JWARNE Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 Had a leaking injector so to keep my truck from starting on fire I went to replace the o rings on my injectors and fuel rail assemly. I found large deposits of crud in my injector bore holes. How do I clean them without all this crud falling into my intake and running through my motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 Pull the rail off and clean it up on the bench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 funny story, i had the same problem, so i figured using a stick would be THE BEST tool to use to clean out the bores. Need less to say much of the build up ended up falling in to the cylinders. But thats not the funny part, the funny part is that i broke off about a 1/2in of said stick in one of the cylinders. After giving my self a good a** kicking, I prayed to the jeep gods and fired her up. Ran like the champ i knew she was and never missed a beat. need less to say I would not advise using a stick, however i would not freak out if some of it falls in. Find one of those metal pipe cleaners and ream the bore out real well, then wipe as best you can with some kind of cleaning agent. Brake parts cleaner maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 Pull the rail off and clean it up on the bench. I think he means engine side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richasco Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 If the bores are that dirty, then you will have a lot of build-up in the intake and the intake ports in the head. It's probably worth your time to just pull the intake and clean everything. Gook luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWARNE Posted October 7, 2012 Author Share Posted October 7, 2012 I was thinking about using a shop vac to suck up all the $#!& as i scaped it out. Going to clean the bore holes only no motor dissassembly since a rebuild is in the very near future. thanks anyhow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinkrun Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 I was thinking about using a shop vac to suck up all the $#!& as i scaped it out. Going to clean the bore holes only no motor dissassembly since a rebuild is in the very near future. thanks anyhow Sounds like a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 Edit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWARNE Posted October 7, 2012 Author Share Posted October 7, 2012 Sounds like a goggles required job!! Ill will definately try that is the vaccum things doesnt work out. Is this adapter you speak of easily attainable at any parts store? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 I edited because I'm not sure it would work. Yes, you can pressurize the cylinder to change valve seals.......the pressure keeps the valve closed....fitting should be available anywhere. For it to work you'll need to keep the intake valve open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 I was thinking about using a shop vac to suck up all the $#!& as i scaped it out. Going to clean the bore holes only no motor dissassembly since a rebuild is in the very near future. thanks anyhow You'll be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWARNE Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 The vaccum worked great along side a small pick to dislodge the buildup of stuff. Sucked all of it up as it came off then cleaned the bore holes with qtips soaked in carb cleaner did the same in the fuel rail. I did the assembly of the o-rings onto the injectors and fuel pressure regulator then everything into the fuel rail indoors after all the parts had warmed to room temp. With a very small amount of lube the injectors and pressure regulator slipped easlily into the fuel rail. I lubed up the bore holes and bottom o-rings and the whole assembly went in with no problems. My first attempt was outside and it was cold the injectors and o-ring were next to impossible to install into the fuel rail and almost every one tore while pressing into the intake. Lesson Learned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 So, you were fine.. Good job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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