wvzj Posted September 18, 2014 Author Posted September 18, 2014 The leads for the light bar were ran in front of the battery through a hole to the front of the radiator.
wvzj Posted September 18, 2014 Author Posted September 18, 2014 My next project is gonna be the WJ booster upgrade, and finally get the ZJ proportioning valve installed for the 8.8 discs. I am also gonna do away with the rear prop valve and bend new lines and install some extended braided stainless front and rear lines. I also have a JCR rear bumper sitting in the garage waiting for the Miller to get fired up.
ftpiercecracker1 Posted September 20, 2014 Posted September 20, 2014 How did the BBs work out for ya? I bought some just tonight to try on mine. I have read mixed reviews on their legitimacy. 2000 per tire is a helluva lot of BBs :eek: My tires are not that big (31s), but no matter what i have done it has never ridden 'smooth'. There has always been some kind of subtle vibration or shimmy. I think it has to do with cheap tires, old probably bent rims, and tired u-joints.
HOrnbrod Posted September 20, 2014 Posted September 20, 2014 The leads for the light bar were ran in front of the battery through a hole to the front of the radiator. Looks great. I think I would have cut out and spliced all that extra wire in the harness though. :thumbsup:
wvzj Posted September 21, 2014 Author Posted September 21, 2014 The leads for the light bar were ran in front of the battery through a hole to the front of the radiator. Looks great. I think I would have cut out and spliced all that extra wire in the harness though. :thumbsup: I would if I knew I was going to keep it on there. I may put it on my ZJ. :thumbsup:
wvzj Posted October 16, 2014 Author Posted October 16, 2014 I tinkered around on the manche a little more, I finished the WJ booster, put in a ZJ proportioning valve for the rear discs on the 8.8, and got rid of the rear proportioning valve. I also redid all the lines on the 8.8 and used 2 rear right rubber lines coming off the calipers instead of the factory left one that has the Y that goes to the frame. FYI jegs sells a brake line kit with tubing that is powdercoated that is real clean looking.
wvzj Posted October 16, 2014 Author Posted October 16, 2014 On the booster I used a 1/4" spacer and bent the firewall lip up just a hair. I did not have to move the washer bottle any at all. Having done both the WJ booster on this MJ and a 96 booster on a previous MJ I had it seems like the WJ booster stops a little better. Either way they are both a substantial increase over stock braking.
wvzj Posted April 2, 2015 Author Posted April 2, 2015 It has been awhile since I updated, been busy with the new little man. About a month ago I tied up some loose ends of the PO when he did the 4wd swap. A hi-pinion non disco front axle was swapped in rendering the vacuum indicator switch inoperable. I found the wiring in the engine bay under the coolant tank, two black wires with red tracers going into a bullet connector. This is you power for the switch. The pigtail Napa p#EC152 has 2 leads a pos and neg, so I used a good ground on the firewall for it and put a male bullet connector on my pos side. Once i ran my wiring in a loom to the t-case I solder and heat shrunk my wires to the pigtail. Next i removed the old vacuum switch and installed the new one Napa# FWD26 with a new #35 o-ring which it didn't come with.
wvzj Posted April 2, 2015 Author Posted April 2, 2015 Plugged the connector to the switch, turned the manche on and put her in 4wd and... Below are the parts I used. Pigtail and NP231 switch from Napa EC152 and FWD26, both were non stock items although I do believe Advanced Auto stocks the switch. The o-ring for the switch is a #35 which I found in the plumbing section at Home Depot. It is only 1/16" thick and would not match up with anything in my O-ring kit
wvzj Posted April 2, 2015 Author Posted April 2, 2015 I finally got a chance today to put my bored throttle body on from strokedjeep.com. I don't have any pics of it before I put it on except on my phone, I will see if I can get them uploaded later. While I had the TB off I went ahead and remove the EGR valve and EGR tube. I got a block off plate from Route 66 customs for $20 shipped with a gasket and new allen head bolts. I used Dodge Cummins oil drain plugs with high temp sealant to plug off the intake and exhaust ports where the EGR tube was.
wvzj Posted April 2, 2015 Author Posted April 2, 2015 A couple of months ago I found some NOS Mopar TPS sensors on flea bay. I picked up 2 for a little over $50 and installed one and adjusted it for the new bored TB and have one for a spare. I also got a Rusty's intake tube and slapped on an AFE Pro Dry filter 21-30018.
wvzj Posted April 2, 2015 Author Posted April 2, 2015 I haven't taken her out for a drive yet, but the throttle did seam more responsive just from goosing it in the garage. I might make a splash guard for the filter. I also want to replace the o2 sensor, and I have some pipe laying around so I may attempt to make a new down pipe to eliminate the crush. If not I will just take it to the performance shop up the road and have them mandrel bend a complete new system, the muffler is looking a little rough anyway. I'd like to do Volvo injectors but I may build a Stroker next winter and I don't want to have to buy sticks twice.
wvzj Posted April 2, 2015 Author Posted April 2, 2015 Here is a pic of the bored TB I stole from cruiser, there is a big difference. Jeff did a great job and was very easy to work with.
Kickinmule Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 Your soa, but what lift you Runnin? Height? I like the height and keepin the factory flares.
Kickinmule Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 Oh and gears with the auto, happy with what your runnin? DD, crawlin, mudder? I'm gonna eventually drop the aw4 into my chief and add a lift, just curious as to your rigs setup.
wvzj Posted April 2, 2015 Author Posted April 2, 2015 Your soa, but what lift you Runnin? Height? I like the height and keepin the factory flares.Right now it has saggy 3" Rustys coils with 2" spacers all installed by the po with Teraflex lowers and JKS uppers. It has a slight rake. I have some new Rock Krawler coils but I'm gonna wait to put them on when I long arm it hopefully this winter. It's manageable with 3.55 and 33's. I am slowly gathering parts to go 4.56 with a Detroit in the rear and a c-clip eliminator. it's a slow build process for the wifey. It's a toy she drives to work a few times a month but wants her own wheeler and she doesn't want the ZJ on 35s. Trust me I have tried every trick I know to give her the grand and let me wheel the MJ but no dice. She thinks the manche is hers, but the title says otherwise haha
Kickinmule Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 What's hers is hers and what's yours is y'all's! Yep leanin to soa and 4:56 so far. I've gotta housekeeper holdin my pocketbook now goin on 29 years.
wvzj Posted April 2, 2015 Author Posted April 2, 2015 That's one thing I can't complain about, she has never said anything about the money I spend on the Jeeps. What scares her is the snappy tool truck!
Kickinmule Posted April 3, 2015 Posted April 3, 2015 Scentsy, Mary Kay, Super Nails, BOGO(anywhere), Jewelry party, ok,ok thats good...
wvzj Posted April 3, 2015 Author Posted April 3, 2015 I see you live in Texas, you don't happen to work in the patch do ya?
Kickinmule Posted April 3, 2015 Posted April 3, 2015 No sir. Wife and I own a retail store in Canton.
wvzj Posted December 24, 2020 Author Posted December 24, 2020 It has been 5+ years since an update wow!! A lot has changed, c clip eliminator for the 8.8, and 4.56 gears. Durabak in the bed. JCR rear bumper. Warn M8000 that I picked up used. Added an interior guage for my OBA. New RE shocks. Made a mount for a Hi-Lift in the bed.
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