codymanche Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Looking for some one who's done this conversion or any ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Chief Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 5 posts... lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codymanche Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 i looked and seems be the only option is to take it out and plug I'm trying to use mine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 The thread size/pitch of the pipe you are talking about is extremely hard to find, believe me i searched. I just ended up cutting it off, folding it over two times, smashing it good and flat, and putting it back in. I really wouldnt worry about reusing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 I second the impossible threads. its metric pipe or????? nothing at any parts store matched, nothing at fergisuns, nothing at fastenal, and nothing at dealer. I made brass plugs and sealed both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 OP...if your Jeep is registered in CA, you'd be very lucky to pass smog with no EGR, since it's an integral part of the inspection/functionality testing. If in AZ...I dunno. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codymanche Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 No smog in az but I need smog to go to work on base Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 I might be mistaken but I thought it was NPT threads. Whatever thread it is, its readily available. Take it down to a Grainger store or look in the Grainger or McMaster/Carr catalogs or websites. Or, any decent machine shop could weld a properly threaded bung on to the header for you and not blow your wallet up. $20-40 bucks probably. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 I might be mistaken but I thought it was NPT threads. Whatever thread it is, its readily available. Take it down to a Grainger store or look in the Grainger or McMaster/Carr catalogs or websites. Or, any decent machine shop could weld a properly threaded bung on to the header for you and not blow your wallet up. $20-40 bucks probably. Grainger aint exactly like Walmart, i think i have only seen one Grainger store, ever. I will admit that if you really wanted to, you could probably find a plug online without to much effort and in the OPs case he might just have to do that or, like you said, take it to a machine shop and have them turn one out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codymanche Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 I just might have to or do it myself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche1 Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Check lowes npt is usually a plumbing thread maybe rent a pipe threader or weld on a piece of npt then a coupler Theres always a way think outside of the box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codymanche Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 Yea I gotta find something tho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Or.... Get far, far away from Commifornia... No more EGR! haha. :wavey: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codymanche Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 I wish I'm in the military don't really have a choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 it is not a standard size. it is not any npt that is readily available. see my prior post... i took it to every place that sold something that sold something with threads. it is tapered, but i don't recall the threads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 see my prior post... i took it to every place that sold something that sold something with threads. Same story here, 7 stores total, most of them specialty stores. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Same story here, 7 stores total, most of them specialty stores.I even took it to the stealership and 3 different exhaust shops. Most wanted to just weld it up. I would think your best option if required to keep the egr would be to go strip a few extra fittings from the JY, I couldn't' imagine them charging very much for it. Maybe you could then get a few of the egr tubes too that way you could cut and bend a few until one actually fits. I tried to reuse my egr with the dynamax, cut them then couldn't sleeve it due to odd size and the exhaust shop couldn't match it nor any steel shops. Then we tried to weld it end to end, but the steel was so brittle that we kept burning through, set the welder down really really low got one made then managed to fold the friggin thing over during install. So I ended up plugging it. Other issue I'm still having with my dyna max headers is the cup joint in the y. I didnt want to weld it as there was no flex joint and no doughnut connection. The clamps they gave don't pinch it hard enough with the flex it goes through (i have new motor and tranny mounts). SO I took it apart and tried some of that exhaust clay and clamped it and drilled it and installed a screw. That lasted about a month maybe two before I got a slight leak around them again. I've kinda given up on it, maybe in several months I'll break down and pull the header off again and make a doughnut flange connection, or maybe weld it solid and ad an expansion/flex piece where the exhaust cross sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codymanche Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 I was just going to weld it up all the way on the pieces. But still trying to figure some thing out for the egr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 I had two issues with the EGR tube and the Dynomax header: 1-tube would not line up properly. I cut the tube, threaded the two pieces into place with a sleeve that fit over the two cut ends, tacked it into place then removed it and welded the sleeve on. 2-the threaded compression fitting would bottom out in the header bung before the tube tightened. Added a washer into the bung so the tube would bottom out higher allowing the fitting to tighten and compress the tube onto the washer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 I was just going to weld it up all the way on the pieces. But still trying to figure some thing out for the egr you talking about on the intake???? real simple piece of metal. get gasket drill and replace egr valve http://comancheclub.com/topic/31127-egr-valvetubeswitch-elimination/?hl=egr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 here's a source that says its 22mm http://comancheclub.com/topic/32299-egr-valve/?hl=egr&do=findComment&comment=326447 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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