UNL1MTD Posted March 15, 2007 Share Posted March 15, 2007 Name - Tetanus Specs: '89 Comanche ShortBox 2.5L / AX5 / AMC 231 HP D30/D35 with 4.10s Manual Steering The Brakes: During the test drive they were ok, but started to fade. When I got it in the driveway they were gone. Shortly after it started pissing fluid and I realized a line had rusted through. I guess the pressure from the MC blew it out. I plan on doing an XJ brake swap, getting rid of the MJs rear proportioning valve and the front metering valve. Notice the Fluid Catch- The Rust: I knew about some of the rust in the cab, but I decided to gut the interior and find out what the real condition of floor was. :? I'm wire wheeling the heck out of it for now. Going to weld in some patches (going to be ugly). Then do some rust treatment. Then Herculine the cab. The Exterior Rust is at a lower priority as it will pass inspection, but it will eventually get the same treatment minus the Herculiner. Driver's Floor Board- Passenger's Floor Board The Steering: The MJ has manual steering which has got be appreciating Unl1mtd's power steering, I about ripped the wheel off when I drove it today because I was over compensating. I'm planning on doing a power swap; pump, box, lines, linkage. I'm also going to be replace the ends on most of the links, because they just feel shot. The Suspension: I plan on doing a factory TJ suspension swap from something '03+ that I get on the cheap. The rear will probably stay as it is until I can gather funds to buy OEM replacements (150 a spring) or I might rebuild the leaf packs. I know the MJ eye to eye measurement is longer than XJs so there isn't a lot of options here. But the bottom line is that this one isn't getting a big lift. I'm an active forum user on NovaJeepers.com and will have my build mirrored on their site. I also have a running WTB thread over there. If you guys see any place where I'm going astray, please chime in. I also drive a Patriot Blue '05 TJ LWB, which is my wheeler. The MJ is going to be more of a work truck, I bought it with the intention to get it inspected, then use it to help clear 2/3 of an acre of woods. -Sean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted March 15, 2007 Share Posted March 15, 2007 You didn't happen to buy that from a guy around Charlottesville, did you? If so, I know who sold it to ya....I was gonna buy it but the boss said no way. I'm right down the road from you :cheers: If you want to build that thing on the cheap (money, not quality) c'mon down and I'll take you to the junkyards. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UNL1MTD Posted March 16, 2007 Author Share Posted March 16, 2007 You didn't happen to buy that from a guy around Charlottesville, did you? If so, I know who sold it to ya....I was gonna buy it but the boss said no way. I'm right down the road from you :cheers: If you want to build that thing on the cheap (money, not quality) c'mon down and I'll take you to the junkyards. Jeff I did get it from the guy in Charolettsville. 500 bucks, so even though every day I find more and more things wrong, it aint too bad. I gutted the interior yesterday to find more rust. I charged the battery overnight, now she just clicks when I go to turn it over. Almost like there is a short at the starter. The thing thats wierd is that it started 4 times the day I bought it after an initial jump. I do want to build on the Cheap, right now I'm trying to make a big decision in wheter or not to use this one as a parts truck and get another one thats 2wd. Definitely hit up some junkyards eventually though! -Sean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 clean up the battery connections, and make sure the cables aren't corroded at all. common problem with the starter clicking and it not starting, happens to me every once in a while i just hit the connections lightly or move em around a bit i love the name of this project... how appropriate haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 You have your work cut out for you!! Its a VERY worthwhile endavor!! Good luck with it, CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 I have to go to Rhoadesville either sometime this weekend, or on my way back from PA next weekend, to p/u a D30 and a 242 from a guy. If you're gonna be around wrenching on it, I might could stop by and give you a hand. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UNL1MTD Posted March 16, 2007 Author Share Posted March 16, 2007 I have to go to Rhoadesville either sometime this weekend, or on my way back from PA next weekend, to p/u a D30 and a 242 from a guy. If you're gonna be around wrenching on it, I might could stop by and give you a hand. Jeff I think I'll be running brake hardlines and replacing hoses for the PCV system in the engine on Sunday. Also be playing with the rust whenever I get a free moment. Hell, I'll probably blow off the girlfriend and tinker with it on Saturday too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UNL1MTD Posted March 16, 2007 Author Share Posted March 16, 2007 I also need to figure out how to free the tailgate. Currently the handle is broken off inside of the tailgate. 5 minutes and a big screwdriver didn't yield anyresults last night in the rain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 Remove the cover plate on the inside of the gate, behind the handle area (3 torx screws). There's a scissors-type mechanism, and the two arms attach to to rods that run thru the 'gate to the latches. Squeeze the arms together and it should pop open. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 With my first MJ I had to reach in with my finger to try to grab those little bars one at a time. What a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 i just stuck the screw driver in the ends by the latches, pryed the latches upen while pulling back on the gate. one side, then the other side. all done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UNL1MTD Posted March 16, 2007 Author Share Posted March 16, 2007 So i removed the three trox bolts (T35), then pulled the mechanism out from the tailgate as far as it would go. Found that one side is attached still and the other is not. The side that is attached still releases fine when I pull it, thats a bonus. I started to try the other sides rod, but I was losing light and the rain was freezing cold, so after 5 minutes of fishing with magnet and grabby tool .. I gave up. The MJ won this round, but I'll be back when the rain stops. Quick Question: Are the rods that connect the handle latch mechanism to the release point made out of metal or are they some type of fabric? Just curius if the magnet is a good approach or not. -Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 17, 2007 Share Posted March 17, 2007 magnet should work. easiest way tho is to tip the tailgate upside down to find them. kinda moot in your case :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UNL1MTD Posted March 17, 2007 Author Share Posted March 17, 2007 magnet should work. easiest way tho is to tip the tailgate upside down to find them. kinda moot in your case :P I'll just roll the truck to get that rod out ... where is Bill Egvall "here's your sign!" Actually that gives me a good idea, i can jack up that side of the truck, maybe enough to do something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 17, 2007 Share Posted March 17, 2007 won't work. i said upside down because it will dangle down to the top (shallower end) then. you'd have to be sideways to do it. take a huge flathead screwdriver and slide it into the latch on the pass. side between the gate and the bed. try and slide it with that. or keep tryin what you're doin. either way ya gotta get it popped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UNL1MTD Posted March 20, 2007 Author Share Posted March 20, 2007 well i started work on the new MJ. First thing I tried doing was fix the leaking brake line. Its the hardline going from a T junction to the rear proportioning valve. Its a real small line, maybe 12"s or so. Anyway, darn thing is frozen in place. I PB blastered it all day Sunday and it just wouldn't budge. I haven't done hardlines before so I wonder if I'm missing something. Its taking a 3/8" wrench ont he T junction side and a 1/2" on the proportioning valve side. Any body got a tip for me? I need brakes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 When I'm replacing a hardline, I usually cut the bad line right at the nut and then use a socket. If your new truck is anything line my MJs, be prepared to replace more. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UNL1MTD Posted March 20, 2007 Author Share Posted March 20, 2007 When I'm replacing a hardline, I usually cut the bad line right at the nut and then use a socket. If your new truck is anything line my MJs, be prepared to replace more. :( good tip, i'll give that one a try tomorrow afternoon. I'm thinking this will just be my first in many hardline replacements, figuring after each test drive I'm going to blow a line. :ack: I need to replace the ebrake main cable aswell. I got a spare out of my parts truck. Any gotchas when doing this? Looks fairly straight forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 Dunno. I don't have a single working one on any of my MJs. Vehicle inspections must suck. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 2nd on the cut and socket thing. Only way I could get my lines off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 how about one o' them thar wrenches they make for takin lines off? i got me sum o' them and they done did me good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 The flared wrenches work fine for tightening, but I've never had much luck getting rusted lines to budge. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 If your finding rusted lines, I would suggest you just COMPLETELY replace that line. There are spots that are hard to see, so its safe to assume there could be rust there as well.... After all... it is your brakes, right?? CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UNL1MTD Posted March 20, 2007 Author Share Posted March 20, 2007 If your finding rusted lines, I would suggest you just COMPLETELY replace that line. There are spots that are hard to see, so its safe to assume there could be rust there as well.... After all... it is your brakes, right?? CW I completely agree with you. Its just that the ones that are currently leaking get the highest priority. This MJ seriously doesn't have much rust at all. Giving the brake lines a once/twice over only showed 2 areas of concern. Right now I just gotta get them working so I can get it off the chalking blocks so I can move it in and out of the garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UNL1MTD Posted March 21, 2007 Author Share Posted March 21, 2007 When I'm replacing a hardline, I usually cut the bad line right at the nut and then use a socket. If your new truck is anything line my MJs, be prepared to replace more. :( good tip, i'll give that one a try tomorrow afternoon. I'm thinking this will just be my first in many hardline replacements, figuring after each test drive I'm going to blow a line. :ack: I need to replace the ebrake main cable aswell. I got a spare out of my parts truck. Any gotchas when doing this? Looks fairly straight forward. Cutting the lines and getting a 6 sided socket on there did the trick. Just need the right fittings and I should have me some breaks come tomorrow. Removing the ebrake cable is cake. Only hard part is having to remove the interior first. Otherwise on each end there is just a pressure clip which needs 3 prongs depresssed and it slides out through the cab and out underneath the truck. Started the removale of the front grille and passenger fender, got hung up on a tucked out of the way 7mm bolt at the center bottom of the grille. Ran out of light taking the bumper off to gain access. I'm hoping to fix my electrical problems and replace the damaged sheet metal while its off. Why did jeep use those clippy things instead of nuts? Everyone of those buggers is breaking off on the second turn, so frustrating. Got the parts MJ running around its own power, battery cables needed a good cleaning with baking soda and a wire brush. She starts healthy now and is finally out of the driveway and in the neighbors yard. :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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