Looking to add a electric fan, need suggestions.

[Zebvance]

looking to put a electric fan in, What should I get?

I have a 1988 Mj with no ac, so it doesn't come with a electric fan just mechanical. My mj will stay under 210 sitting in traffic and about 190 or lower on the highway or crucing around town. but it starts to get above 210 when in really soft sand and its having to work hard to get through it and only averaging about 10-15 mph. basicly I have check thed fan cluch, it is fine and there is no air in the system. I beilev the cooling system is working fine, it just can't pull trough enough air when going about 10 miles per hour at high rpms. I'm on the beach every weekend, so I am looking into putting a electric fan in the location of where the stock electric fan would go if it had ac.

 

SO the question is what should I use, I don't want to spend a bunch on this, maybe under 100$, but I want the most cfm I can get for my money.

 

Also I do not want any junk yard parts.

 

 

I would really like a bolt on kit.

[MJRemi]

For the least amount of cost, find a JY or parts XJ with the auxiliary fan and grab everything related to the fan. Your wire harness should have the required lines inside the harness cover. Get the connectors and the relay and the bolts.

[lostissues]

get the 97+ 10 blade fan, they move the most air out of the aux Cherokee fans.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/97-01-Jeep-Cher ... 638wt_1140

 

hook it up with the same gauge wires it uses for its pigtail that comes on the fan assembly and use a relay. then you can trigger it with the thermostat (not sure exactly how that works) or you can put it on a switch.

[Zebvance]

will It fit on the closed system radiator. Its long and skinny. I guess what I'm asking is what are the dementions

[HOrnbrod]

will It fit on the closed system radiator. Its long and skinny. I guess what I'm asking is what are the dementions

 

Please edit into your signature what model/year/engine/etc. MJ you have so we don't have to guess. Since you say "long and skinny" radiator I ASSume you have the 4.0 I6. If that is the case, then do as lostissues says; purchase the 10-blade electric late model fan. Draws more amps on startup, but pulls about 50% more air than the older square 5-bladers.

 

And I'm not comfortable using aftermarket fans; I'd rather get a used low-mileage fan from the yard than from an offshore marketeer. Who knows what the specs on those things are. :dunno:

[Zebvance]

will It fit on the closed system radiator. Its long and skinny. I guess what I'm asking is what are the dementions

 

Please edit into your signature what model/year/engine/etc. MJ you have so we don't have to guess. Since you say "long and skinny" radiator I ASSume you have the 4.0 I6. If that is the case, then do as lostissues says; purchase the 10-blade electric late model fan. Draws more amps on startup, but pulls about 50% more air than the older square 5-bladers.

 

And I'm not comfortable using aftermarket fans; I'd rather get a used low-mileage fan from the yard than from an offshore marketeer. Who knows what the specs on those things are. :dunno:

 

 

Sure, Sorry about that. Yes I have the 4.0/auto.I want to add the fan to the stock 1 mechanical fan set up also, I would like to hook up the fan on a switch. So the 97-01 fan will fit? It just looks bigger than 12inches in the picture. will I have to modify the shroud or will it slide in fine and fit with no clearance issues. Also What gauge wire should I use to wire it and what size relay?

[Zebvance]

also do you know what kind of cfm that fan puts out?

[HOrnbrod]

This writeup should answer most of your questions:

 

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8342&hilit=fan

[Zebvance]

This writeup should answer most of your questions:

 

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8342&hilit=fan

 

 

thank you for the info, what size relay should I use?

[HOrnbrod]

I'm using standard automotive 30A relays, no problems. Additionally using 25A fuses on the relay load supply 12VDC input via an aux fuse panel.

[Zebvance]

I'm using standard automotive 30A relays, no problems. Additionally using 25A fuses on the relay load supply 12VDC input via an aux fuse panel.

 

 

thanks for the info, I think Ill be ordering that stock fan suggested tonight.

[88MJ-OHV]

Hey Zebvance,

 

Did you order that fan and install it? I am looking for an OEM curved blade style to wire in with a flex-a-lite variable speed controller (since I can't find a SPAL unit anywhere) and I was wondering what the quality is like on those units from amautoparts.

 

Thanks!

[Jeep Driver]

Those controllers suck @$$, I went through three of them on my other truck.

 

I drove the last year with it with no fan at all cause I wasnt' gonna pay another $50 for another POS controller.

 

 

Use OEM sender or run relay off ignition source............trigger wire to any ignition source and when engine in running so is the fan.

 

 

If wiring off sender you still use ignition source as trigger and sender (ground) as secondary trigger.

[Jeep Driver]

SPAL is online and can be sourced.

 

If you have the $140 they are the way to go.......controls both fans and are adjustable and are soft-start.

 

 

BTW the Hayden fans are good.......never had a problem.

[88MJ-OHV]

Awesome feedback thanks. I'm glad I didnt blow the money. I'm sick of dealing with fan issues and I'm more than happy to spend the $140 if the SPAL units are as good as Ive heard. Can they be ordered directly from SPALs website?

 

Thanks!

[Dirteatr717]

I added a 97+ 10 blade not to long ago for the same reason, I didn't need it but for the beach and trails it does help move a lot more air. Check out my build its on one of the last two pages

[ODrab88Mj]

I may be a lil bit late in the game but http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/ has a very clean and easy e-fan setup. Made for the XJ but I am sure you're aware of the similarities between MJ & XJ. A bit pricey though at $225 but it flow an average of about 4300 cfm. Hope this was helpful.

:wrench:

[flint54]

Also running the SPAL unit. Had to resolve an issue with them regarding their temp sensor responding poorly,

but once I switched over to using an OEM sensor, all is well. I plumbed a second OEM sensor into the coolant

hose that feeds the heater control valve, had to also run a ground line. The twin electric fan job really moves

a bunch of air. Why two sensors? I did not want one failed sensor taking out both fans. Get the SPAL

controller, but don't buy their sensor, which, by the way, even they (SPAL) said does not work well in Jeeps.

[88MJ-OHV]

Flint54 what temp sensors are you using? both OEM? Do you have a part number?

 

Id like to do an identical setup with my stock aux fan and the 10" hayden I picked up yesterday. I got fed up searching for the SPAL controller so I got a $33 hayden 3647 adjustable controller that should be almost as good and can control both fans.

[Jerry]

I bought an electric xj fan for peanuts at the wreckers and wired it through a fuse + in cab toggle switch. Works great. Hasn't overheated on hot slow trails since, even when the radiator still leaked (closed system). I did once forget to turn it off and flattened the battery though (need to add an idiot light). If it's not to late already that would be a good way to go to see if an extra fan will help you before beating your wallet on expensive new goodies :wrench:

[flint54]

The original temp sender (that runs the gauge) is unchanged, and first fan

triggers also when AC comes on. The second sender is same as the first

except plumbed into a brass tee fitting I inserted into the heater line. That

sender is 53005309 or 56027012, not sure the difference. I ran #10 wire for

fan, probably overkill, but I, like you, hate the smell of melted harness.

Second sender triggers the SPAL controller. Had to add a ground line, since

sender is variable resistance to ground. For some reason, the SPAL-PWM-V3

seems to now be NLA, which is a shame because the programming permits

you to select triggering temperatures.

[HOrnbrod]

The original temp sender (that runs the gauge) is unchanged, and first fan triggers also when AC comes on. The second sender is same as the first except plumbed into a brass tee fitting I inserted into the heater line. That sender is 53005309 or 56027012, not sure the difference. I ran #10 wire for

fan, probably overkill, but I, like you, hate the smell of melted harness.

Second sender triggers the SPAL controller. Had to add a ground line, since sender is variable resistance to ground. For some reason, the SPAL-PWM-V3 seems to now be NLA, which is a shame because the programming permits you to select triggering temperatures.

 

Curious as to why you needed to add another temp sender in the heater line to trigger the SPAL. I used the existing temp gauge sender for the SPAL and it works great on LO and HI speeds using the settings I programmed into the SPAL. I'm using the Version 1 SPAL PWM.

 

I left the original electric fan alone as is, except to add a dash toggle for emergencies.

[flint54]

Well, I didn't actually "need" to, I just wanted the second fan to have

a completely independent sending unit. I had added the brass fitting

for the SPAL sensor, before learning that their overpriced sensor was

crap. There was a lot of back and forth discussion between myself

and the SPAL engineer before they would supply me the cal data for

their sensor, and then when I demonstrated that the sensor response

was flawed across the temp spectrum they would not warranty it. Their

response was that "they don't always work well in Jeeps". Great controller

though.

[HOrnbrod]

I see your point about the independent sensors. I had to go round and round too with Spal as I used the thermostat housing temp sensor for the ECU as the Spal variable voltage input as they recommended when I first wired mine in. Turned out the Spal needs a certain voltage spread (I forget how much) between the LO and HI switch points, and the ECU temp sensor didn't have enough spread causing spastic LO/HI fan speed switching. Switched the Spal input to the dash gauge temp sensor on the head and it was fine. It is a great controller once you get it set up right.

 

I was a little concerned at first with the 25A fan load limit on the Ver. 1 Spal controller so I load tested a 10-blade fan first before I used it. It pulled right at 20A on startup; closer than I liked. But it's been in there now since 2008 and is still working great. Good product. I did pick up a couple of new spares on Ebay awhile back (ver.1's) though just in case. Looks like they are N/A now..........

[Zebvance]

Wow guys did not know this thread blew back up. Anyway to keep y'all up to date I did order the 97= stock electric fan. I got it in a it fits perfect with out any modifications to my 88.I still have not hooked it up because I'm in the middle of a header and motor mount install. But I ordered a spal fan wiring kit but just the hard line one with out a temp sensor. so I'm going to hook it up to a relay and switch in the cab. I ONLY every have problems with it over heating in the soft sand on the beach, so thats the only time ill need to use it. oh and I overheated with pulling a friend out with my winch. But I was reving it to I'm guessing 2500rpms standing still in park to kep the voltages up a little. Plus I don't want to put that much strain on my little tiny alternator all the time any way.

 

I also just ordered and received some 1979 datsun 240zx louvers. Got them for 14 bucks pretty sweet deal. Any way those should help also.

 

Plus I bought and installed a flow cooler high flow water pump, high flow thermostat,thermostat housing, all new cooling hoses, and I flushed the system and that didn't make a bit of difference on the beach :/. So I hope between the louvers and fan I won't over heat on the beach anymore. and If I do It will be onto a better radiator. Then after that I have no Idea what I'm going to do if it still overheats...