ChiefJosh Posted March 9, 2007 Posted March 9, 2007 So, I'm about ready to weld on my new spring perches, but I thought I'd double check to make sure I was thinking correctly about this. On my old D35, I set it up on some jackstands and put a level on the spring perch. With the spring perches level, and the degree finder placed on the surface of the diff that the cover mounts to, I get a reading of between 10 and 11*. So, if I do the same with my new mounts, level them with the diff case at 11* or so, I should be okay right? I do not have a slip yoke, just using the stock driveshaft, so I do not want to tip it towards the t-case correct?
JOMJ87 Posted March 9, 2007 Posted March 9, 2007 The pinion should sit parrallel to the transfer case output. Cole
ChiefJosh Posted March 9, 2007 Author Posted March 9, 2007 If it makes any differance, my old axle was the D35, my new one is an 8.25 out of a 99 XJ. So what is the easiest way to double check to make sure the axle pinion is parallel to the t-case output shaft?
JOMJ87 Posted March 9, 2007 Posted March 9, 2007 Take a degree finder and check the degree at the Transfer case output and then do the same on the axles Pinion. OR you can take the old axle and make the pinion level to the ground and then take and messure the degree on the perches. IIRC 10-11 is about right though I'm sure someone Knows for sure. Cole
feerocknok Posted March 9, 2007 Posted March 9, 2007 The pinion should sit parrallel to the transfer case output. Cole I've always assumed that the pinion should point at the t-case ouput. Like: T-case ----------- ...........................\\ pinion ^300" of lift, but I think the idea is there. Have I been mistaken?
87manche Posted March 9, 2007 Posted March 9, 2007 the pinion should point directly at the t-case only if you've got a SYE/cardan style driveshaft. Otherwise the two u-joints must share the same angle, but in oposite directions, so the u-joint harmonics cancel out.
Rokhound Posted March 9, 2007 Posted March 9, 2007 i have a question on the same page so I don't want to hijack this thread but i read some where that you could take a front drive shaft and make it work on the rear using the two joint is this true and I will start a new thread if this goes of on its own just wanted to ask. watson
Oizarod115 Posted March 9, 2007 Posted March 9, 2007 i have a question on the same page so I don't want to hijack this thread but i read some where that you could take a front drive shaft and make it work on the rear using the two joint is this true and I will start a new thread if this goes of on its own just wanted to ask. watson yeah, some people get a SYE and have a front driveshaft lengthened to work. others just buy a new tomwoods or something.
feerocknok Posted March 10, 2007 Posted March 10, 2007 87manche and Twisty, definitely did not know that and I'm putting a Cherokee axle under my truck tomorrow (welding on new spring perches). Thank you very much!
JOMJ87 Posted March 10, 2007 Posted March 10, 2007 If you do point the pinion at the Tcase output and don't have a double crdon or SYE it will destroy one of the ujoints on one of the end quickly. And that is a great pic of a SYE D Shaft Cole
Pete M Posted March 10, 2007 Posted March 10, 2007 i have a question on the same page so I don't want to hijack this thread but i read some where that you could take a front drive shaft and make it work on the rear using the two joint is this true and I will start a new thread if this goes of on its own just wanted to ask. watson If you're asking about running identical shafts front and rear, that won't work on our trucks because the rear shaft is much longer than the front.
Rokhound Posted March 10, 2007 Posted March 10, 2007 If you're asking about running identical shafts front and rear, that won't work on our trucks because the rear shaft is much longer than the front. no i was talking about just CV joint using it and making the rest or something like that.
DirtyComanche Posted March 10, 2007 Posted March 10, 2007 If you're asking about running identical shafts front and rear, that won't work on our trucks because the rear shaft is much longer than the front. no i was talking about just CV joint using it and making the rest or something like that. That's what my rear is. Uh, don't try lengthening a rear yourself. It might vibe a bitsy.
CEThomas Posted March 11, 2007 Posted March 11, 2007 How much can you be off? Quick check today and I am off a lot :cry: Charles
Pete M Posted March 11, 2007 Posted March 11, 2007 On U-joint angles? Well, if my truck is any indicator, you can be off a lot and still not have vibes. The axle (SOA) points straight up towards the t-case, but I don't have a double-cardon d-shaft, just a regular one. Although, I do have the rubber isolator version. I replaced the u-joints when I did the buildup and I can't sense any vibes from it. :dunno:
DirtyComanche Posted March 11, 2007 Posted March 11, 2007 How much can you be off? Quick check today and I am off a lot :cry: Charles Lots. That common chart is mostly BS. Yesh, you should try to have the joints cancel each other. The reality is the velocity change you'll see in most of our applications will not cause an issue.
CEThomas Posted March 11, 2007 Posted March 11, 2007 It has u-joints. Well the axle is set at 90deg. using a level the trans is at what ever angle it's at. I also have the rubber isolator version drive shaft. Also is the u-joint in the 2x4 different then the 4x4 DS? I picked up a new 4x4 u-joint to replace the old one (2x4) and it's not as big :nuts: Charles
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