Acceptable rust for a restoration buy?

[Alexia]

What would be considered acceptable rust for buying a MJ for restoration? I have not seen the pictures yet, but the owner is telling me there is light surface rust on the floor. Other than that he is saying there are no dents and the paint is fine.

 

The odd: Engine is pulled, was swapped from a 4 cylinder to 6 cylinder at some point, has an aftermarket sun roof(With a brand new replacement since it leaks), and apparently a bunch of parts.

 

It sounds like the perfect project base since I will be ditching all of the mechanical and interior for a 1997+ XJ conversion. He is asking about $500 for it.

[flint54]

I could be wrong on this, but I don't think MJ's were ever

fitted originally with sunroofs. If that is true, and if your

meaning of restoration is to remain original, this candidate

would be ruled out. Highly recommend you personally inspect

this truck if you're intending to invest a lot of time and

funds on restoration. Beg, borrow or steal a borescope and

look into various openings in the frame rails for flaking

corrosion. Light pitting is fine and expectable, but larger

flakes which indicate significant loss of material are not.

All sheet metal (floors, etc) can be replaced, limited only by

your talent or your wallet. My opinion is that any rust anywhere

means possible rust anywhere else. Therefore, all the other

suspect areas should be scrutinized so you know what you're

likely to deal with down the road rather than surprises.

Rockers, lower firewall, windshield corners, cab corners, wheel

flare mating surfaces, taillight region, lower door and tailgate

seams, etc., all come into play.

 

I have never met a seller who overstated rust. I've also never

seen a restoration candidate vehicle for $500. Having said

all that, it's probably well worth buying if your definition of

restoration is to just make a really great small truck that you

will enjoy for many years.

[Walkenvol]

Since rust inside the cab is typically due to moisture under the carpet from a windshield or other leak, I wouldn't consider it a deal stopper. Depending on the severity of floor rust, it may not be too hard to repair.

 

Rust in rocker panels, around wheel openings, etc would scare me away if I was planning a nice restoration as that type of cancer is rarely completely discovered and removed. A few years later after all your hard work and $$$ rust bubbles start showing up.

[shelbyluvv]

I've also never seen a restoration candidate vehicle for $500.

 

There are numerous members here who have bought rust free running MJs for $500 or less. I have bought 3 so far. They are out there. MJs are not all that hard to find. You just have to get out of the rust belt.

[jimoshel]

At present I have 14 MJ'S. Never paid over $450 for any of them. 11 complete, running, rust free. 1 complete and running but rusty floor boards. 1 complete but not running. 1 kind of complete and kind of runs, sorta, in a half *ssed way. But it;s got good tires on it. Correction. I did pay $600 for a '89 but the bed and cab was full of parts. Ran good.

[87Warrior]

Depending on your location I would venture to guess that is a decent deal. A slightly rusted truck here in KS would be considered mint condition, even if it didn't run...

 

At what point does an MJ have too much rust? When your wallet is empty and the truck isn't finished.

 

It looks like you are thinking about the 97+ swap. Since your truck will pretty much be stripped, this is the opportune time to tackle the rust issues. You can click on my build in my sig to see what I had to deal with.

[jimoshel]

At what point does an MJ have too much rust? When your wallet is empty and the truck isn't finished.

 

Very well put. Hits the nail right on the head.

[flint54]

RE: "At present I have 14 MJ'S. Never paid over $450 for any of them. 11 complete, running, rust free...."

 

Us eastern folks can only dream about what it must be like to live (and buy trucks) in the

low moisture western states.!!

 

I would give $500 without a second thought for a truly rust free, wreck free, MJ,

even without a drive train. I don't think I've ever actually even seen one.

 

To the OP, I hope you find a truck worthy of your efforts, whether it is the one you're

currently considering or another.

[Alexia]

I would give $500 without a second thought for a truly rust free, wreck free, MJ,

even without a drive train. I don't think I've ever actually even seen one.

 

To the OP, I hope you find a truck worthy of your efforts, whether it is the one you're

currently considering or another.

 

The normally minimal floor rust MJs, but otherwise rust free with running components usually start at $2,000 in this area. Then they are all usually 4 cylinders.

 

I am going to make the relatively short trip this weekend to at least check it out. I am not exactly keen on the sun roof piece, but if it looks good I can make it work.

[Blue XJ]

I've also never seen a restoration candidate vehicle for $500.

 

There are numerous members here who have bought rust free running MJs for $500 or less. I have bought 3 so far. They are out there. MJs are not all that hard to find. You just have to get out of the rust belt.

 

I agree, I bought the cab and frame for mine for $50, the cab was rust free.

[glundblad]

I would not consider purchasing anything that has had a hack saw to it.

 

Others would like to shoot me but I wouldnt trust any truck that had a 4 cyl in it and was converted to the 4.0. My understanding is a lot needs replaced including the entire wiring harness. That would be an excellent way to introduce gremlins into the truck that are difficult if not impossible to locate.

 

Regarding the floor boards, there have been many on this forum that have purchased trucks with floor boards rusted away. I would plan on any MJ you purchase needing the floor boards replaced. Then be delighted if that turns out not to be true.

 

don't forget to check for rust behind the fender flairs. Particularly the rear. Those are the ones that are the most dificult to replace.

 

No reason to rush. Locate a 4x4 with minimal rust and a 4.0L.

 

BTW, my truck cost me $500. It had a factory 4.0L, D44 axle with LSD and 80k miles. It had a solid frame and solid floors. The fenders, doors and rockers were all gone however. But it wasnt modified in any way. I would have classified it as a restoration candidate.

[RockMJ]

I have to agree with what everyone else has been saying. I know the thread is over a month old, but I'm curious as to what you decided upon based on seeing the MJ. My MJ was purchased from Ocala, FL about 8 months ago and I paid a good amount for it because of the condition it was in. Dropping 1600 doesnt sound like a lot, but I definitely got a rust free MJ (minus the typical floor spots). With a bit of POR-15, some time and effort and some Herculiner its all new again. I knew going into it that most MJ's have moisture problems under the rug so I was expecting minimal repair. The reason why I snagged mine is because the bed, body, rockers, etc are completely rust free. The Jeep has lived in FL its entire life and it certainly shows. The frame is completely spotless and ive been going through and undercoating what I feel necessary to keep it that way.

 

All in all, what 87Warrior said is the best way to look at it. Too much rust depends on your level of skill, willingness to tackle it, and of course a wallet full of cash. Good luck man, and I hope we can welcome you to the MJ world soon

 

RockMJ