OhReally Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 I'm getting a Dana 44 from an XJ and my question is; will it bolt in under the spring like the XJ or is it completely different ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue88Comanche Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 the spring perches will need to be relocated. and the XJ shock mounts won't work for the MJ as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 You will need to move the perches Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue88Comanche Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 but the axle width is the same Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhReally Posted October 29, 2012 Author Share Posted October 29, 2012 Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainman Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 Grind off the old pads and anything else not needed and clean it all off. Then get this... http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/D44SS.html And youll be set. :) Gonna need longer shocks too. Unless of course your putting it above the leaves and i just didnt read what you said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirteatr717 Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 Get these perches, http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance/312/P4120074/10002/-1?parentProductId=747051 theyre like 18 bucks shipped and goto a local spring shop and get ubolts made up for around 40 bucks and if youre welding on new shock mounts then buy the shock mounts seperate from ruffstuff or ballistic fab Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 No driveshaft shenanigans? And isnt the 2.5 the most common engine associated with the XJ D44? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainman Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 No driveshaft shenanigans? And isnt the 2.5 the most common engine associated with the XJ D44? Good point. Supposedly the U joints are different. But thats something I'm sure he would figure out as he does the job. Prob need adapter joint, or when driveline gets shortened have them put the proper yoke on that end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 U-joints will be the same, Dana 1310 series. But since the OP didn't say which year or transmission or even if it's going into an MJ SOA or SUA (I'm not sure) who knows about the driveshaft length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue88Comanche Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 forgot to add that the drive shaft will need to be shortened by 1 inch as the d44 about is 1 inch longer than the D35.<br /><br />assuming you keep SUA. I am not sure about SOA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Don't ASSume. :yes: Read the first post. Who knows? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 I think they saying about assuming is that it makes an @$$ out of U and ME. :yes: And how does one go about having the driveshaft shortend? Is that something that has to be done done by a pro? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 A good welder can cut and splice a driveshaft. But balancing it after is the problem. So for sure yes, it should be done by a specialized shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 With my SOA the factory drive shaft ended up being perfect with the D44 swap. The lift made it a bit short and the D44 put it back to about stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainman Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 With my SOA the factory drive shaft ended up being perfect with the D44 swap. The lift made it a bit short and the D44 put it back to about stock. Thats good to know. I was told in my thread that the yokes are different and i needed the matching dirveshaft. So i got it. Either way i have both shafts now. So ill figure that out when I'm doing my SOA. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 If you don't have any lift, i guess the eaisest thing to do would be to snag the driveshaft along with the axle. :dunno: Or do cherokee shafts not swap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 XJ shafts are way too short. If he's not lifting, the best bet is going to be having his cut down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kernel Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 everybody has you on the right path. to save a little coin grab the spring plates. that ruffstuff kit is what you need but it can be pieced together cheaper but.... and don't forget about gear ratio if your 4wd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 No driveshaft shenanigans? And isnt the 2.5 the most common engine associated with the XJ D44? Still uses 1310 series u joints, so your driveshaft will be fine as far as that goes. The nose on the D44 is about an inch or so longer than a D35, so you might *possibly* have to have your driveshaft shortened a bit if you don't lift your truck. And I doubt the majority of D44s came behind a 4 cylinder. Why would they put the heavier duty axle behind the least powerful engine? AFAIK they came with the tow package, which automatically meat 4.0/automatic, or could be ordered separately as a "heavy duty rear axle" on older Cherokees. On Comanches they also came with the Metric Tonne/Big Ton package, but that package was never available on the Cherokee. Newer Cherokees got a 8.25" if no ABS or D35 if ABS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhReally Posted October 30, 2012 Author Share Posted October 30, 2012 Thanks Everyone for your advice.I just picked up the axle and was undecided on soa or sua. I have bought a 88 long bed 4x4 (parts truck or?) that has 33's on it and was going to use its lift.I hear mixed reviews on the soa set up. Mine is a 1990 4.0 5spd 4x4 short bed,so no problems shortening the drive shaft if needed. Should the stock pinion angle work when setting up the axle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Pinion angle depends on type of driveshaft, there is a good diagram floating around somewhere. With a stock style driveshaft, stock pinion angle will be correct. If you go SOA, you would need about 6.5" lift in front to make it look right. In that case you probably also need to lengthen your driveshaft although you may be able to get away with your stock one and a longer slip yoke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mountain Dude Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Tom Woods Driveshafts at http://www.4xshaft.com/ has the diagrams Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flint54 Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 And let me add a tidbit from my experience doing similar. Get yourself a good angle indicator (clinometer), and position everythng under the vehicle as you intend it. Temporarily hook up the driveshaft, lower the vehicle to the expected ride height (bottle jacks under frame). Get all your driveline angles worked out and mark the position of the spring perches before welding. Yes, you can use angle shims for fine adjustment, but get it all close as you can before welding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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