket, anaerobic sealant for the rear main seal.

:agree: to add to his comment, I have had great success using Loctite 518 on the rear main seal, but I've always used the Ultra Black for the water pump, timing chain cover, and thermostat housing (if no gasket is available).

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Thanks for the responses.

 

Can I use it on the rms and if I can only on the tabs correct?

 

What about the little ball bearing in the thermostat. Was I correct in this?

 

I have an additional question. I also bought an oil pump since I have such high mileage and was going to have access to the pump I figured I'd change it. But the instructions say to prime it using a priming tool. Can anybody tell me the procedure for priming the pump?

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Is the oil pump the factor replacement? If you don't have a lift on your truck and plan on not removing the front axle you will have to remove the pump to get the pan out. I reused the old pump (did not have the cash for a new one or i would have replaced) did not have to do anything in the way of priming. I know this is not a direct answer but you could just call the manufacture and check with them to make sure.

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I just seem to remember from my high school shop days that you had to remove the distributor and insert a screwdriver looking thing. Then you hooked it up to a drill for about a minute and we were told now the pump is primed.

 

Did you use sealant on your rms?

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RTV has many good applications ,,,,BUT , Oil , Gas or any other hydro-carbon will de-grade ( reverse the curing ) . Mfr.s blend carbon (ultra black ) , iron oxide / copper (hi-temp gasket maker) & or arsenic ( bath-tub antifungal sealant ) to overcome / minimize inheirant weakness's in RTV Silicone sealants . :smart:    RTV =Room Temperature Vulcanizing ......   

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RTV has many good applications ,,,,BUT , Oil , Gas or any other hydro-carbon will de-grade ( reverse the curing ) . Mfr.s blend carbon (ultra black ) , iron oxide / copper (hi-temp gasket maker) & or arsenic ( bath-tub antifungal sealant ) to overcome / minimize inheirant weakness's in RTV Silicone sealants . :smart:    RTV =Room Temperature Vulcanizing ......   

 

That is why anaerobic sealant on the tabs of the RMS.

 

As for the thermostat, mine doesn't have a ball bearing either. Just a little hole in the outer ring. Can't remember if the hole is supposed to be on top or bottom, but I want to say top.

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Hole in thermostat goes to the top - it is designed to allow air trapped in the block to escape back into the coolant bottle...but you still need to elevate the rear of the truck and bleed the air out via the temp sender at the back of the block.

 

The diagram in the FSM shows the anaerobic sealant just in front of the tabs - on the outside edge from the bolt hole to the edge of the tab on the rear main seal. Here:

 

 

Priming the oil pump can be done in several ways. If I take it out, I carefully and completely pack it with vasoline, then reinstall. The vasoline causes suction to quickly build and primes the pump on first start. If I don't remove it I take the shaft of a cut-off screwdriver (about 16 inches long with handle cut off) mount it in a 1/2 drill. Remove the distributor and insert the screwdriver into the oil pump slot. Spin it Clockwise for about 5 to 10 minutes, then replace dist. and start.

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RTV has many good applications ,,,,BUT , Oil , Gas or any other hydro-carbon will de-grade ( reverse the curing ) . Mfr.s blend carbon (ultra black ) , iron oxide / copper (hi-temp gasket maker) & or arsenic ( bath-tub antifungal sealant ) to overcome / minimize inheirant weakness's in RTV Silicone sealants . :smart: RTV =Room Temperature Vulcanizing ......

this ^^. they are all the same basically no matter the color (RTV). The small difference is the additives. the red is useless and most likely to leak. Hence why we call it redneck sealant. You can be sure most any repair with red sealant oozing out everywhere was done by a toothless redneck who couldnt fix a sandwich. (though toyotas trans pan gasket maker is reddish and ive used it)

blue, i don't see a point. The only 2 i use are the black and grey.

Reason being they are what get me by when i don't have hondabond (grey) or toyota FIPG (black).

Those are the 2 best silicone type gasket sealants i have ever come acrossed and i keep them on hand at all times.

I mainly use them on valve cover gaskets in just the needed spots, and water pumps and T stat housings.

For most other stuff i use Kuril T, loctite 518, gasgacinch, yamabond, and on vintage builds where many pics will be taken and every single aspect is important, permatex indian head. :)

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RTV has many good applications ,,,,BUT , Oil , Gas or any other hydro-carbon will de-grade ( reverse the curing ) . Mfr.s blend carbon (ultra black ) , iron oxide / copper (hi-temp gasket maker) & or arsenic ( bath-tub antifungal sealant ) to overcome / minimize inheirant weakness's in RTV Silicone sealants . :smart: RTV =Room Temperature Vulcanizing ......

this ^^. they are all the same basically no matter the color (RTV). The small difference is the additives. the red is useless and most likely to leak. Hence why we call it redneck sealant. You can be sure most any repair with red sealant oozing out everywhere was done by a toothless redneck who couldnt fix a sandwich. (though toyotas trans pan gasket maker is reddish and ive used it)

blue, i don't see a point. The only 2 i use are the black and grey.

Reason being they are what get me by when i don't have hondabond (grey) or toyota FIPG (black).

Those are the 2 best silicone type gasket sealants i have ever come acrossed and i keep them on hand at all times.

I mainly use them on valve cover gaskets in just the needed spots, and water pumps and T stat housings.

For most other stuff i use Kuril T, loctite 518, gasgacinch, yamabond, and on vintage builds where many pics will be taken and every single aspect is important, permatex indian head. :)

FWIW   There are only 3 companies that actually manufacture RTV Silicone Sealants (Patent Laws ) GE ,Dow-Corning & Rhone -Poulenc any other brand you find is actually made by one of these three ( GE  & Dow-Corning in North America ,,, RP Rhodosil for the rest of the world ) Private brands are a big part of the business for all 3 but there are no "special formulations " The RTV's used for Aviation/military applications are a whole other world ( and cost the world ! )  EG. Jet fuel tank gasket/adhesive  $ 250 ( Semco 6oz cartridge ).......Your two favorite RTV's are made by R-P Rhodosil  :thumbsup:       :cheers:

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NICE!!!  yeah toyota FIPG is other worldly. It literally gets into the pores of your skin. Not like any other sealant. If you get it under your fingernails/in your cuticle..omg... it SUCKS. i wear latex gloves to apply FIPG. Its just great stuff. Not rolly polly like regular permatex run of the mill stuff. 

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Thank you everyone.

 

It looks like ultra black for the water pump, thermostat, and Loctite for the RMS. I may go to the dealer for the thermostat because the one I got from napa does not have the hole.

 

Next I need to collect a few more funds to get a two core radiator and I'll be set.

 

Thanks again

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