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Anyone replaced a 4.0 cylinder head? Oem vs aftermarket

Possibly a perfromance head and manufactures known

Any ideas

The only aftermarket head is an aluminum head from Hesco which is a ridiculous $2,000. All other heads will be rebuilt OEM heads.

 

Odessa/Clearwater does good work and is inexpensive.

http://myworld.ebay.com/odessa*cylinderhead

 

If you want a performance head then Cleggs has one rebuilt for that purpose.

http://www.cleggengine.com/jeep-4-0l-stage-3-ported-head-w-oversized-valves.html

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7120 is the "best" of the jeep 4.0 heads, you will find some who say that the 0331 head is a fraction better, but its track record as extremely prone to cracking far outweighs any minute advantages it has over the 7120, if any at all. But like Alexia said the only TRUE after market head is the all aluminum one, but i can think of A LOT of other things i can buy for that kind of money.

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Why wouldn't it be plug and play???

Intake ports were moved a bit, basically canceling out any performance gains from the head itself.

 

To see anything with an HO head on a Renix block, you'd need the HO intake as well, or get the ports matched.

 

IIRC, the restrictive aspects are going to be the terrible Renix intake, and possibly any exhaust issues.  I'd worry about those before tackling the head.

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OK... it's just a matter of definitions then.  Sorry.  Plug-n-play to me is... will it fit and will it function? Are there any mods needed to make it fit?  No to both.  I agree, it won't perform as well as it could.

 

Edit...Plug-n-play to me is... will it fit and will it function? Are there any mods needed to make it fit?  No to both.  I messed that up... should read yes to the first and no to the second. 

Edited by Stacks
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OK... it's just a matter of definitions then.  Sorry.  Plug-n-play to me is... will it fit and will it function? Are there any mods needed to make it fit?  No to both.  I agree, it won't perform as well as it could.

 

 

Sooo, you are willing to change the head, but do not want to change the intake or exhaust?  :hmm:

 

 

FYI, you can use a 7120 head AND the 99+ intake and still keep you renix exhaust man/header. There are a few modificiations, like TPS and fuel lines, but other than that its pure bolt on. Make sure gasket match for the INTAKE. Also look for a 7120 head that is drilled and tapped for the temp sender/sensor, its located in the far back driver's side.

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All I'm trying to get at is that the HO head itself IS in fact plug and play onto a RENIX block.  It could easily be misleading saying it isn't  to someone with less knowledge than yourselves.  It will bolt right on BUT to get the most out of it a different intake or port matching is necessary as well as optimizing the exhaust.  On my build thread I have just installed the '99 intake, Clifford headers and new injectors in an attempt to improve what you know to be difficiencies and I have learned are deficiencies. I learn more each time I come to this forum and I am most grateful to have found this place.  Maybe I'm being too nitpicky.  If I am I apologize.  Just attempting to be the most clear that I/we can be to help all the new visitors that are looking for answers, etc. 

 

Thanks,

 

Larry

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 On my build thread I have just installed the '99 intake,

 

Thanks,

 

Larry

 

 

I just finished doing this on mine, but i can't figure out what to do about power steering. With every other acc on the block being Renix how do you add PS? My current pump is from a 99 wj and it bolts right up to the intake but i have no way to tighten the belt. The 99 hydralic lines were a perfect match to the Renix steering box as well.

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I just finished doing this on mine, but i can't figure out what to do about power steering. With every other acc on the block being Renix how do you add PS? My current pump is from a 99 wj and it bolts right up to the intake but i have no way to tighten the belt. The 99 hydralic lines were a perfect match to the Renix steering box as well.

I used the adjuster from a Cherokee, swapped the smooth faced pulley on the adjuster for a grooved one and got a longer belt.  Take a look at the last photo in my build thread.  http://comancheclub.com/topic/33955-89-mj-work-truckdd-to-dd-and-4-wheeling-whenever/   I got a 4 inch longer belt but you could also use a 3 inche longer one.  The adjuster works backwards from the Cherokee so you will have to leverage the adjuster to tension the belt.  Hope that helps!!

 

Larry

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Use the 97 and up power steering bracket, delete the existing idler pulley, then get the 97-01 belt and route it as in this thread:

 

http://comancheclub.com/topic/31174-manifold-upgrade-vs-serpentine-belt/?hl=belt+routing&do=findComment&comment=315028

 

 

I will check in on this, but for now i happened to discover a very fast and dirty solution.

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No, course not.  :thumbsup:   It's just real simple to not re-engineer something like this when it's real easy mimic how the factory did it. Sometimes the factory gets it right (not always) but in this case it's a solid and improved setup with the new manifold using the power steering parts it was made for. That being said, I was hard-headed to make the new manifold work with the original early HO (and Renix) PS pump bracketry, and I did. Lots of machining, close tolerances, but it did work fine. But it was a major PITA to do and not worth the effort. Pics:

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Went back to the yard and picked up the better engineered 96+ pump bracketry, idler pulley, and a new WJ 04 pump for it's increased pressure to compliment the newly installed ZJ quick ratio box. However, if you have a "a very fast and dirty solution", would love to see it.

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No, course not.  :thumbsup:   It's just real simple to not re-engineer something like this when it's real easy mimic how the factory did it. Sometimes the factory gets it right (not always) but in this case it's a solid and improved setup with the new manifold using the power steering parts it was made for. That being said, I was hard-headed to make the new manifold work with the original early HO (and Renix) PS pump bracketry, and I did. Lots of machining, close tolerances, but it did work fine. But it was a major PITA to do and not worth the effort. Pics:

 

 

 

Went back to the yard and picked up the better engineered 96+ pump bracketry, idler pulley, and a new WJ 04 pump for it's increased pressure to compliment the newly installed ZJ quick ratio box. However, if you have a "a very fast and dirty solution", would love to see it.

 

 

 

You just had me a little worried with that one word response.  ;)   If i can find the money/time i will definately look into getting the 96 setup. Do you know if 96 is the only year? Can it be off of a grand or cherokee only? 4.0 obviously.

 

There are 3 bolts that hold the pump to intake. I put the top right bolt in place and pulled the bottom of the pump over far enough so that another bolt could be put in yet NOT go through the bracket. Instead of relying on one bolt to pivot and hold the pump in place, the second bolt acts as a physical stopper while the top bolt hold the pump on. To be honest it actually works great, belts tight and all pulleys line up. :D  I'll take pictures tomorrow.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Sbpunk

Sorry to drag up an older thread but I'm going to be digging into the renix engine for the first time in the next couple days. Just wanted a clear answer right quick. 

 

On a Renix 4.0 you can use a HO head IF you use a 99+ intake (or any HO intake), HO exhaust manifold but you can still use a renix TB bored out 60mm or so? 

 

The only problem is running the power steering? Sorry if these are dumb questions but its late and I'm a pretty simple guy. I have a 98 XJ ill probably be swapping parts from. 

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Most of what you got is right, (ANY 4.0 head is a direct bolt on for ANY 4.0 block) except for the TB. Unless you use the old renix intake or you make your own custom adapter you will have to use the HO throttle body, bored out is simply up to you. The Renix TPS has to be adapted to the HO throttle body, its actually quite easy and cheap if you use my adapter, check the DIY section. And as for the power steering according to Hornbrod "96+ pump bracketry, idler pulley" should be a direct bolt on, even with the 99 intake and Renix block.

 

This is your shopping list. . . 

 

7120 cast head. (look for one with a drilled and tapped temp sender in the far right hand corner)

 

99+ intake manifold (looks like a squid or a horseshoe)

 

Renix Header (cause its the only one with an O2 bung, i think)

 

63mm Bored out HO Throttle body (look up Leigh Performance Machine) 

 

TPS adapter (Hesco has one for $150 :eek:   Or you can make one of mine for about a $1.00, your choice ;) )

 

96+ power steering pump, bracketry, and idler pulley (not sure if it matters XJ, WJ, ZJ)

 

 

Ftpiercecracker

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