johnny quest Posted September 26, 2012 Posted September 26, 2012 http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3295172301.html
drcomanche Posted September 26, 2012 Posted September 26, 2012 That looks pretty good. I've always thought the cab vents looked out of place on these things, though.
jimoshel Posted September 26, 2012 Posted September 26, 2012 That is dern nice. Wish I hadn't seen it tho. Getting tdeas.
Incommando Posted September 26, 2012 Posted September 26, 2012 This rig has come up before but why on earth would you go through all of that work and leave that junk D35 under the back? Gives me pause as to what else was half-a$$ed. That being said if I had an extra $4k laying around I would be sorely tempted. I would need to see how cobbled together it was in person. For instance: no interior shots.
johnny quest Posted September 26, 2012 Author Posted September 26, 2012 yea id have to go over it real well before even driving it. I'm interested to see how the 'frames' were attached. it looks good from 30 feet, but how bout from 6 inches...
Incommando Posted September 27, 2012 Posted September 27, 2012 yea id have to go over it real well before even driving it. I'm interested to see how the 'frames' were attached. it looks good from 30 feet, but how bout from 6 inches... This. He refers to using the MJ "unibody" in the back instead of correctly calling it a sub-frame. Little things like this may mean nothing our may indicate a total hack job.
relyt120 Posted September 27, 2012 Posted September 27, 2012 Cool but I've always thought that the 4dr looked strange, I wonder if anyone ever did an 2 door xj version with some kind of flip down seat on the back wall for a more extended cab kind of set up, that I would be interested in!
jimoshel Posted September 27, 2012 Posted September 27, 2012 I would like to know how he joined the sheet metal together. In my life I've only met one man who could weld sheet metal and it came out straight, No warps. And he was older than I was. This begs a step by step write up, with pics. Also I agree with Comanche afficionado. 4DR looks weird but they are functional. I have a good running '94XJ 2DR with title. Mix it with one of my MJ without title. Have something different and useful. Naw. Already got 123 started-unfinished projects. Don't need another one.
codymanche Posted September 27, 2012 Posted September 27, 2012 wish i could afford it that's what i call a family ride. but i wouldn't have cut the bed.
johnj92131 Posted September 29, 2012 Posted September 29, 2012 I do not like the shortened short box. Like the idea of starting with a 2 door xj for an extended cab.
jimoshel Posted October 2, 2012 Posted October 2, 2012 Has anyone figured out the rear doors? The 4dr XJ has a cut out at the lower rear for wheel well clearance. It looks like to me that he used the top half of a XJ rear door and the bottom half of a front door and welded them together. Although he could have cut off the lower back corner and welded a piece in. I sent him a email asking about any build data, pics, etc, but never got a reply. It would be nice if he belonged to another Jeep site and posted build pics. Wonder how much Bondo's on that thing. Think it would have been nice if the bed was a foot longer with a longer wheel base.I'm guessing that bed is about 4 ft.
MiNi Beast Posted October 2, 2012 Posted October 2, 2012 I want a 6 door MJ with suicide rear doors! 8)
Incommando Posted October 2, 2012 Posted October 2, 2012 I would like to know how he joined the sheet metal together. In my life I've only met one man who could weld sheet metal and it came out straight, No warps. And he was older than I was. This begs a step by step write up, with pics. Also I agree with Comanche afficionado. 4DR looks weird but they are functional. I have a good running '94XJ 2DR with title. Mix it with one of my MJ without title. Have something different and useful. Naw. Already got 123 started-unfinished projects. Don't need another one. I have seen some really nice work down with the newer "glue" they have to mate body panels. It takes a special tool to recess the original panel & then you slather the adhesive on the new panel and then put the new panel in the recess. Fits like a glove and takes much less filler to smooth over than most people have to use after welding panels together.
Rymanrph Posted October 2, 2012 Posted October 2, 2012 I emailed him just out of curiosity and here's an excerpt from his reply: "The unibody frame rails are actually the same width under the cab so that worked out great. The bed was shorted then the unibodies were grafted to the needed length. The floor was left out for welding. I made the rear door frame and cab cap by cutting the Comanche behind the front A pillar all the way across. The heighth and width were close enough to work with. I used the Comanche door fames and the lower corner of the Comanche doors to build the rear doors. Inside had the original floor section from the Comanche so that seat bolted right in for the back seat."
jimoshel Posted October 2, 2012 Posted October 2, 2012 So howcome you got a reply and I didn't? Pouting,,,Metal glue? Never heard of it, Sounds like something I better check into.
johnny quest Posted October 4, 2012 Author Posted October 4, 2012 Anyone save a pic? I missed it. :???:
expeditionnw Posted November 13, 2012 Posted November 13, 2012 look at that bed gap... I can only imagine the atrosities that truck contains. Mig Welders should have a built-in Blow N' Go.
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